Ok, 3.9 auto. 270k miles. I used as an everyday driver up until 7 months ago. I more less stopped driving it for 7 months, i didn't start it or anything. Got it running again today, but it idles fine in park or neutral but once it goes into drive or reverse the rpms drop and it usually dies. What would cause this and what can i do to fix it?

It has new plugs, wires, coil, rotor, and battery.

known problems include bad O2 sensors, leaking power steering fluid, multiple small leaks in radiator (patched with jb welb).

A few extra tidbits of info. Vehicle will not start if warm. i can only start it when cold or else i gotta wait 20 minutes. Engine also runs extremely rich, more so than it did 7 months ago, and also more so then it ever did (and these are the original O2 sensors with 270K miles on them). I guess the rich mixture is very evident by all the black smoke coming out the exhaust.

Any help on this would be nice, thank you in advance.

edit: forgot to mention that i can drive it around block, but if i come to a stop i gotta add throttle. I tried adjusting the throttle under hood, the only way to keep this from happening is to set idle really really high.

 

You need a new stepper motor, also know as the idle control valve.
Your idle is going to be all jacked up since you messed with it, you will never get it right again.
Replace your O2's for your running to rich problem.
I assume that your air filter is not clogged.
Not starting when hot is a bad fuel temp sensor.
www.atlanticbritish.com

 

The idle control valve is expensive! How do these usually break? is it something i can disassemble and fix instead of buy new? Also, which hose should i use to run seafoam through?

edit: forgot to say thank you to you for your previous post.

 

If your engine is dying when you put it in gear obviously the transmission is bogging down the engine. After sitting for 7 months I would guess that the transmission needs a new filter and thorough flushing.

 

Thank you for the advice. How many quarts of ATF does it hold, and how hard is the filter to get to? This is the original filter for sure because iv never changed it. Please give me a few steps on how to change filter if you are able.

 

You can remove the ICV and clean the plunger and the port that it goes into, when those get all carboned up they will restrict the air flow and cause problems.
If that does not work then you will need to bite the bullet and buy a new one, it is a 50/50 shot if it will work or not.
And even if ti does work you will still need a new one eventually.

As for the Seafoam...the PCV hose from the passenger side valve cover.
Make sure that you pull out the oil seperator and clean that up good too.

It is stalling while in gear because your RPM are to low and the extra strain on the engine drops the RPM to low for the engine to run. I bet that turning the A/C on would stall it also.

 

In order to get to the transmission filter you will have to drop the oil pan on the transmission. I believe the capacity is 6 quarts of Dexron III ATF but don't have the manual in front of me at the moment and could be wrong. I would recommend using a high mileage ATF such as Valvoline considering the mileage on your vehicle.

 

Replacing the trans filter on a DI is a real PIA, you need to remove the y-pipe and a cross member.
Get it running good and then worry about the trans.
So you are the original owner?

 

Yes i am the original owner. The engine does run good, until i put it into drive or reverse. So that kind of makes me lean towards the transmission as the problem, i will get that filter changed prolly this week as well as running seafoam.

Damn this land rover does have some miles on it though, most parts are original, aside from starter alternator and water pump, and i guess the exhaust pipe behind muffler is really just a fence post. I have really abused it too, especially when fuel was .89$ a gallon, iv drove it through swamps, streams, 4 wheeler trails (with reckless abandon), iv purposely rammed small trees to take em down, multiple hunting trips. The key to a land rover I've found is to pick your battles, i ignore things like power windows breaking, sunroofs breaking, o2 sensors going bad (runs rich and poor mileage, but doesn't affect anything). I also ghetto rig any and everything i can, aluminum foil with copious amounts of JB weld can and will fix holes in radiators, galvanized fence post are the exact size of exhaust pipes, generic fuel pumps can be disassembled and put inside your fuel pumps casing. This thing is a fun vehicle no doubt, and not giving a damn about how it looks is wonderful, i just want it to run.

 

Well buy having bad O2's you not only get really bad MPG you will carbon up the exhaust valves and burn out your cats.
I do recommend changine the trans fliud and filter but you are still going to need a new ICV.

I agree with you though, that is one of the things that I LOVE about my DI, it will take tons of abuse and come back for more. Most things can be fixed with a paper clip and duct tape.
Mine only has 175,000 miles on it and it runs like a top. Starts each and every time and never gives me any hassle.