Usually when a tach does not work it is because of a bad alternator.
There are times when it will start to go bad it wont work when cold but will start to work once warm.
But because of your belt tension problem I would not touch the alternator until you replace the belt and tensioner.

 

so im reading through rave, and it doesn't mention using rtv sealant on the thermostat gasket. should i use it or not? also, i missed reading the part where is says that i have to use loctite on the 11mm water pump bolts. should i remove the bolts and add some loctite?

also, step 8 for the thermostat section says "Fit the outlet elbow and new joint washer.
Tighten to 28 Nm." is a new joint washer a gasket?

 

I would use a light layer of rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket. Don't worry about the loctite.

Yes the washer is the gasket.

 

im bleeding the cooling system, and i need to know if there is a bleed screw on the D1?

 

I don't think there is.
Not on mine anyway.
________
RANDYX live

 

i read the sticky on how to bleed the cooling system for the d2 and it mentions that there is no air bleed on the d1. .

oh yeah and my drive belt was routed wrong, even though i triple checked the routing before and after it was installed. i think i might have been looking at the wrong diagram. routing the belt correctly helped the cooling problem a bit but it still runs hot. so i installed a new vicious clutch today and i will be testing her out first thing in the morning.

 

ohh yeah and can some body please tell me the torque specs for the water pump bolts, water pump pulley bolts, and the thermostat housing bolts. id check for myself but i can open up RAVE. thanks

 

Coolant pump 24 Nm (18 lbf.ft)
Coolant pump pulley 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft)

 

hey thanks for your help everyone. i replaced the viscous clutch and the rover is stayin cool.

 

My 98 land rover dis. Starts to over heat when I'm in park, and the truck is on. Could it be a bad radiator, it starts to cool down when I start to drive? Help me please....