I kind of agree with the others, might be prudent to pull her out and be more thorough. You're only a couple hours more work to get the block out. Plus, these engines leak like a seive anyway, so wouldn't hurt to put in new gaskets, etc. Main thing is you don't want to go through all that work and find out there are other problems. Plus, it's 160k miles... I'd take the pistons out, inspect/mic prior to taking the heads in.

Just a thought. You can rent an engine hoist (or borrow one from a buddy) and put the engine on a cheap Harbor Freight engine stand $40. It's a lot of work rebuilding a motor but also very rewarding and educational, providing you have the time/$$. The other option, should you require it, would be a used motor.

I remember the moment I started up the first motor I rebuilt. Man it just purred. No greater feeling. I drove it many trouble-free miles and then sold it to my sister ...who also put on a lot of miles.

Let us know how it goes..

 

I thought if the sleeves were no good it was time for a new engine? Is this not correct?

Would it be worth just replacing the one piston only? (remember this is an OLD car). Do I have to replace ALL of the pistons or maybe just put new rings on them? Can you rebore the cylinder liners while they are in place?

Thanks,
Roger

 

If you are doing the labor yourself, then its not expensive. If it is that 1 cylinder, just go to a machine shop, they will knock out the sleeve, bore it and knock one back in for around $150.00.

Buy a set of new rings and replace any piston that was rocking with a used one, you should be alright.

 

Sounds like a plan. Thanks for all the advice. I'll post back here when I've done some more work.

Thanks,
Roger

 

If you have a problem finding good used pistons, PM me, i think i have a few laying around in the shop you can have...

 

Maybe get another engine instead that has a guarantee and try dropping that in?

 

Two more questions. Firstly, this car cost me $500. It sounds like I'm going to be spending a lot more than that for parts. It has some spots on the bodywork where it's rusted through. It's not worth much. If it's going to cost another $800-1000, I'll probably just scrap it.

Having said that.. I'm looking at 3 pistons @$60 ea. Gaskets and head bolts @ $195, piston rings @ 200. that takes us to $575 already and that doesn't count the machining.

1st question: Would I be crazy to leave the block in the vehicle and just replace the pistons and rings that have issues? (3 of them). Without getting it machined. This would save me the $150 for machining (or whatever they charge) and the piston rings $240. (total $390) And I wouldn't have to rent an engine hoist. I could just buy the three pistons with rings and be done with it.

2nd question: Do I need to do anything with the timing chain?

Thanks,
Roger

 

What is the condition of this Disco? Focus on the condition and what you can get out of it (usage), rather than the dollars you paid (lets face it the seller would have sold it for $2,000 or whatever if the motor was in prime shape). If you scrap it you loose $450 at best, then you need to go out and look for another vehicle and spend another $2,000 or whatever, so you are into it for 2,500 plus all the maintenance that vehicle will need ...which might include headgaskets.

Now, if you rebuild the motor, or stick in a new one, and you put, say, $600-800 into the motor, you'd have a $1,200 vehicle ...let's say $1,500-ish with essentially a 'brand new' motor that you could trust for years to come, no leaks, new water pump, no head gasket worries. Not many places you could get a Disco with a new motor for that price. You'd have a lot of fun and utility out of it w/o having to fuss with the motor. Of course you will have the labor to rebuild it, but that is the challenge and learning part. Let's face it, every real man should rebuild a motor at least one time in his life ...to get a clearer understanding of the workings of a vehilce (Ok, I'm ready to be Flamed on that comment!). It's a great experience and doesn't require a lot of tools (sounds like you can definitely handle it, if you haven't done it already).

Another option is to try to find a decent used motor, something with relatively low miles. I've bought several used motors in my day and they've worked out well, mostly for vehicles I was planning selling. If you paid $400 for a used motor (hopefully not too high miles), it would still be advisable to replace the front/rear and oil pan gaskets (maybe the head gaskets too unless you know for sure it was already done).

Back to the block on the motor you have, I would really encourage you to pull that motor and make an assessment. Renting an engine hoist isn't that expensive, maybe you can use a nearby tree, or sturdy beams in your garage and a $20 Come-along. Put it on a $35 engine stand (you should be able to borrow an engine stand) and measure the taper on the other sleeves. You can do that with one of your old piston rings and a feeler gauge (measure end gap of the ring at bottom of cylinder, then repeat at top. That gives you the cylinder taper). You can get an idea by the amount of wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. You can stick new rings in it either way, better if there isn't much taper. Anyway, take all pistons out and inspect/measure. If the taper is minimal, cylinders look good, have a shop clean it, check it for straightness/cracks and re-sleeve and/or bore (or new sleeves, I can't recall if you can bore the sleeves).

So, to re-cap, I suggest focusing on the vehicle condition and what you think you can do and use the vehicle. Discos are really fun to drive. You will get hooked. Putting some money in the motor isn't necessarily a bad investment if you plan to keep and drive for a while. Rebuilding an engine and driving that vehicle will give you a sense of pride and accomplishment no words can convey. Nothing wrong with a used motor either.

 

If you just drop the pistons in 2 things will happen. Low compression in the bad cylinder and blow by. Not only is the engine going to run rough (if it starts at all from the low compression) but you are going to be burning a lot of oil also.

If its something that you are going to sell, then just do it, but make sure you tell whoever buys it. If the truck is not worth that much to you, just part it out and make a little profit from it.

 

Hate to be a spoil sport, but parting it out is probably your best bet. Nickle and diming a rebuild of a vehicle that can't be nickle and dimed to drive once you get everything back in working order - just doesn't seem like a good route to choose.

And where do you have rust on the body? The only part of the body that's steel is the roof. The rest is aluminum (ie, no rust)