like a ticking when inside the engine when i lift the hood? or a ticking when im in the car driving? bc i dont hear a tick while im in the car, i hear a slight one when i put my head under the hood i think its a slight stick though

 

just when you are sitting there. It should come from under the hood. Mine ticks a little, from a worn cam lobe, but it would be loud if it was bad enough to cause a problem. Mine runs great, but I have almost 100K on the motor now, and a little tick is to be expected.

If it is idling rough, and you can heat it sputter out the exhaust, I would still change the plugs and wires. You can't just replace a cam. a lot of other things go along with it. It can get expensive. You can change the plugs & wires or have a regular mechanic do it. It is a relatively easy fix. If you are still having problems after that, then see what LR says.

Oh, and just making sure, you are running premium gas in it, right? If not, you might have a clogged/dirty injector.

Just my thoughts....

 

Take a look at this article. This is exactly what happened to me and I needed a valve job to fix the sticking exhaust valve(s). I yanked the heads myself and took them to a local machine shop and they did the work on the heads. Everything great now, no codes. With mine I got the P1316 and a couple others. I did the Seafoam but it won't get to the exhaust valves. This was right about 100K for me.
http://www.robisonservice.com/servic...n_fouling1.pdf

 

I mean my LR only has 68k on it???

 

OK now i changed my plugs and wires and it seemed to help a lil but it still sounds like it is camed or soemthing, and my check engine is still on?

 

Your check engine light won't go off by itself, need to read and clear it with a scanner. Also, plugs and wires won't stop an internal noise, have you considered flushing the engine to see what happens, other wise you will need to start tearing her down.
Mike

 

i know it wont go off by itself, im smarter than that i have had it cleared once, and how hard is an engine flush, is it seomthing that i might be able to myself with help?

 

I recently replaced the head gaskets on my Disco 99 SD. Got 150K on the motor. Replaced the fuel filter, head gasket (and head bolts), intake manifold gaskets, thermostat, IAC, plugs and wires. I took the heads to be cleaned, resurfaced, pressured tested and had a valve job done. I cleaned the oil pan out (the car sat for 2 years) and re-sealed the oilpan. I've changed the oil 3 times and flushed the transmission fluid. I've cleared all codes...that is, until this DTC p1316 popped up.

I've heard a slight ticking noise for a while (before the error code) but I was told that all I need to do is adjust the rockers...maybe tighten them down.

Now that I have this code, I don't know what to do. Do I change the plugs and wires again? The car drives ok. It's just that tapping noise that worries me. And that error code.

Can you give me some advice? Thanks,

Chris

 

Just to add to the previous post:

Took all of the plugs out to check them. All plugs looked pretty good...except cylinder 1. It's the culprit.

Cleaned it and put it back in. Made sure all of the plugs were seated well in the heads and made sure the wire contacts were good and tight. It cranked fine. Sound went away.

Drove around our neighborhood (about .8 miles), came back home and it idled pretty high (~1500 rpm instead of 800-1000 rpm normal). Pulled the same plug (cylinder 1) and it was fouled again!!!

Help.

 

1. Establish whether symptoms are associated with outside temperature, running time, load, engine temperature. Does it miss all the time or under what conditions.
2. Electrical: Can you here it click? Can you see an arc anywhere from the coil pack modules to the wires and from the wires to any spark plug? Some people spray a very fine mist over electrical parts to exacerbate the symptom and locate it easier. If the clicking increases with engine speed a short exists.
3. Electrical: Pull spark plugs, noting their order. Examine for misfiring and note which cylinders are affected. If replacing spark plugs corrects the issue, be careful not to assume that it is fixed for good.
4. Electrical: If plug replacement does not work but signs of a miss are evident on particular cylinders you might recheck for arcs and certainly you may replace all wires.
5. Fuel: If this doesn't work you may have the injector manifold pressure tested and then test (and/or clean) injectors. Again, the reason you started with the plugs is to look for problems on one or more particular cylinders. This may help with injector troubleshooting. If the fuel pressure is low, then the fuel pump may be clogged or bad.
6. Air: Check the mass air flow meter. If it does not report that enough air is passing to the engine, fuel will be cut to the cylinders.
7. Air: If your truck has been displaying a P1316 for some and was feeding too much fuel to the exhaust (even though now it is misfiring and not sending out unburned fuel), the catalytic converter(s) may have become clogged. If the temperature of either of them exceeds 400degrees, this may indicate a clog. A mechanic may not under law remove the converters to test for improvement.
It is possible that a number of these things contribute their share to the overall phenomenon.