O' hullo everyone!

Me, Jay from icy Finland is trying to get his good ol' D2 TD5 started. It has a little under 290k on the clock and engine runs smooth. Bought the darn bushwhacker quite cheap second hand with some know faults (now fixed ie. gasket seals, injector seals, leaking transfer case, MAF, bearings..) but have faced new problems from time to time.



As you know, it gets quite cold around this time here but Disco has been good to me nevertheless. But suddenly it has started acting up!

Short story long:

One day I hop in to Disco and try to start it: Click and nothing. No power what so ever. Damnded. I have a block heater which I use in the cold weather so cold starts shoud not be an issue..or who knows.

Alright. I get out of car. Pop the hood. Shake the battery, wiggle the terminals and actually I rocked the whole damn car just to release some aggression.

Back to starting - good to go! Car starts like new. Ha. Started many times during the same day and no problems next day either.

This same thing happened maybe two times before this:

Some weeks after earlier symptoms, after maybe two days of not using the car, I get in and get weird ZRTTRZTTRT and dashboard lights flickering and no go. Starter wont turn. I get off the car, do the rituals and try again. Okay, now just clicks..click click click when I try to start and I'm thinking it is either battery or the starter/solenoid or ECU contacts (oil in the plug).

Frustrated I take out the battery to get it charged, take out the ECU to check if there is oil in the red plug, bang the starter gently with a hammer, clean most of the grounds I am aware of and also cleaned starter wires (CRC and CRC Electronic Cleaner).

I charged the battery till it says 12.7 v. Cleaned ECU plugs with CRC Oxide Cleaner.

Plugged the ECU and battery back in. OŽkay...tries to start and starting procedure even rocks the car a bit but I eventually drained the battery trying to start it. After the session voltage meter says 11.8 on the battery and no start. Just cranking.

At this point I am ready to march to a battery/starter/whatever store to buy new battery and stuff BUT then I think, I'm gonna give it a one more go.

Took the battery out. Charged it for 11h indoors. Again voltage meter shows full charge. Let us have at it again then. Btw the battery is a heavy VARTA Jaguar 90ah 950CCA I guess 3-4 years old fits like a glove in the battery compartment.

Clean all battery connections etc and put the battery back in, purged the fuel system and start to start. Oh well, quite a lot more juice now,cranks like hell but no ignition. Cranked for ages and tried different starting and priming methods suggested around LR forums - nothing but lively cranking. Sounds like it wants to start but simply CANT for whatever reason. After these crank sessions, voltage meter showed 12.53 on the battery (next morning).

After searching around and asking etc people have suggested different things - new battery, new starter motor, new CPS, new fuel pump....

Why a perfectly good and smooth running TD5 would do this to me quite suddenly.

That is why I would put my first amount of money on CPS.. crank position sensor (or whatever is the correct term). Many people in the nets seem to think so.

What would your educated guess be?

I am pondering on this since the list of the parts I ought to replace according to various sources is getting quite expensive (hunders, over thousand if I don't do all the work myself). Where should I start?

I already looked for a new CPS but I am a bit confused what part is a good one to order. Paddock has several models which look the same but don't say if it fits D2 TD5. The sensor I have seen replaced in a tutorial video looked like these models:

ADU7342L | Sensor - Paddock Spares

or

ERR7354 | Sensor - Paddock Spares

or

ERR7354LR | Sensor - Paddock Spares

and sometimes this part pops up when I have searched around:

NSC100790 | Sensor - Paddock Spares

I would like (and I have to since it does not run) work on the car myself.

Have not tried to jump start it and have not sprayed any starter fluid on it either since, if the fuel is cut off , what is the use.

Have not tried to reset inertia switch. Problem?

Have not checked relays yet. Problem?

Cleaned ECU contacts with CRC Oxide cleaner. Problem?..not good for ECU contacts? (usually I use CRC Electornic cleaner).

Have I messed up ECU or something by taking it in and out and wiggling around?

Old battery causing problems although seems to have charge and power to crank?

https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...i-dsc00368.jpg

Found a useful thread and there is a picture of CPS but is the bearmach variable an option or is it for another vehicle? That is like 1/4 price of the BOSCH-one.

Any insights welcome.

Cheers for your input.

 

Seems to me that you checked almost everthing. Had problem recently since temperature here dropped 18 degrees. My batteries died 2 years old. Im not sure if because you have enough voltage that means you have enoigh cranking amps to start. Just a thought.
Actually, i charged the battery overnight untill full charge but wont start until i got a new one.

 

Yeah. Maybe I will just suck it up and go and get me a new battery this weekend. Will report back after that.

 

One other problem I have not solved yet is a mysterious "clunk" which I can hear usually when I slow the card down without brakes i.e just let go of the gas pedal in certain speeds. Shaft joints maybe? It is not bad but is is regular.

 

Here is my problem and its the front drive shaft. Listen to this link if sounds familiar.
http://gerrycondez.com/LRnoise.MOV

 

Alright, thanks for the fast reply. I hear no "chingin" sound like that but a one simultaneous "clunk" in same occasions as you have on that vid. Maybe I have to have somebody listen outside to check if there is this metallic chingaling also. Have to investigate, cheers for the fast reply and elaborate sound environment.

 

Have you checked the glow plugs for condition and if you are getting 12v to them?

Remove one glow plug and inspect it and also test it on a spare battery to ensure it glows correctly (but only for 5 to 10 seconds maximum) as I'm afraid in your temperatures in Finland you will definitely need good glow plugs to start a diesel. (there are only 4 glow plugs in a TD5, don't ask me why ........... please, I don't know, maybe LR were trying to save money).

The only other possible issue would be, IMO, the CPS or even possibly the MAF (Bosch MAF's are king). Take a look at the glow plugs first though.

 

I have not checked them. Last time I tried to start the thing, the block heater (Defa) had been on for three hours and it was around -1C. I have decided to get a new battery and check relays and inertia before I move to CPS. I replaced MAF about 2000km ago and that sorted rough engine sound and some turbo problems.

 

Funny thing. I took it to MOT last month before I ended up breaking my arm (cant drive or do jack shait yet).

The D2 would not start a day before the MOT and I was like "Hell! My MOT expiration day is tomorrow!"

Well I did the described rituals and next day D2 started up well and I drove to MOT.

MOT engineer had nothing else to complain apart from burned out tail light which I had missed to notice. Body and chassis in good shape and he said that " They used to make good cars back in the day". Also had some giggles over my old but almost new condition Hakkapeliitta 10 lt - studded tires which are actually made in USA.

 

Went and bought me a new 100ah 800cca battery and a CTEK MXS POLAR 5.0 intelligent charger.

Alright. Charged the new battery till it went into upkeep mode.

Started to install battery shoes and other broke in half. Phew. Off to buy a new battery shoe then tomorrow. Nearest shop did not have the ones I was looking for. Sigh.