About to throw in the towel DII.
About to throw in the towel DII.
#2
06-04-2009 | 05:37 PM
Well lets step back and break this down.
The headliner a auto upholstry shop can fix for under $200.
The headgaskets are WAY over priced, a indie shop can do it for ~$1500.
That throttle body heater plate...http://roverparts.com/Parts/MGM000010KG.cfm...you can do that one yourself.
Buy some real tires, I bought a set of Cooper Discoverer S/T's for under $600 installed.
$1,000 for a water pump replacement is ridiculous, the pump is $300 for a brand new LR one, $150 for a good aftermatket one and it bills out as a 1.6 hour job.
Find a new mechanic, he is raping you, or going to rape you.
If you are not very mechanincal then go to www.cartalk.com and find the Mechanix files link, enter your zip code and recommended shops will come up.
Tell him headgaskets and a new water pump for $2,000 (parts AND labor), if he says no then walk out and find a new shop.
Now here is a question for you, have you had the front driveshaft rebuilt?
The headliner a auto upholstry shop can fix for under $200.
The headgaskets are WAY over priced, a indie shop can do it for ~$1500.
That throttle body heater plate...http://roverparts.com/Parts/MGM000010KG.cfm...you can do that one yourself.
Buy some real tires, I bought a set of Cooper Discoverer S/T's for under $600 installed.
$1,000 for a water pump replacement is ridiculous, the pump is $300 for a brand new LR one, $150 for a good aftermatket one and it bills out as a 1.6 hour job.
Find a new mechanic, he is raping you, or going to rape you.
If you are not very mechanincal then go to www.cartalk.com and find the Mechanix files link, enter your zip code and recommended shops will come up.
Tell him headgaskets and a new water pump for $2,000 (parts AND labor), if he says no then walk out and find a new shop.
Now here is a question for you, have you had the front driveshaft rebuilt?
#4
06-04-2009 | 06:10 PM
#6
06-04-2009 | 07:48 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 8
Man, I love my urban assault vehicle so much but I just can't keep up with it anymore. I can't think of anything else I would buy that is nearly as cool. Here's the deal. 2000 Series II, 111k, looks great. OME lift, Maxxis mud tires, rock/tree sliders, lightbar with 4 hellas, bonnet sticker, rubber mats, harmon kardon and 2 sunroofs, the thing is cool. In just the last couple months I have done a fuse panel to fix an A/C blower problem, both catalytic converters and all 4 oxygen sensors, new gas cap, window motor, new wipers, new battery, new alternator, new belt, and more. I wanted to go to Moab so I let a LR master tech who works at an independent shop look at it. He was cool, he showed me things that I thought it needed and told me not to spend my money on them. He reset my codes for me too. The friekin engine light came on AGAIN on the way home though. He said that I do need a water pump and stuff which I agree with (mine is original) but he also wanted $1000 to do the job. He also said that I need a new plate that is on the bottom of my throttle body that will cost a few hundred more dollars. The worst however is that he showed me coolant leaks from my head gaskets and said it would cost $3000 to fix that. On top of all of this I still need new tires as mine are beginning to rot and crack (Arizona). Oh yeah, I forgot, my headliner is falling out too, it looks terrible. There are probably things I am forgetting too. Oh yeah, for 2 years my tranny stumbles between 1st and 2nd gear when not in sport mode. I feel very lost right now and overwhelmed. I do not want another car payment though, especially now but I also don't want to spend more than what my rover is worth only to have to fix something else in a few weeks.
It goes against all that you should do but it cant hurt. Last year, my 1995 range rover 4.0 se with 175,000,00 mile on it needed a head gasget job also. I found a guy and spent $1,100.00 for the job. Two days later i had a block broblem or leak as it was over heating and had white smoke. Took back to my friend shop and everyone thought a block problem. I know way was going to rebuild so i did some research and did a block treatment. It is called cargo. Do a search on it . we drilled out the thermostat as i got a new one anyway so the treatment could circulate. We started it up and watched the white smoke start as it got to temputure. we added the Cargo product and within 3 minutes there was no smoke and the temp went to 12 oclock. we where all dumb founded and the mechanics could not beleve it. We let it run for 1/2 an hour and it was ice cold. I drove with the treatment in for over a month and then drained the system and let it air dry overnight. I filled it up with antifreeze the next day and it's been going ever since. 212,100,000 as of today and i live in florida and its cooking everyday. I swear by the stuff. i found this new company for a oil leak i had and in 2 days was gone. They have a block and headgasget sealing product also so i bet it would be worth giving a try. If you do the treatment make sure your breakout the thermostat center with a screwdriver so the treatment can circulate. You can replace with a new one after the treatment. I also rerouted the heater matrix just in case during the treatment but is not nessessary.
Just my 2 cents.... Chris
#7
06-04-2009 | 09:43 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: West Virginia
UUMM - I know where the sport mode is but what are you referring to as "manual mode"
are you just slapsticking up the gears 1 > D????
OOPS - jayandy sorry to hear your getting discouraged, something to consider is - if your gonna play, your gonna pay. maybe take some time off pounding on your rig and enjoy it on the asphalt whilst you get it up to the level you want (or is it just a street truck?). most folks around here (WV) don't take their daily drivers in the woods - to expensive to maintain, if you blow the punkin and its not payday you have to take the bus to work
I guess what I'm trying to say is it can be very difficult (expensive) to maintain a vehicle to street legal standards (or stylish looks) if you want to go froading with it
are you just slapsticking up the gears 1 > D????
OOPS - jayandy sorry to hear your getting discouraged, something to consider is - if your gonna play, your gonna pay. maybe take some time off pounding on your rig and enjoy it on the asphalt whilst you get it up to the level you want (or is it just a street truck?). most folks around here (WV) don't take their daily drivers in the woods - to expensive to maintain, if you blow the punkin and its not payday you have to take the bus to work
I guess what I'm trying to say is it can be very difficult (expensive) to maintain a vehicle to street legal standards (or stylish looks) if you want to go froading with it
Last edited by Night Train; 06-04-2009 at 09:55 PM.
#8
06-04-2009 | 09:52 PM
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
no, when you are in low range if you push the same button as sport mode in high range it puts you in manual and whatever gear you choose it starts and stays in until you shift. put it in 4 and thats where you start out, etc
#9
06-04-2009 | 09:59 PM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: West Virginia
Thanks
Robert
#10
06-05-2009 | 07:41 AM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: West Virginia
jayandy,
Someone else with more electronic experience than I can chime in on this (and I do not know how you would test this theory) but (from the outside looking in) if you are continually getting lights and fault codes - and - replacing the items that have been indicated as faulty - with good quality parts, it may be possible that your "ECU" is bad. Of course this will not fix any of your leaks but in general terms (electronically) if you replace (what is believed to be) a faulty sub-part and still receive indications of fault, the next step is to replace the next higher assembly in the chain - your ECU.
Thats probably not good news (cost wise) but it may be a start.
Someone else with more electronic experience than I can chime in on this (and I do not know how you would test this theory) but (from the outside looking in) if you are continually getting lights and fault codes - and - replacing the items that have been indicated as faulty - with good quality parts, it may be possible that your "ECU" is bad. Of course this will not fix any of your leaks but in general terms (electronically) if you replace (what is believed to be) a faulty sub-part and still receive indications of fault, the next step is to replace the next higher assembly in the chain - your ECU.
Thats probably not good news (cost wise) but it may be a start.