About to throw in the towel. More maddening coolant leaks
#11
Hmm, I wonder what caused that. It's hard to imagine that piece did so much damage.
In any case, that's bad luck.
BTW, Dexcool eventually turns to orange mud and clogs radiators and water passages. I suspect he's asking if you run Dexcool because clogging due to mud might explain overpressurization.
Here's more info.
While you have the radiator out, you should thoroughly flush and refill with green coolant.
In any case, that's bad luck.
BTW, Dexcool eventually turns to orange mud and clogs radiators and water passages. I suspect he's asking if you run Dexcool because clogging due to mud might explain overpressurization.
Here's more info.
While you have the radiator out, you should thoroughly flush and refill with green coolant.
I had been running the green stuff, but the Land Rover shop had told me I should be using the orange because it was less corrosive or something.
I'll switch back.
#12
"About to throw in the towel. More maddening coolant leaks"
Never give up, it sucks................... your truck is probably getting on in years and many parts are ..................well just old and knackered (like me ) unfortunately **** happens and you get a run of cr&p luck particularly with old LR's.
Motto:...................Never give up as you become the 1st of the losers.......
Never give up, it sucks................... your truck is probably getting on in years and many parts are ..................well just old and knackered (like me ) unfortunately **** happens and you get a run of cr&p luck particularly with old LR's.
Motto:...................Never give up as you become the 1st of the losers.......
#13
#14
Oh that sucks. Looks like one of the keepers from the fan shroud. My fan shroud is being held on by friction... Has me thinking. Sorry for your rotten luck.
#15
I use this
No Nonsense Central Heating Cleaner 500ml | Cleaner | Screwfix.com
to flush the radiator and cooling system because they both have the same type attributes. I add 250 mls to the coolant and leave it for a couple of weeks to clean up. You would be amazed what sludge comes out when you finally flush the system through.
No Nonsense Central Heating Cleaner 500ml | Cleaner | Screwfix.com
to flush the radiator and cooling system because they both have the same type attributes. I add 250 mls to the coolant and leave it for a couple of weeks to clean up. You would be amazed what sludge comes out when you finally flush the system through.
#16
Thanks guys! Yeah, when I first bought it, I drove it for almost 15,000 trouble-free miles. Then... I'm hoping to get it to a point where I can get another 15,000-20,000 trouble-free miles.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
#17
Thanks guys! Yeah, when I first bought it, I drove it for almost 15,000 trouble-free miles. Then... I'm hoping to get it to a point where I can get another 15,000-20,000 trouble-free miles.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
To use some chemicals in it, like Super Flush is one thing. To power flush is another.
That damage in the aluminum can be fixed. Use some brake clean on it, scuff it up, get some JB weld and fill it in. Make sure you get some inside as it will sandwich the aluminum and make it stronger. It will work.
#20
Most, if not all, rads are repairable but sometimes not economically viable though. The alloy cores with plastic caps are more difficult than the real old brass core matrix with soldered joints though but I'm afraid these disappeared with Noah and his Ark. If you go to a good rad specialist and get their advice they will advise and probably repair it for you. Good luck.