ABS braking problems
#1
ABS braking problems
I have read tons of information regarding the issues with the 1997 Discovery SE and the braking problems. Yet, I'm not exactly sure how to proceed.
My MIL gave us her Discovery. The brakes had previously failed (not sure of what happened) and she had someone fix them for her. When she gave it to us, it had not been driven except for a short test drive. The ABS light was on but she assured us the brakes were fixed. The brakes seemed a bit soft and spongy when depressing and it took longer then I thought it should to stop. After several days of mountain driving, and one time attempting to stop suddenly to avoid hitting deer, the brakes suddenly begin to catch higher up and felt firm. I told my husband that it felt like the brakes were working "right". This was just before we exited the mountains (the next hour was mostly downhill driving). Then, as I was accelerating up a small hill (no longer in mtns) the brakes locked on the front driver side wheel. There was no where to pull over and I had to crest the hill before finding a spot to pull over. By this point in time smoke was pouring from the wheel.
After almost 2 hours of sitting on the side of the road hoping it would cool down and work, my husband decided to bleed the lines. He bleed one of the lines coming from the box that says ABS. This worked and we proceeded home from our vacation. However, if I had to use the brakes alot (when we traveled thru cities with multiple stop lights) the brakes would lock again. Bleeding the line resolved the issue. We managed to make it home by gearing down manually and using the emergency brake as needed (which also does not stop vehicle quickly).
I have downloaded the repair manual found on this site, have instructions on how to reset the ABS light, have instructions on how to use a jumper to determine the code (and the code readings), and have read that I may be able to disconnect the ABS system completely by pulling a fuse (although I am unsure of what fuse).
How would you recommend that I proceed? At present I am without a vehicle and due to family circumstances MUST have one ASAP to use. Therefore I am not opposed to disconnecting the ABS if this is the easiest, quickest, and most cost effective means to fixing the problem.
Thank you in advance for all advise and recommendations!
My MIL gave us her Discovery. The brakes had previously failed (not sure of what happened) and she had someone fix them for her. When she gave it to us, it had not been driven except for a short test drive. The ABS light was on but she assured us the brakes were fixed. The brakes seemed a bit soft and spongy when depressing and it took longer then I thought it should to stop. After several days of mountain driving, and one time attempting to stop suddenly to avoid hitting deer, the brakes suddenly begin to catch higher up and felt firm. I told my husband that it felt like the brakes were working "right". This was just before we exited the mountains (the next hour was mostly downhill driving). Then, as I was accelerating up a small hill (no longer in mtns) the brakes locked on the front driver side wheel. There was no where to pull over and I had to crest the hill before finding a spot to pull over. By this point in time smoke was pouring from the wheel.
After almost 2 hours of sitting on the side of the road hoping it would cool down and work, my husband decided to bleed the lines. He bleed one of the lines coming from the box that says ABS. This worked and we proceeded home from our vacation. However, if I had to use the brakes alot (when we traveled thru cities with multiple stop lights) the brakes would lock again. Bleeding the line resolved the issue. We managed to make it home by gearing down manually and using the emergency brake as needed (which also does not stop vehicle quickly).
I have downloaded the repair manual found on this site, have instructions on how to reset the ABS light, have instructions on how to use a jumper to determine the code (and the code readings), and have read that I may be able to disconnect the ABS system completely by pulling a fuse (although I am unsure of what fuse).
How would you recommend that I proceed? At present I am without a vehicle and due to family circumstances MUST have one ASAP to use. Therefore I am not opposed to disconnecting the ABS if this is the easiest, quickest, and most cost effective means to fixing the problem.
Thank you in advance for all advise and recommendations!
#2
#3
The base braking system should function independent of the ABS EHCU in most conditions and shouldn't be related to the issue. If the "locking" is only observed on one wheel, I'd first rule out an internally collapsed brake hose to the offending caliper (may look fine from the outside) or a caliper that is hanging up. A collapsed line is not unusual with age after a "panic" stop and it will restrict or prevent the fluid from returning keeping pressure at the caliper thus locking the wheel. Just my .02...
#4
Part 2 (It wouldn't let me edit my post)
The ABS codes as stated by hilltoppersx need to be read by the stealership or specific code reader and IMHO the ABS light illumination is an independant issue from what you are expieriencing with wheel lock. It is possible that a port or valve in the EHCU is being blocked causing this but rule out the common causes first.
The ABS codes as stated by hilltoppersx need to be read by the stealership or specific code reader and IMHO the ABS light illumination is an independant issue from what you are expieriencing with wheel lock. It is possible that a port or valve in the EHCU is being blocked causing this but rule out the common causes first.
#5
#6
Update
After I posted, I test drove the Rover around the field to see if I noticed anything else. It's working perfect! Better actually then when I first got it. I do hear a swishing noise when I press the brake.
Someone suggested that maybe the wrong type of brake fluid (Dot 3 or Dot 4) had been used and that after so long the pressure build up causes the brake to lock somehow (sorry, I only understood half of what I was told as I don't have much experience in mechanics). At some point in time in the past, prior to any brake problems, I believe my MIL said she put transmission fluid in the brake fluid by mistake.
I intend to check all the things mentioned in the replies here, but wonder if maybe there is some residue of an inappropriate fluid in with the brake fluid causing the issue???
Someone suggested that maybe the wrong type of brake fluid (Dot 3 or Dot 4) had been used and that after so long the pressure build up causes the brake to lock somehow (sorry, I only understood half of what I was told as I don't have much experience in mechanics). At some point in time in the past, prior to any brake problems, I believe my MIL said she put transmission fluid in the brake fluid by mistake.
I intend to check all the things mentioned in the replies here, but wonder if maybe there is some residue of an inappropriate fluid in with the brake fluid causing the issue???
#7
#8
After I posted, I test drove the Rover around the field to see if I noticed anything else. It's working perfect! Better actually then when I first got it. I do hear a swishing noise when I press the brake.
Someone suggested that maybe the wrong type of brake fluid (Dot 3 or Dot 4) had been used and that after so long the pressure build up causes the brake to lock somehow (sorry, I only understood half of what I was told as I don't have much experience in mechanics). (Dot 3 vs 4 and their derivatives vary by system boiling point) Further Dot 5 (silicone based) should not be used in an ABS system or mixed with 3 or 4 due to very undesireable results. At some point in time in the past, prior to any brake problems, I believe my MIL said she put transmission fluid in the brake fluid by mistake. No words..... This should have been a tow to an shop and a flush done immediately. Again, .
I intend to check all the things mentioned in the replies here, but wonder if maybe there is some residue of an inappropriate fluid in with the brake fluid causing the issue???
Someone suggested that maybe the wrong type of brake fluid (Dot 3 or Dot 4) had been used and that after so long the pressure build up causes the brake to lock somehow (sorry, I only understood half of what I was told as I don't have much experience in mechanics). (Dot 3 vs 4 and their derivatives vary by system boiling point) Further Dot 5 (silicone based) should not be used in an ABS system or mixed with 3 or 4 due to very undesireable results. At some point in time in the past, prior to any brake problems, I believe my MIL said she put transmission fluid in the brake fluid by mistake. No words..... This should have been a tow to an shop and a flush done immediately. Again, .
I intend to check all the things mentioned in the replies here, but wonder if maybe there is some residue of an inappropriate fluid in with the brake fluid causing the issue???
#10
I just bought a 97 disco. The front brakes locked up on me. I pulled over after noticing the smoke and realizing something was def. wrong. After I had pulled over, put it in park and turned engine off the brake pedal was stuck down. I couldn't push it further or pull it back. After 20 minutes it unlocked. I got it home but the pedal is still very spongey, I have very little braking power. Is it the master cylinder? I've been told it was and the seller included a replacement unit.
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