I am New here and have been working on my 3 amigos, I have pulled the ABS codes and i got 037 rear left out valve open circuit. does anyone have an idea if this is the wheel sensor. i had the three amigos intermittently until i did the shuttle valve mod, now the three amigos are on all the time. I have the ABS Amigos v1 usb and have tried and tried to clear the codes. any help would be appreciated. I have a 99 discovery II which i purchased and the guy i bought it from said the lights were due to aftermarket slotted rotors and pads. but with the code i pulled it is only one wheel. thank you

 

Are you sure you tapped into the correct wire?

 

Welcome.
Valves are in the ABS modulator body, not sensors at the wheels.
Disconnect the plug from the modulator, grab a multimeter and measure resistance values per:

----> ABS Modulator - External Connector View Photo by Innernet | Photobucket

If the resistance is fine, can be confirmed applying 12 V to each valve terminal to hear it clicking. Clicking tells the solenoid for the valve is working, but does not tell the valve itself is opening/closing flow.

If resistance and clicking is fine, next test can be wiring and connectors health.
If resistance shows open circuit, the solenoid for that valve is not getting power internally from the connector.

 

Yes i am sure i tapped into the correct wire, i used the yellow with green stripe. are you supposed to grease anything before putting the shutter valve back together. i will check continuity on the plug itself.

 

do you know if this has anything to do with brake bleeding, i know you need the testbook, but i have been trying to do it manually.

 

Yellow with green is for the shuttle valve switch SVS, as shown on my link above, not for the rear left solenoid valve.

I would not use any grease in electrical contacts, just very cleaned.
About brake bleeding, I read somewhere that the 'testbook' should be used previous/while bleeding to tell the ABS compfuser that such procedure is being performed in order to not throw an error code after doing it. But cannot find that documentation at this moment to confirm with a link.

 

ok here it goes. i do not have a multimeter, so i bypassed the resistance check. went straight to checking for clicking, all the valves click except the rear left out. so will i need to replace the whole ABS unit or the abs modulator? with the ABS MOD i was able to get rid of the Shuttle valve problem but since taking it apart and putting back together somehow the rear left valve is now sticking, any clues on what to do next? i have learned a lot from this forum and hope to be able to contribute one day.

 

If the rear left solenoid is not clicking, chances are your harness/connectors are healthy; and while the SVS was repaired, mishandling something caused your new problem.
Search for pictures in other posts that show how are those valves energized to learn where you can have lost contact during the previous surgery. If I find it, will edit this post.

Edited: The attached picture stolen from the net shows the connector above, and below left, its other side with 4 whitish and 4 blackish bobbins or solenoids.
Each bobbin has 2 wires, one grounded and one ending at its corresponding connector terminal, total 8.
The one that fails 'to click' suffered a broken wire, either at the bobbin itself, grounding or at the terminal. Another possibility is that one of the plungers as on the bottom right picture was assembled poorly, cocked, and is not moving but its corresponding bobbin is electrically healthy.

You must measure continuity on the 'not clicking' terminal to discern if it is a bad bobbin or a stuck plunger. [Electrical or mechanical problem]
Continuity present likely tells good bobbin, stuck plunger.
No continuity for sure tells electrical failure.

 

Cool thank you for your help, i will try and take part again tomorrow and make sure all contacts are clean. i don't know what else to do was really careful when taking apart and putting back together. there was some gunk on one of the posts, i cleaned it but did not clean the bobbin side. Thank You again for your help, just might get one from the junk yard here and start over.....

 

¿¿¿Taking it apart??? There is no contacts to clean at the bobbin side; wiring is embedded in epoxy.
You must check resistance as first mandatory step.
If resistance is ok, then the plunger is stuck,
If resistance shows open circuit, you would need replacing the modulator, I would not know how to restore functionality.