ABS Codes: My last hurdle.
I've been on a spree of fixing codes to try to get the elusive no check engine light, and I think I'm close.
The last one(s) I'm having trouble finding much info on are all ABS codes:
14: Front Left Outlet Valve Open Circuit
16: Rear Right Outlet Valve Open Circuit
34: Front Left Outlet Valve Short To Internal Supply
36: Rear Left Outlet Valve Short To Internal Supply
From what I read this should be giving me the 3 amigos on the dashboard, but I've only had that happen once, it went away after restarting the car and never came back. Plus I reset the codes since this has happened. ABS kicks / traction control kicks in from time to time when I need it with no issues.
Any advice on what these could be?
P.S doubt it's connected, but as of now I have P0441 too. I have a new eval purge valve on the way.
The last one(s) I'm having trouble finding much info on are all ABS codes:
14: Front Left Outlet Valve Open Circuit
16: Rear Right Outlet Valve Open Circuit
34: Front Left Outlet Valve Short To Internal Supply
36: Rear Left Outlet Valve Short To Internal Supply
From what I read this should be giving me the 3 amigos on the dashboard, but I've only had that happen once, it went away after restarting the car and never came back. Plus I reset the codes since this has happened. ABS kicks / traction control kicks in from time to time when I need it with no issues.
Any advice on what these could be?
P.S doubt it's connected, but as of now I have P0441 too. I have a new eval purge valve on the way.
When the internal circuit inside the wabco unit starts to fail you will get 3 Amigos while driving, then upon a key cycle the soft faults go away. Option B will bypass the weak link internal circuit. Also when performing Option B inspect the insulation on the shuttle valve switches. If it's cracked you can repair it with some 3/32 heat shrink or simply replace the shuttle valve switch and wire it for Option B.
It's an extremely easy procedure but I continue to see out in the field botched Option B installs and people complaining it didn't work. YOU MUST cut the yellow/green wire and run 1 of the shuttle valve switch wires directly to the yellow/green wire on the harness side. The yellow/green wire going into the wabco unit is NO LONGER required to be connected. I see this mistake so often!!! Cut the shuttle valve connector off, run 2 wires out, 1 to yellow/green harness side, and 1 to a good solid ground. Clear ABS faults and go from there.
It's an extremely easy procedure but I continue to see out in the field botched Option B installs and people complaining it didn't work. YOU MUST cut the yellow/green wire and run 1 of the shuttle valve switch wires directly to the yellow/green wire on the harness side. The yellow/green wire going into the wabco unit is NO LONGER required to be connected. I see this mistake so often!!! Cut the shuttle valve connector off, run 2 wires out, 1 to yellow/green harness side, and 1 to a good solid ground. Clear ABS faults and go from there.
I was reading about Option B, but wasn’t sure that was the fix for those issues. You think that could be the solution? If so I’m glad, I was worried it might be a much more expensive or complicated fix. I found the guide with images and think I could do that in a few hours…
Performing Option B is a good starting point IMHO. It deletes a defect within the Wabco unit. Once done you can mark that off the list and go from there. Usually after Option B it'll be ABS sensor wiring, ABS sensors, or hubs causing issues after that. I personally haven't changed out an entire Wabco ABS modulator in a very very very long time.
Performing Option B is a good starting point IMHO. It deletes a defect within the Wabco unit. Once done you can mark that off the list and go from there. Usually after Option B it'll be ABS sensor wiring, ABS sensors, or hubs causing issues after that. I personally haven't changed out an entire Wabco ABS modulator in a very very very long time.
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