First a bit of back ground.

I purchased my 2001 Disco II this past December. I didn't really do a bunch of research or ask this forum a ton of questions like what to look for and what to run away from. It was an emotional decision tbh. Had I thought really hard I probably wouldn't have bought it. The buyer was less than forthright, gave me no reliable information, no maintenance records. So to say there's been a learning curve is mild. I lost a rear wheel hub recently on a wheeling trip, huge fiasco. It was recommended to me to purchase a front hub assembly because the ABS cable is longer and better suited for a lifted rig. I called British Pacific confirmed they had the part and asked them to hold it for me, saying I would be there Friday to pick it up. Drove over with my wife and was told they sold and shipped it to NY. They then told me I should have paid for it to be held!? That's funny because I said I was ready to pay for it but they said it wouldn't be an issue. With a Rover sitting in my driveway out of commission I just bought a rear. I asked for a replacement ABS cable and found that BP only sells the replacement cable as a entire continuous unit all the way back to the ABS block!? Honestly, I'm not going to redo the whole routing.

Here's the question, Is the ABS system really that necessary for a primarily off road rig? Anybody else just disable the ABS system? The previous owner literally cut the rear ABS wires, I'm assuming because of the rear articulation. Should I just splice in the longer wire and heat shrink it?

Hugh

 

Ugh. What a nightmare. I will say absolutely keep the ABS. It's the ABS system that facilitates the TC and HD. Those features are really really good when working properly. So I'd argue that in this case ABS is a huge advantage for an off road vehicle.
IF you don't have a CDL (can't remember if they do or not) or lockers your literally wheeling completely open. Even the slightest obstacle/loss of traction will stop you.

Can you you go to a pic/pull junkyard? Or hit up someone parting a D2 out and get the wiring you need?

Someone who just cuts wires because they don't understand how something works...is a huge pet peeve of mine. Don't be that guy. Repair better.

 

If you don't have the 04 CDL linkage and 03-04 SLABS Unit then you absolutely need the ABS to work. You want ABS/TC/HDC to work as it really does help off road (especially when you don't have CDL). Everyone treats the ABS sensors like they're some super rare/unique part. It's just a 2 wire sensor with no + or -. I was off road in my Kalahari when a RR ABS sensor OEM connector self destructed. I did a quick trail repair, used my Nanocom to reset the faults, and wheeled for the rest of the weekend with no issues.

When I got back I simply went online found the older style short ABS Sensor wires for the front, ordered a pair, and then I added the 2 wire trailer plugs vs the OEM plugs as they were just completely falling apart. It's now been nearly 5 years without a single ABS fault. Secret is to seal the connections/splices up really good, and you shouldn't have any problems.

Now if you don't have a scantool which can read the actual ABS faults I would highly suggest getting one as it makes dealing with the ABS system super simple, and those faults DO NOT just go away if you remove the battery. They will stay stored in the SLABS unit until you clear them. I use a Nanocom, but you should be able to find either a iCarsoft unit or similar to clear the faults and diagnose your system.

 

[QUOTE=Shiftonthefly1;770426]Ugh. What a nightmare.

It does feel a little bit like a nightmare

I will say absolutely keep the ABS. It's the ABS system that facilitates the TC and HD. Those features are really really good when working properly. So I'd argue that in this case ABS is a huge advantage for an off road vehicle.

So I'm presuming that those features traction control and held descent are an automatic function of a correctly functioning ABS system. Meaning there is no on/off switch.

IF you don't have a CDL (can't remember if they do or not) or lockers your literally wheeling completely open. Even the slightest obstacle/loss of traction will stop you.

The vehicle does have an operational CDL and both front and rear differential have air lockers.

Can you you go to a pic/pull junkyard? Or hit up someone parting a D2 out and get the wiring you need?

I think I can splice in an extra piece.

Someone who just cuts wires because they don't understand how something works...is a huge pet peeve of mine. Don't be that guy. Repair better.

Yeah I'm not sure why he did it I suspect it was more of a financial frustration more than anything else. I appreciate your response to my post.

 

[QUOTE=Best4x4;770427]If you don't have the 04 CDL linkage and 03-04 SLABS Unit then you absolutely need the ABS to work.

What is a 03-04 slabs unit?

You want ABS/TC/HDC to work as it really does help off road (especially when you don't have CDL). Everyone treats the ABS sensors like they're some super rare/unique part. It's just a 2 wire sensor with no + or -. I was off road in my Kalahari when a RR ABS sensor OEM connector self destructed. I did a quick trail repair, used my Nanocom to reset the faults, and wheeled for the rest of the weekend with no issues.

As I mentioned before I do have a functioning CDL. I also have an icarsoft obdII tool. That's great that you made a field repair.

When I got back I simply went online found the older style short ABS Sensor wires for the front, ordered a pair, and then I added the 2 wire trailer plugs vs the OEM plugs as they were just completely falling apart. It's now been nearly 5 years without a single ABS fault. Secret is to seal the connections/splices up really good, and you shouldn't have any problems.

That's a good idea putting in new plugs.

Now if you don't have a scantool which can read the actual ABS faults I would highly suggest getting one as it makes dealing with the ABS system super simple, and those faults DO NOT just go away if you remove the battery. They will stay stored in the SLABS unit until you clear them. I use a Nanocom, but you should be able to find either a iCarsoft unit or similar to clear the faults and diagnose your system.

First up right now get the hub repaired then start working on all four corners and make sure the cables are all good. Then I'll delve into the ABS issue codes.

I appreciate all the advice.

 

You'll probably find out why he clipped the wires when you hook them back up...

 

I've dealt with a lot of used Land Rover's some good, and some bad, and usually when it comes to the 3 Amigo's you have idiots who will go to great lengths to cover them up vs fix it for 5.00. For example I was working on an 02 for a friend and they were bragging it didn't have the 3 Amigo's. I turned the key and none of those warning lights lit up period. Previous owner ripped each LED off the gauge cluster PCB..... I pulled out my Nanocom and it listed shuttle valve switch faults, and the rough road fault. I had a spare 2 wire trailer harness with me, performed Option B, and took it for a spin. Zero ABS faults after that, but sadly I had to tell the new owners they needed a new gauge cluster and then I'd have to SYNC it. That cost them nearly 100.00 by the time it was said and done vs just simply reading the fault codes, and installing a 5.00 2 wire harness.

Then I had another one which the owner took it to a shop and they insisted it needed the long ABS wires vs the short ones. They had a receipt for 600.00 and some change and it stated "ran new ABS sensors at from all 4 wheels, however ABS faults still present". They told the customer it needed a new Wabco Unit for nearly 1,500.00. I got the Nanocom out, and all sorts of faults were still stored. I cleared them, and they came right back! I removed the lower kick panel by the blower, and the idiots ran the ABS sensors, but DID NOT connect them to the SLABS unit. I showed the customer what I had found, and they took it back to the shop and got a refund. I then got it back, correctly spliced each sensor, and then also performed Option B as it had shuttle valve switch faults. Customer drove away with a working system and haven't had any issues since.

Read the codes, perform Option B, replace the sensors or hubs, and call it a day. The ABS system on a D2 is fairly simple vs other vehicles out there. The issue is most people are clueless and when they see the LR badge they freak plum out!

 

Probably.

 

[QUOTE=Black.Rhino;770633]SLABS = Self-Levelling & Antilock Brake System.
It's the module that controls both of these systems. Because the earlier trucks didn't come from the factory with the CDL intentionally installed, the SLABS units aren't "aware" of the CDL and some problems can arise. The SLABS from the later years operates correctly when the CDL is enabled, and also has some improved ABS mapping.
It is sometimes necessary to program the SLABS for coils in the rear if the donor truck has airbag suspension. A very few people have encountered problems where their truck just will not work with the newer SLABS, but for most people it is just plug and play