ABS MODULATOR FIX (NO more SVS fault)
 

Moderator edit: updated link: http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/abs-mod.html

Very impressive Josh! Your step by step explanation as well as your excellent photo images are first class. I think I will be attempting this repair in the near future.

Do I need any special tool to reset the system to clear the history of any faults or does it just reset itself?

Re-read the disclaimer section. I updated it just for you!

UPDATED TO INCLUDE STRAIGHT WIRING OF THE SVS.... AND REMOVING THE MODULATOR SIDE OF THE PUMP ONLY...

Sorry its all on one page but I feel that anyone performing this job should read through all 50 steps first....

That is very helpful, and cost efficient! You did a very good job explaining it and the pictures helpto understand it all. I would try to do it, but mine doesn't turn on very often and all the work with taking apart the abs modulator, I'm afraid id mess it up and make something worse.

Your discovery of an easy fix for this otherwise expensive dealership repair has earned you a spot in the Disco Owners Home Mechanics Hall of Fame! Watch your back because Tata Motors may send a Hindu hit man after you!

I have one question though. If you choose method B, is it even necessary to remove the modulator assembly at all? I mean if you can unsecure the ABS ui as you show and raise it enough to remove the 3 allen head screws for the SVS and wiggle out the plug it seems like you would not even have to remove the modulator assembly.

I have already defeated 3 "Tata Motors Hindu Hitmen"...

No one stands a chance between me and my fixes...


Now to answer your question...Yes you can remove the three rubber mounts and remove the abs brake lines from the bulk head to position the ABS unit high enough to remove the 3 hex screws allowing you to remove the SVS only.

Questions that should have been asked under this thread

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27611

Thanks Josh. As you suggested I will continue my questions here.

I don't have any testing tool at all. The 3 amigos was there for like 3 months, not an intermittent one. A friend of mine used his OBDII to test my truck and gave him something "Shuttle Valve Failure" blah blah. I tried the troubleshooting manual/pdf in your website and no luck. That's why I want to give a try to the bypass option B. I went thru all the steps, and the connection testing at Step 40 is also fine. But when I re-installed everything, turned the key, too bad the lights were still there. :(

The only difference between my work and yours is, I think, I ground the harness to the hole I indicated in the pic rather than the bolt holding the pipe like you. Is that possible it is the reason?

Hi Josh,

I completed my repair, using your last method that only involves removing the switch. I did find it extremely hard to turn those 3 small Allen screws, they must be installed with Loctite!

I found I had to lift the ABS unit higher to get my old stubby fingers underneath so I wedged a piece of a 2 x 4 under it. I also found those screws so hard to turn with a short Allen wrench that I ended up making up a small Allen wrench socket by sawing off a bit of the wrench and sticking it into a 4mm socket (I used a bit of making tape to make it fit snugly). Before reassembling I took the 3 screws over to my bench top grinder which is also fitted with a fine wire brush and cleaned the threads of any Loctite residue which made screwing them in easier.

I also decided to reinsert the plastic connector plug that I had cut the wires from before replacing the switch assembly as I saw it had an o-ring. I figured it might be good to keep the inside of the ABS unit free from any moisture buildup.

No lights on yet so I will just have to drive it for a while and wait and see if this fixed it!

Like i said in the write-up. You must KNOW what error codes you have before doing this repair. If that hole on the fender is not a good ground then of course you will have the lights. that is why i used the bolt.

Im glad it worked out for you! That was a good idea re inserting the connector.

that is nice. thanks so much.

Reistance question
 

I am in the process of completing this mod to the ABS system to try to banish the amigos. I have completed all steps and am checking conitinuity per step 40. I am getting readings of 3.02, 2.02 and 1.02 KOhms. I assume this is within tolerance but just wanted to make sure I don't need to replace the switches. Thanks again for the great write up!

That's about where my readings were, your switch sounds like it is in spec.

Thanks
 

Thanks Chris, I just wanted to make sure.

I got my ABS Amigo today.Turn the ignition to II. Plug into OBDII port. Blue..Red..Blue..Blink Green. Start the truck. The 3 damn amigos are still there !! Here is the log.

--------------------------------------------------------------
|* ABS Amigo Box V1 RSW Solutions LLC Copyright 2008. *|
|* www.RSWsolutions.com *|
|* *|
|* *|
|* Version V1.1 *|
|* *|
--------------------------------------------------------------
1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
Logged Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
Logged Faults:
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
022:ECU Gnd or Reference Gnd bad
Logged Faults:
None
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------

By the way, I did it 3 times. What have I done wrong? Also I have performed Josh's re-wiring a month ago. Is there anything I can check to make sure the rewiring was completed correctly? I shouldn't get "Shuttle Valve Electric Failure" if it is successful, correct?

Thanks in advance.

Three Amigos Gone!
 

I took the gamble on option C that Josh posted and the amigos are gone. Indie shop wanted $900 for the fix. Parts and tools cost me $80. So if I split the difference with you Josh then I owe you about $400 bucks.

Like other posts, I also found the hex screws very difficult to remove and suggest to anyone else that tries this to invest the extra $5 bucks in the correct size socket set connection for the 3 hex screws underneath.

Someone really needs to make this the first option that comes up under searching for "Three Amigos". Thanks so much!

Are you sure you meant option B instead option c? I don't know of anyone who has done option C.

But anyways, glad it worked!!

Josh

PS. You can paypal me the $400.....

=)

Chris...I'm in Houston. Can you shoot me an email w/ contact info: lp@wecravesushi.com

I think I have the 3 amigos...:(

Anyone here still having success with the fix in Part B (the rewire)? How long has the fix held up? I'm about to undertake it but don't want to if the Amigos come back. I'm pretty sure the problem on my intermittent 3 amigos is the swicth as the ABS Amigo lists an intermittent shuttle valve elctrical failure (fault 114) and no other codes.

I am still having wonderful success with the fix in Part B. I haven't seen the amigos at all (minus starting engine) and I have thankfully had reliable ABS which saved my tail the other weekend when a car lost control on snowy I-25 and crossed in front of me - headlights pointed at me - with only 4 feet to spare. This fix is truly time well spent.

Great to know! Thx. I will probably do mine this weekend. Part B only. I think messing with the factory connector is a probably a waste of time in the long term.

Im still "Amigos FREE"

=)

thank you for the excellent write up! i finished this mod last night and amigos are gone for now.i did the B option with re-wire. i didnt pull the whole abs pump out, but there was a few times i thought about it. some of those bolts are really tough to get to. after that though the wiring was straight-forward and everything went back together smoothly.

update!!!!

My Amigos returned...and guess what, it was due to the ground bolt I used, (step # 41) came loose!

So.... periodically check it !

=)

Josh, the guide was impressive, but about half way through I realized that I wasn't reading Dante's Inferno, I was actually reading a repair guide. I think I'd sooner suffer a self-inflicted gunshot wound to the head than to try something like that... (or at least go without ABS).

I got in on the ABS Amigo group buy and am now closely studying Josh's guide based on below reading.

1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults


I will go with Option B.

Thanks Josh for this guide, this seems like an excellent approach.

Question on step 43
43. Peel off the wire loom shield off of the ABS Modulator wire harness. Locate the YG wire

Does that wire terminate inside that shield?
Or do I need to cut and splice the 2 new ends into the connector end? I don't see in the photo or text a step to splice another end back into the connection so wanted to make sure.

Thanks for the help

-Matt

Option B Complication
 

Option B successful and not that hard. Tried Option A for ****z and giggz but nicked the wires, really doesn't take much at all. I initially had a malfunction the first time I did B where all brakes would apply when TC should have come on so I tore it down and redid it and all is well, something must have come loose when I reassembled the first time. Thanks for the Write-up, this is probably one of the biggest cost savers out there as far a DIY.

Thanks,
Kyle

ABS Modulator Fix
 

I did this fix on the wifes 2000 DII a few weeks ago after she started having intermitent amigo's. Followed option B to the tee with exact fitment and materials. Added a little loctite to the ground screw for added insurance. Hex screws were a pain, but a 1/4 in ratchet with homeade hex bit made removal much easier.

Thanks Josh. You not only saved me money but torment at home!!

Finally did this fix - works!!!!
 

After a year finally did the Option B fix and it works great!!!! 3 assigos gone immediately after living with those idiot lights from day one. On my 2003 it was totally impossible to do option b with the Mod still in the truck. The hex bolts felt like they were in there with loctite. I am 6'2" 210lbs and pretty damn strong but no amount of torque would get them to budge. I went ahead and disconnected the hydraulic lines, pulled the Mod and did the Option B fix on a workbench. Much easier. The hassle of course is the post fix bleed. As Josh suggests, I did an initial manual bleed first (rf,lf,rr, lr - per the RaVE) then took it out for a test drive to engage Tc and HDC - NOTE: Do not test drive if you have a real spongy pedal, go back and rebleed it until you get a safe pedal. After my first bleed my pedal was about 90% normal, so I felt safe. After getting Tc and HDc to kick in a few times, I returned and did the manual bleed again. Got about 5% more pedal. I will pop for a full Testbook bleed which every mechanic I know says is necessary. Even if that's $100 this fix is well worth the time and the price. Shame on LR for not doing a recall on this defective ABS Moudlator. Thanks, Josh! This fix was a life saver - literally.

Just wanted to thank Josh again - THANKS JOSH!!! for this amazing fix. Has been a month now and I having been driving around So Cal in non stop rains, sliding around and panic stopping just to test the ABS and it works like new after I did Josh's fix. No more three amigos. Traction control works flawlessly, along with Hill descent control. Shame on LRNA for not making all dealers provide this fix on perhaps the most dangerous factory defect on our trucks.

I'm starting to get an intermittent appearance of the 3 Amigos (ugh). At this point, they will illuminate when I turn the engine on. If I turn it off and restarty, they always go away. It might go three a couple of weeks or a couple of days before it happens again. It always goes away after restarting.

I have almost 115K miles on my 2004 Discovery. I've recently replaced the rotors and and pads (15K miles back) and replaced the brake fluid just a week ago. The onset of the 3 amigos was before the brake fluid flush and has happened since.

I've been reading up on the ABS modulator fix. A couple of questions:

1 - I believe even the intermittent codes are stored? Do I need to wait until the 3 Amigos stay illuminated to to test with the 3 Amigo code reader? Or can I go ahead an test with them off, knowing the codes are stored?

2 - If I'm pulling the appropriate code for the "Option B" fix, can anybody point me to an online source for the right wire connector? In the write up, it is a 2 wire connector (trailer harness connector)? In looking on line, I havent seen anything exactly like that yet. Most are 4 pole connectors (4 wire). I admit that I haven't worn any shoe leather looking for this yet, but if somebody bought one online and can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it.

The intermittent codes are in fact stored however they will not display a "hard fault" leaving the amigos MIL on regardless of engine shutoff and restart. Go ahead and have the codes read, they are there regardless if your amigos aren't.

The two wire trailer connector harness I found at NAPA was $2 or something like that. I once did the job using same gauge electrical wire straight through, you can do the same and add female/male ends to have the "disconnect" function. Heck if paper clips work you can use them too. Remember my OPTION B isn't the ONE and ONLY method. It's just the ONE and ONLY out there.... =)

But since you asked..
This is EXACTLY what I used... I wish the gauge was smaller though...
ABS MOD WIRE HARNESS =)

Thanks! I've read the disclaimers...but I wanted to try to stay as straight to the instructions as possible.

I've got a lot of value from this forum in the last year. I previously had a 2000 Discovery II and traded it in at about 112K miles and got my 2004. I took the first one to the dealer for everything and spent a load of money! I should have kept that truck and invested time in doing as much of the service and repairs myself.

This time around, with the help of this forum and it members, I've taken over a lot of the work and also found an honest independent, mechanic who also drives a Discovery for the work I can't or really don't want to do! I've learned a lot about my vehicle, take a lot better care of it and spent a lot less money!

This year, I've done wires and plugs w/o removing the intake manifold, replaced the SLS airbags, new brake rotors and bled the brakes all with the help of this group. Now, on to the 3 Amigos!

Thanks, Josh! I'm a week post "Option B" and can't thank you enough for the attention you've given to this topic! I bought my Disco 3 years ago knowing that the vehicle had flagged codes for shuttle valves on its last reading, and I am so far "Amigo Free" for the first time ever for this long a time. I'll keep you updated per your questionnaire but can't get them to return despite my best efforts! I found the same plug you used in our local Advance Auto in the towing and trailer section. Thanks again!

Easy repair thanks to the really great directions. And your option B was clever.

I purchased the replacement valve assembly prior to starting the project. Everything was wired and ready to go before I opened the hood.

There was a bit of oil inside the original however it gave the correct resistance and the seals appear to be in good shape. That one goes in the spare bin.

While I may have wasted $26 + S&H, that's a whole lot better than $1400 + labor.

Thank you. So where do we deposit the dollar?

Small problem after Option B repair....

Mother Nature kindly left a test pad of ice in the driveway and I've found that the ABS system is having issues. Here's the problem...

Apply hard brake...anti-lock thumping...release brake...anti-lock continues to thump...car stops.

AND

Depress accelerator...wheel spin...traction control kicks on...release accelerator...ABS kicks on...car stops (no brake applied)

I tried bleeding the brakes...That didn't help. Tonight I will take it all apart and put it back together to see if I can find anything.

Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

ABS Amigo info below...

1. Current Faults
Active faults: None
Logged Faults: 114...Shuttle Valve Electric Failure

Previous Faults
Active Faults 022:ECU GND or Reference Gnd bad
Logged faults: none

Previous Faults
Active Faults: Comms Error
Logged Faults: Comms Error

Pulled the modulator out completely and tore it down. Cleaned everything carefully, reassembled and reinstalled. After bleeding the brakes I took the truck for a test run. All good. :D Another bleed and the job will be done.

Incidentally the 2 sets of "previous" codes above came from the factory. I only downloaded once after receiving the device this afternoon.

For anyone considering whether or not to remove the modulator completely I found it easier than working in situ (not to mention the better result).

Thanks again.

I tested mine with the ABS Amigo and only had the 114 error code, so I'm going to try the "Option B" fix tomorrow. If I only remove the SVS cover and don't remove the entire unit or disconnect the brake lines, do I still need to bleed the brakes after making the option the B fix? Or, am I done after putting it all back together (step 46)? I just bled my brakes about 2 weeks ago!