I have the four amigos, all the brake lights that could possibly go on. I was advised that swapping in a different, presumably working WABCO unit would be a good way to eliminate that as the problem. I tried this, but no luck. Does anyone know if I should disconnect the battery or otherwise reset the electrical?
The light are on the vast majority of time, but not always, which makes me think it is something electrical, a wire occasionally is not lose or something.

The next step I think is a scanner to see where the fault is, but this was the path of least resistence.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

I don't think the lights will go away on their own, even if you change components. You need to use a code reader to do that.
How do you know that the replacement part you installed was good?

 

mollusk: I am following this thread as I have the three amigo problem also. Do you have a recommendation for an ABS code reader?

 

I have a HawkEye, an iCarsoft LRII, and a Foxwell NT650 Elite. I would not recommend this particular model of Foxwell, but I understand that some of them actually do work well. The iCarsoft is a decent entry-level reader for the Rover, but it does not allow you to program any settings. It does allow you to reset codes though.
I think the HawkEye is second only to the Nanocom in terms of capabilities for Rovers (unless you have a professional unit like a Testbook or Snap-On), and so is priced accordingly.

 

Yep the SLABS unit will store faults. Also unless the replacement Wabco ABS Modulator is new I'd certainly inspect the shuttle valve Switches and honestly do Option B while you have it out. Then once that is done you would know that part of the system is good, read the fault codes, clear them then go for a drive if the 3/4 Amigos come back you probably have a connector issue or ABS sensors/Hub issue.

 

Thanks, I did the Option B still getting Amigos, the four lights is what makes me think it is something else, the brakes are all new.
Ill find a computer to clear it and see what happens, i do not know that the replacement is good, but should be. Its easier enough to plug it in.
Sounds like I just need a computer.

 

No, it sounds like you need to check and clear any codes before firing the parts cannon at the problem.

 

Yep you could toss all brand new parts on it, but without reading/clearing the faults the lights will never clear. The old battery disconnect trick really doesn't work on a D2 especially ABS/TC/HDC wise.