first off, the below link is expired. any advice on where to find it?

http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-svs-seals.html

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...r-works-67465/ Has no pictures.

Second, I know it has been discussed adnauseum, but for my edification. There are two repairs to do, the rubber seals that can be accessed from the top and the electronic, black switch from the bottom. Which looks to be duplicate?

Can I just do the valves, as I do not have someone to help with the bleeding. In the bmw when I replaced the abs unit in its entirety I did not have to bleed it, would the rover work well enough to drive it to a shop to have them flush the brakes?

Is the $75 part which attaches from underneath just the better repair? Or, is that a separate issue altogether?

For what it is worth, it does not appear to be leaking fluid from underneath. I have the 4 amigos, the usual three plus the Brake light.

Finally, any advice for parts and service in Central NJ? Princeton area, the dealer is only there from 8-5.

Thanks in advance.

 

You don't have to disconnect the brake lines to do the option B fix. (copied and pasted below) I didn't disconnect mine. It makes it tough to do, as you're working on the bottom of the modulator, but it's better than having to bleed it.

As I recall, you just unbolt and lift the modulator out, unscrew the circuit board on the bottom to get at the shuttle switch. Then you test the shuttle switch as there are two possible problems - A. the switch has failed or B. the circuit board has failed. If it's A, you technically need a new switch, though I did cut mine apart and resolder a bad joint which fixed it. If it's B, you bypass the circuit board.

However, no matter if it's A or B, you also bypass the circuit board as they are prone to failure. That's where the option B fix applies. The fix is to cut the plug off the shuttle switch, mount a male universal trailer type plug to the wires from the switch, then find the YG wire in the loom, cut it and run it to the female plug, with the other wire from the female plug going to ground.

Double check all this with what is posted below, but I'm trying to fill in the gaps left by the lack of pictures. I hope his site comes back up; there was a lot of good info on that site.





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OPTION B

This option is my favorite. It allows one to fix their SVS fault the fastest and is a more permanent repair compared to OPTION A.

So how does this work?

Answer: The SLABS ECU uses one wire to get a signal from the SVS. The signals the SLABS ECU monitors are; SVS CLOSED, OPEN, or ONE OPEN, ONE CLOSED. If the SLABS ECU senses an open in the circuit, the Three Amigos pay a visit. So having messed up the SVS plug circuit board I needed to find a way to replicate this "monitoring" by bypassing the circuit board completely, I needed to figure out the missing link between the YG wire and the two pins on the circuit board. As it turned out, one SVS pin went to ground, and the other went to the YG wire. THAT WAS IT!

I tested it using a customer's DII. I took my SVS and placed it on the customer's ABS pump. I cut into his YG wire, ran a wire from there to the SVS plug, then ran another separate wire from ground to the other pin on the SVS plug. I tested for Ohms and boom... I passed at OPEN, CLOSED, and ONE Open.

That told me that I don't need to do OPTION A.... EVER... I don't need to mess with that little SVS circuit board and risk cutting it up. It became clear this method was better.
Hopefully I have won you over on your decision to do option B.... so let's do it!




37. You need to decide how you want to connect and run the wires. Read through all of OPTION B to get a better understanding. I chose a trailer connector harness for a few bucks. I cut my connector 3/4 of the length.
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38. Remove your SVS any method you desire, Option A, or Option B without removing the modulator side (see steps # 25 through # 29) Cut SVS plug, but unlike my cut illustrated below, cut as close to the plug as possible.
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39. Splice, solder, and heat shrink the longer end of the trailer connector to the SVS wires and run them through the SVS cover plate.
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Picture
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40. Now to test the connections.
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BOTH open, PASSED.
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ONE Closed, PASSED.
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BOTH Closed, PASSED.
41. Now to find a close ground.... Since the YG wire we need to tap into runs along side the A/C line bracket retaining bolt.. Why not use it?
****UPDATE April 22, 2010****

The Three Amigos returned in April 2010 as a result of this bolt coming loose. I may not have tightened it well when I did it the first time back in November 2009 so torque it good, and add loctite. I plan to check the bolt every oil change. In addition to using that bolt as a ground, ensure that it is free of dirt or rust or anything that would diminish a good electrical contact.
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42. Take your other end of the harness and crimp a connector to secure to the ground bolt. Heat shrink it to provide better protection and it also just looks better.
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43. Peel off the wire loom shield off of the ABS Modulator wire harness. Locate the YG wire. Cut it in half but in such a way to leave enough length for your harness.
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44. Take the second wire from your trailer harness and splice, solder, and heat shrink it into the YG wire coming from the main harness end NOT the end going backt to the modulator plug.

Connect the ground wire to the ground bolt.

Based on comments and feed back, I should add and clarify that the remaining end of the YG wire (the end attached to the plug) will just get tucked back into the loom as it is now dead.

Note** It does not matter which wire of the Trailer harness goes to ground or the YG wire. In other words, it doesn't matter which wire from the SVS goes to either GROUND or the YG wire as long as ONE goes YG wire, and the SECOND to GROUND. (So in my case I could have chosen either white or red wire)
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This is what it looks like plugged up.
45. Everything installed, tested, no Amigos, no SLABS trouble codes. Installation is the reverse of removal for any method chosen to remove the SVS.
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.

46. After everything is re-installed, turn the engine on and look at your dash board. You shouldn't have any lights on. Congratulations if you don't. If you DO, double check your work and connections. Re-scan for codes.

47. If you have access to an ABS capable scanner, get a reading and clear any current and/or historical faults. Any faults that reappear should not be related to the shuttle valves. If your only fault was the 114 SVS Electrical Failure, like mine, then you know it only appears when the SLABS ECU picks up an OPEN circuit signal and resets itself after the engine is shut off. No need for an ABS code scanner.
FROM THIS......
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TO THIS
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48. If you disconnected brake lines...
Bleed the brakes. You can use the traditional method with a helper following this sequence: Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front left. Brake pedal may still feel spongy.

49. Go for a test drive and try to get the ABS and TC to kick on. Find a good incline to test HDC or on a flat ground, accelerate and let off the pedal and HDC should kick in, slowing you down. You must actuate these functions in order to get the trapped air out during the final bleed.

50. Re- bleed the brakes. It is very important to do this last step after you successfully activate TC/HDC/ABS so that the trapped air in the modulator is expelled.

 

I did this repair last week.

Bleeding the system is straightforward. It took me 10 minutes with a helper. It's a good idea to flush the whole system with brake fluid anyway. My system was filled with disgusting black fluid, which is hardly going to help with long term life of the ABS unit, or anything else. So I just bled the front right, topping off the fluid, until it came through clear. Then the other 3 wheels are pretty quick.

The issue is that often, the shuttle valve switches fail because of leaking shuttle valve seals. The switches don't like being soaked in brake fluid. When you take the switches out, if the outside of the switches is all wet, you'll know the seals are bad. I don't know who told you you access the seals from above, this is not true. The shuttle valve seals are accessible from below, when the switches are off.

It would be impossible to do a good job on the seals without taking the unit out of the car. It took me an hour or so with the unit on the dining table, while watching old Star Trek episodes. (NB, this part is essential. Whatever you do, don't undertake this repair without an old Star Trek episode or two.)

Now the three amigos come on, but much less often. Once in 300 miles now, while it was every trip. I suspect I'll be taking the unit out again to do the wiring mods.

So the moral is : do it right, or do it again and again. By right, I mean change the switches, the shuttle valve seals, do the wiring mods, and flush it with new fluid.

The only place you can get the seals is Falconworks. They do a kit of the switches, and seals. (or one, or the other)

 

+1 Totally agree MarkSF. There's a 50/50 chance after 10-15 years the seals are blown which causes shuttle valve corrosion and as you say, impossible to access from underneath and requires total modulator removal It would be a waste to install new shuttle valves only to have the 3 amigos return in a few weeks/months. I'm going to replace the shuttle valve seals when I do the shuttle valve electrical mod (already bought the pre modded valve kit and seals).

 

Some interesting info on the subject:

abs shuttle valve seals? please help? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

 

Thanks for all the info. I think my course of action is use the Falcon kit, I have emailed them, to replace all the parts, and see how that goes. I will have to figure something out for the brake bleeding. Perhaps I will rent a one man brake bleeder. Probably needs new fluid anyway.

I will post once its all done. Maybe even some additional picutes.

 

Good plan!

Might also be worth doing the electrical checks in technical bulletin 0017.

 

Before you try to repair the ABS, get the codes read first, I believe there are 48 plus fault codes that can throw the 3 Amigos. If you don't do this, you are waisting your time.

 

I pulled old codes and consistently get 1590. Its not the dealer grade code reader.
my thoughts are I could $100 for a dealer to diagnose it. And spend half the day and probably end up in the same spot.
Or I cam spend the same money and time and actually accomplish something, if not improve the truck.

Thanks for the insight

 

I was aware jyscala sold his Disco and anticipated the site going down at some point in time. I saved and converted his pages into pdf last year for my own reference.


Here is his info on the ABS repair.