ABS repair question
#1
ABS repair question
I had yet another 3 amigos visit this week so I decided to tear the modulator down and test the connection points. I found a bad solder joint, so I fixed it. (only thing I learned in college was how to soldier) Now I have this exposed circuit board. Should I epoxy this? (and I know my garage is a mess)
#2
#6
Opening the ABS module is a piece of cake, you remove the nine allen bolts from the face with the plug and it just slides off. The actual sealing surfaces are the plungers, and not the face.
The trick part is removing the material to get to the circuit board. I first used a hand hack saw blade to cut it down, then an exacto knife to get the rest off. You have to work carefully as to not damage the board.
For this reason I can see why the $800 kit is what the line techs replace. It's far too much work for the guy making flat rate to cut that plastic material off.
#8
Update, both of the pins are broken as well. The pins taper down to a smaller spike that sits on the board. Both are broken after plugging the shuttle valves back in. I've made some jumper wires and soldered them to the pins, plugged the shuttle valves back in an no codes.
Right now I have the modulator half plugged in, and the electrical half plugged in sitting on the intake manifold. (divorced from each other) I'm headed to Radio Shack to see about some new pins. If they don't have something like it I'm going to use jumper wires soldered to the old pins, which appears to be a better solution actually.
[img=http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2821/discoabs3.jpg]
Right now I have the modulator half plugged in, and the electrical half plugged in sitting on the intake manifold. (divorced from each other) I'm headed to Radio Shack to see about some new pins. If they don't have something like it I'm going to use jumper wires soldered to the old pins, which appears to be a better solution actually.
[img=http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2821/discoabs3.jpg]
#9
OK, fixed. I did away with the pins that the shuttle valves plug into. Frankly, they are junk at best. I ran two wires from the pin circuit board up though the passage to the shuttle valve connector. Next I cut the plug off on the shuttle valve. I then soldered the connections together, bench tested and success.
Next I put the ABS unit back together, plugged it in and scanned the SLABS computer, everything clear. Scanner reports that the shuttle valves are OK, my three amigos are gone.
On to the road test, 30 MPH panic stop, ABS is working. Next, off road test, also good (living nest to the middle of nowhere is good for this) Hill decent and TC both work in mud and snow.
Whoever invented that connector needs to be flogged. It's both heat sensitive and vibration sensitive. Replacing the pins with wire has solved this, the excess wire dampens the shock, and I used a higher temp solder than the factory used. Dummies.
Next I put the ABS unit back together, plugged it in and scanned the SLABS computer, everything clear. Scanner reports that the shuttle valves are OK, my three amigos are gone.
On to the road test, 30 MPH panic stop, ABS is working. Next, off road test, also good (living nest to the middle of nowhere is good for this) Hill decent and TC both work in mud and snow.
Whoever invented that connector needs to be flogged. It's both heat sensitive and vibration sensitive. Replacing the pins with wire has solved this, the excess wire dampens the shock, and I used a higher temp solder than the factory used. Dummies.
#10