I had yet another 3 amigos visit this week so I decided to tear the modulator down and test the connection points. I found a bad solder joint, so I fixed it. (only thing I learned in college was how to soldier) Now I have this exposed circuit board. Should I epoxy this? (and I know my garage is a mess)

 

The only problem I see with epoxying would be that you can never get to it again. Is there enough clearance to heat shrink it? If not use some of that liquid electric tape or liquid plastic.

 

Heat shrink, good idea, I'll try that.

 

Forgot to add, I was able to remove the ground pin on that board by hand. It really just fell out.

 

Thanks for posting let us know if the fix works. Also how hard was it to crack open the module? Did you try the shuttle valve kit first?

 

I tried the shuttle valve fix first, which at first seemed to fix the problem. However a week later and my three friends were back. Same code "114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure"

Opening the ABS module is a piece of cake, you remove the nine allen bolts from the face with the plug and it just slides off. The actual sealing surfaces are the plungers, and not the face.

The trick part is removing the material to get to the circuit board. I first used a hand hack saw blade to cut it down, then an exacto knife to get the rest off. You have to work carefully as to not damage the board.

For this reason I can see why the $800 kit is what the line techs replace. It's far too much work for the guy making flat rate to cut that plastic material off.

 

Yeah a mechanic is never going to take the trouble to do that. Let us now how he repair works out.

 

Update, both of the pins are broken as well. The pins taper down to a smaller spike that sits on the board. Both are broken after plugging the shuttle valves back in. I've made some jumper wires and soldered them to the pins, plugged the shuttle valves back in an no codes.

Right now I have the modulator half plugged in, and the electrical half plugged in sitting on the intake manifold. (divorced from each other) I'm headed to Radio Shack to see about some new pins. If they don't have something like it I'm going to use jumper wires soldered to the old pins, which appears to be a better solution actually.



[img=http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2821/discoabs3.jpg]

 

OK, fixed. I did away with the pins that the shuttle valves plug into. Frankly, they are junk at best. I ran two wires from the pin circuit board up though the passage to the shuttle valve connector. Next I cut the plug off on the shuttle valve. I then soldered the connections together, bench tested and success.

Next I put the ABS unit back together, plugged it in and scanned the SLABS computer, everything clear. Scanner reports that the shuttle valves are OK, my three amigos are gone.

On to the road test, 30 MPH panic stop, ABS is working. Next, off road test, also good (living nest to the middle of nowhere is good for this) Hill decent and TC both work in mud and snow.

Whoever invented that connector needs to be flogged. It's both heat sensitive and vibration sensitive. Replacing the pins with wire has solved this, the excess wire dampens the shock, and I used a higher temp solder than the factory used. Dummies.

 

You can heat small sheets of ABS quite effectively and uniformly in a home style convection oven.
Here at work we use weld-on solvent adhesive for the ABS...works very well.