Just did Josh's abs fix B to no avail. I had no way of scanning the system and was doing the master cylinder grommet and seal repair so figured what the hey.
After dong some other research I see you can check the OHMS of the sensors at the plug junction or at the wire harness itself. Can anyone tell me if they have found a diagram of the harness showing what pins go to what wheel sensors? I 'm getting steady readings at the front two sensors ( plugs) of 1.08 but that seems low and 1.5 or so seems to be the right range?
thanks........

 

Is this what you are looking for?

From the RAVE>>>ABS pin locations-Details.pdf<<<

 

Hey thanks, I had just found a utube of the same thing. I was actually looking for a way using the harness going directly into the ABS unit. I found a similar vid on how to check the ohms for each wheel abs sensor from the abs harness. May not be applicable to the Rover. I pulled each wheel sensor at the plug anyway and pretty much got all the same readings. 1028 for one and 1084 for the other 3.
Not sure where my 3 amigos stems from as I've done the shuttle valve repair and all the sensors seem to be in range. If they are in range can you still get a fault from a dirty or clogged abs sensor at the wheel? So I guess what I'm saying is if the sensor is good but the location is faulty due to debris will it toss a 3 amigos? I had a leaky Brake Res. and prior too the rebuild I had intermittent 3 amigos . Now that it sat for a while and it all leaked out I'm guessing it went into the sensor housing as the wheel well was covered in brake fluid. . Going to pull it out and post............

 

No one can tell you what the problem is until you get it scanned. You can purchase ABS scanners inexpensively now a days or rent one from someone on here.

 

yea I know that is the only sure way..... I'm just anxious to get this back on the road after a tranny and t-case replacement that I did ; had some time to kill so I thought I would check the obvious. I'll have to locate a scanner........looks like you've done some brake work based on your Bio. Did you have trouble bleeding the system after the ABS work?
I did the master rebuild as the grommets were bad and can not for the life of me get the primary side to bleed. I bench bled and then tried several other methods to NO avail. The secondary side builds pressure at the master, the abs unit and at the calipers in a matter of a few pumps. the Primary just blows air and bubbles back and forth. I took it apart 3 times to inspect the seal work and possible malfunctions and can not find anything. It worked perfect before the Grommet work. I even blew it out with compressed air today and back pressured it and it nearly blew my hand off with the pressure from the piston. No leaks in to the drum either. I can not even get fluid out of the master/brake-line connection junction never mind at he abs or calipers. Somehow it pushes some air an not fluid but does not leak. so Kinda stumped here????? any clues?
Thanks.....

 

On a Discovery I you can short pins on the OBDII to make the WABCO controller blink out the fault codes.

Not sure if this applies to a D2 or not.

I would assure your wheel bearings on each wheel is tight.
Around a good corner, the wheel will tilt and may get the sensor a mm or more away from the reluctor on the toothed wheel and throw a fault.

On a D1 you can move the sensors more outward toward the wheel
by tapping on the sensor carefully with a blunt rod and a hammer.

D2? NOt sure.

 

I have never had a problem bleeding the brakes. I have done it the old fashion way by pumping and also using a pneumatic brake bleeder. However my master cylinder has recently started leaking so, I guess I will be replacing the seals shortly.

Here is what I have used with great success:
Brake Fluid Bleeder
OTC 4599 - Brake Bleeder Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

yea after paying $100 for the grommet kit and now having days worth of aggravation trying to isolate the issue I wish I had just bought a re-manned master and re-used the res.
That way you get all new inner seals and new grommets anyways. I honestly think, after looking at many diagrams on how masters work, that the Rear Seal is toast. If you do the Grommet repair be careful NOT to move the piston at all. When you take off the Yellow rear cap ( the fluid cap w/the little tube that goes through the fire-wall side square grommet) to replace the 3 rubber seals the piston now can move side to side. After kicking around all "what the hell happened" scenarios when I took it apart I believe that I twisted the piston to one side and disrupted the inner seal. The inner seal controls the pressure output to the Primary side ( Lf and RR) and It doesn't leak because there is another seal and washer at the back of the yellow plastic cap. I have Secondary Pressure because there is a separate piston and set of seals.
Guess I'll be buying another Master as I've tried and thought of every possibility and that's the only thing that makes sense.