ACE system leaking bad...
#21
hi everyone!
I am bringing this topic up as I have a significant leak on my ACE as well (drains the reservoir in 1 day). I have located the leak already, it's one of the flexible hose going from the hard line to the front actuator (below the battery, basically), that rubbed on to something somehow and is leaking bad
my question is: how are you supposed to replace that hose? I have tried to unscrew it from the hard line but with no success.
I am bringing this topic up as I have a significant leak on my ACE as well (drains the reservoir in 1 day). I have located the leak already, it's one of the flexible hose going from the hard line to the front actuator (below the battery, basically), that rubbed on to something somehow and is leaking bad
my question is: how are you supposed to replace that hose? I have tried to unscrew it from the hard line but with no success.
#23
thanks Mike, but I have rave already. After checking it again and re-reading completely the 5 pages about the ACE, I think that is just another strange/questionable design from an LR engineer
Rave says that the entire line (from the block to the actuator) is mounted as one piece on the frame, when I first read it I thought it was talking about the hard line - but I think it's really from the block to the banjo on the actuator, as in, the flexible stainless steel 18" braided hose is non-serviceable. Rave says that for repairs, the entire line (~8') comes in 2 parts. I don't even want to imagine how much LR would ask to do it.
That's where my dremel comes into the game... I am going to cut the flexible line and replace it with some high pressure power steering line. The only unknown is whether a t-bolt clamp will hold the pressure. I think so but I might be wrong
by the way Mike - what's the procedure to bleed the ACE? And to erase the error code from the ACE ECU?
My OBD reader don't get any code from the main ECU
Rave says that the entire line (from the block to the actuator) is mounted as one piece on the frame, when I first read it I thought it was talking about the hard line - but I think it's really from the block to the banjo on the actuator, as in, the flexible stainless steel 18" braided hose is non-serviceable. Rave says that for repairs, the entire line (~8') comes in 2 parts. I don't even want to imagine how much LR would ask to do it.
That's where my dremel comes into the game... I am going to cut the flexible line and replace it with some high pressure power steering line. The only unknown is whether a t-bolt clamp will hold the pressure. I think so but I might be wrong
by the way Mike - what's the procedure to bleed the ACE? And to erase the error code from the ACE ECU?
My OBD reader don't get any code from the main ECU
#25
It takes less then 5 minutes to crawl under and check the pump, hoses, pipes to the front and back actuators and the control unit. Go check and find them cause if you are leaking that much it will show up like a major leak.
When you find it get back to us and let us know where it is leaking so we can help you.
When you find it get back to us and let us know where it is leaking so we can help you.
#26
It takes less then 5 minutes to crawl under and check the pump, hoses, pipes to the front and back actuators and the control unit. Go check and find them cause if you are leaking that much it will show up like a major leak.
When you find it get back to us and let us know where it is leaking so we can help you.
When you find it get back to us and let us know where it is leaking so we can help you.
#28
I got a high pressure line custom made for $45 - so far so good. I didn't check the price at Land Rover but last time I asked for some bolts they were like $8 each... so I don't want to imagine the price for the line.
Is it the same as me that you have leaking (from the front actuator to the main valve under the rear passenger door)?
I never got a reply on the bleeding procedure but it seems to be working fine.
I had to top the level a couple of time after I test drove the truck - so I am guessing that most of the air got off by itself
Note: the system is very high pressure (2000psi if I recall from Rave). The first line I got made was "power steering grade" and blew after 2 hard curves. The shop made it again with some "truck grade" connections good for 20000psi and now it's fixed
Is it the same as me that you have leaking (from the front actuator to the main valve under the rear passenger door)?
I never got a reply on the bleeding procedure but it seems to be working fine.
I had to top the level a couple of time after I test drove the truck - so I am guessing that most of the air got off by itself
Note: the system is very high pressure (2000psi if I recall from Rave). The first line I got made was "power steering grade" and blew after 2 hard curves. The shop made it again with some "truck grade" connections good for 20000psi and now it's fixed
#29
ACE flexible pipe
I have just encounterd the same problem with the ACE flexible pipe wearing through below the battery box.. do you know what parts were used (any identification) to repair the pipe or did they replace? I have tried to get repair parts in the UK and am having difficulty and was it done in situ?
Regards
Regards
#30