Acute stalling problem
#1
Acute stalling problem
Hello to all,
I may be a new registrant, but I have been using this forum site to solve and fix many issues with my wife's 02 Disco. I have the utmost respect to those that donate their time helping others. I haven't ever registered to say thank you, but I am now. I wouldn't have posted this problem unless I had exhausted several searches for the past two weeks. Most of the threads ended with the problem resolved....unfortunately, mine hasn't.
2002 Discovery II *Daily driver
Truck Mileage 120K
Engine Mileage 72K (bought with a rebuilt) Non SAI
Gas engine
Owner's husband: poor, mechanically inclined but lacks advanced diagnostic tools. I'm too old to be pulling engines, but not afraid of most shop repair jobs.
My wife stalled out on the way home and it seemed that the fuel pump was going out. You would have to pump the gas to keep it running. This progressively got worse. The local parts place coded it on my wife's way home, and as I recall, it was misfires. She lost the printout, and the truck won't make it back to town on its own. I ordered a non SAI pump, only to find a SAI pump installed. New pump installed, and it idled in my driveway for 15 mins. with no problems. Next day, stalled out in the driveway. With a few hours of searching, I bought a crankshaft sensor and replaced it. Still the same. I called Platinum Motorsports in Lagrange KY (our local LR guru), and the owner suggested plug wires since in had been a few years. No change. He also suggested if the wires didn't fix it, it might be a blown coil, so I just got done replacing the coils and plugs. No change.
I had a 82 Ford EXP (five speed) that would act like this due to a vacuum line. The damn thing would die if I was not giving it gas... Could this be something as simple as a vacuum line I've missed?
I just spent the last 3 hours tearing the upper engine apart and I didn't see anything unplugged.
Currently the engine will start and immediately bypass cold idle and start to stall. If you give it gas, the rpms drop and then momentarily recover. If you pump the gas to where the rpms exceed 2500 the service engine light will blink until I get off the gas. It will idle on its own for awhile and then die. No power in gear and rpms drop to about 600 and it eventually stalls. It is acting just like the day it stalled. No overheating issues since we have owned it.
If I have missed a forum thread that details this issue, I haven't been able to find it and I apologize for this new post.
Any help would be grateful,
-Rufus
I may be a new registrant, but I have been using this forum site to solve and fix many issues with my wife's 02 Disco. I have the utmost respect to those that donate their time helping others. I haven't ever registered to say thank you, but I am now. I wouldn't have posted this problem unless I had exhausted several searches for the past two weeks. Most of the threads ended with the problem resolved....unfortunately, mine hasn't.
2002 Discovery II *Daily driver
Truck Mileage 120K
Engine Mileage 72K (bought with a rebuilt) Non SAI
Gas engine
Owner's husband: poor, mechanically inclined but lacks advanced diagnostic tools. I'm too old to be pulling engines, but not afraid of most shop repair jobs.
My wife stalled out on the way home and it seemed that the fuel pump was going out. You would have to pump the gas to keep it running. This progressively got worse. The local parts place coded it on my wife's way home, and as I recall, it was misfires. She lost the printout, and the truck won't make it back to town on its own. I ordered a non SAI pump, only to find a SAI pump installed. New pump installed, and it idled in my driveway for 15 mins. with no problems. Next day, stalled out in the driveway. With a few hours of searching, I bought a crankshaft sensor and replaced it. Still the same. I called Platinum Motorsports in Lagrange KY (our local LR guru), and the owner suggested plug wires since in had been a few years. No change. He also suggested if the wires didn't fix it, it might be a blown coil, so I just got done replacing the coils and plugs. No change.
I had a 82 Ford EXP (five speed) that would act like this due to a vacuum line. The damn thing would die if I was not giving it gas... Could this be something as simple as a vacuum line I've missed?
I just spent the last 3 hours tearing the upper engine apart and I didn't see anything unplugged.
Currently the engine will start and immediately bypass cold idle and start to stall. If you give it gas, the rpms drop and then momentarily recover. If you pump the gas to where the rpms exceed 2500 the service engine light will blink until I get off the gas. It will idle on its own for awhile and then die. No power in gear and rpms drop to about 600 and it eventually stalls. It is acting just like the day it stalled. No overheating issues since we have owned it.
If I have missed a forum thread that details this issue, I haven't been able to find it and I apologize for this new post.
Any help would be grateful,
-Rufus
The following users liked this post:
Lisa Bunch (01-07-2018)
#2
#3
The gas pedal moves the throttle plate(butterfly valve),
The Throttle Position Sensor reads this movement,
The Mass Air Flow Sensor reads the change in air intake.
There is also a device called an Idle Air Solenoid, a pricey item that might need cleaning.
Download the RAVE manual.
Clean the throttle body, especially where the edges of the plate meet the body stop.
Clean the IAC.
Make sure your throttle and cruise control cables are adjusted properly,
Clean the MAF sensor with electrical cleaner (carb cleaner is too harsh)
This is low cost and easy stuff (you did keep those spare parts you removed?).
Keep us informed,
L.
The following 2 users liked this post by Lisa Bunch:
number9 (01-07-2018),
shanechevelle (01-21-2018)
#4
#5
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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Sounds like MAF sensor, located in air intake tube.
My 01 was acting the same way (after a drowning incident, but they can just fail over time). It would only idle, no acceleration, could get some acceleration if you butterflied the throttle some (but nothing consistent).
Ordered one off of Amazon...got tired of waiting...no MAF after three weeks...so, order one from Rock Auto...maybe 60 some bucks...delivered in three days. Runs like a charm now.
Brian.
My 01 was acting the same way (after a drowning incident, but they can just fail over time). It would only idle, no acceleration, could get some acceleration if you butterflied the throttle some (but nothing consistent).
Ordered one off of Amazon...got tired of waiting...no MAF after three weeks...so, order one from Rock Auto...maybe 60 some bucks...delivered in three days. Runs like a charm now.
Brian.
Last edited by The Deputy; 01-08-2018 at 11:05 AM. Reason: grammar, spelling...you name it.
#6
Thanks to all,
number9 - Its been cold here (single digits), but not cold enough to freeze our gas lines.
Lisa Bunch - I owned a RX8 that was really picky about keeping the MAF clean...I'll look into ordering one, or get a new can of cleaner this week. I've never cleaned an IAC, but it doesn't sound hard. I think I read somewhere that it should rattle a little? I did notice some gum around the throttle body, but didn't have a can of carb cleaner yesterday. I'll add it to my list. It will be warm here for a few days, so I should be able to pull the parts and clean them in my shop.
LR03NJ - I made damn sure those U clips were in place before I put the intake back on. Both clips fell onto the transmission housing while I was disconnecting them, and I almost lost them. I took the coil bracket off the intake, put the new coils on the bracket then attached all the plugs and both connectors (checked twice) prior to dropping the intake back on. I can be almost certain that they are still in place. I have found simple things like this to have caused days of problems...learned that lesson years ago.
Deputy- looks like the MAF is the consensus so far.
Again, thanks to all that replied. I'll post back when I have made some changes.
number9 - Its been cold here (single digits), but not cold enough to freeze our gas lines.
Lisa Bunch - I owned a RX8 that was really picky about keeping the MAF clean...I'll look into ordering one, or get a new can of cleaner this week. I've never cleaned an IAC, but it doesn't sound hard. I think I read somewhere that it should rattle a little? I did notice some gum around the throttle body, but didn't have a can of carb cleaner yesterday. I'll add it to my list. It will be warm here for a few days, so I should be able to pull the parts and clean them in my shop.
LR03NJ - I made damn sure those U clips were in place before I put the intake back on. Both clips fell onto the transmission housing while I was disconnecting them, and I almost lost them. I took the coil bracket off the intake, put the new coils on the bracket then attached all the plugs and both connectors (checked twice) prior to dropping the intake back on. I can be almost certain that they are still in place. I have found simple things like this to have caused days of problems...learned that lesson years ago.
Deputy- looks like the MAF is the consensus so far.
Again, thanks to all that replied. I'll post back when I have made some changes.
#7
Its been cold here (single digits), but not cold enough to freeze our gas lines.
Obviously not a probable cause of your issue and hope it's resolved soon.
......
#8
I too removed them the first time I accessed the coils a little over eight years ago. Luckily I didn't drop them when I reconnected the coils. I don't know how. I remember thinking it was a(nother) stupid design but then I figured it out.
#9
number9 -
You may not be far off. The missus did mention that it started to run pretty crappy after refueling. Since I already have the fuel pump plate area cut out of the rear carpet and have super easy access to the new pump, I'll check for water in the gas in a few days (should be around 65 degrees Thursday). If I find any water in it, I can wire up the old pump to run off a marine battery until the tank is empty and drain into fuel cans. While I doubt this is it....I'm kinda hoping it is....easy fix.
In the mean time, I have ordered a new MAF sensor and a used Bosch IAC valve. Should be here Friday. I'll clean the up the little gum I saw in the throttle body and on the butterfly valve in a day or two. Might be time to clean the K&N air filter while I'm waiting for my parts.
Stay tuned...
You may not be far off. The missus did mention that it started to run pretty crappy after refueling. Since I already have the fuel pump plate area cut out of the rear carpet and have super easy access to the new pump, I'll check for water in the gas in a few days (should be around 65 degrees Thursday). If I find any water in it, I can wire up the old pump to run off a marine battery until the tank is empty and drain into fuel cans. While I doubt this is it....I'm kinda hoping it is....easy fix.
In the mean time, I have ordered a new MAF sensor and a used Bosch IAC valve. Should be here Friday. I'll clean the up the little gum I saw in the throttle body and on the butterfly valve in a day or two. Might be time to clean the K&N air filter while I'm waiting for my parts.
Stay tuned...