Advice on a potential new purchase
I sold one of my 95 RRC LWB a couple years ago when I moved across the country and the other is still back east and ever since I've been wanting another Rover. I've got a lead on a 2004 Disco II for 3200. Paint is pretty scratched and interior is in fair condition. Mechanically seems fine to me. Transfer case and CDL are operating, no unusual squeaks or bad feelings in the rest of the drive-line. The owner claims the engine was rebuilt but doesn't have any receipts for it or any other work ever done to it. This makes me wary, but the engine does pull well and no ticks. It has 145k miles on it. The amigos weren't on but I forgot to check the startup light sequence when I test drove to make sure they aren't just blocked off. I tested the HDC and it seems to be working properly.
Is there anything specifically I should look at when I go back or that is particularly troublesome vs the classics. Part of wanting a new one is the fun I've always had working on them, but I also don't want to get sucked into a money pit. Would anybody else purchase this Rover or is it better left untouched? Thanks
Is there anything specifically I should look at when I go back or that is particularly troublesome vs the classics. Part of wanting a new one is the fun I've always had working on them, but I also don't want to get sucked into a money pit. Would anybody else purchase this Rover or is it better left untouched? Thanks
Without documentation "I" would have to say you have to treat it at face value.
What would a well worn04 w/145 k worth in your area.
What would a well worn04 w/145 k worth in your area.
I sold one of my 95 RRC LWB a couple years ago when I moved across the country and the other is still back east and ever since I've been wanting another Rover. I've got a lead on a 2004 Disco II for 3200. Paint is pretty scratched and interior is in fair condition. Mechanically seems fine to me. Transfer case and CDL are operating, no unusual squeaks or bad feelings in the rest of the drive-line. The owner claims the engine was rebuilt but doesn't have any receipts for it or any other work ever done to it. This makes me wary, but the engine does pull well and no ticks. It has 145k miles on it. The amigos weren't on but I forgot to check the startup light sequence when I test drove to make sure they aren't just blocked off. I tested the HDC and it seems to be working properly.
Is there anything specifically I should look at when I go back or that is particularly troublesome vs the classics. Part of wanting a new one is the fun I've always had working on them, but I also don't want to get sucked into a money pit. Would anybody else purchase this Rover or is it better left untouched? Thanks
Is there anything specifically I should look at when I go back or that is particularly troublesome vs the classics. Part of wanting a new one is the fun I've always had working on them, but I also don't want to get sucked into a money pit. Would anybody else purchase this Rover or is it better left untouched? Thanks
Last edited by drowssap; Nov 14, 2015 at 07:08 AM.
I'd be sure to check for any sign of head gasket issues, but if there's been significant engine work presumably the gaskets were replaced at some stage.
I'd also inspect the front prop shaft for any sign of impending failure, and see if the Hookes joint has grease nipples or not (if it doesn't, it hasn't been rebuilt and probably will have to be).
Look for leaks around the valve cover gaskets, which are not a big issue but are common and might help get the price down. Also check the diffs and transfer case for leaks.
Visually inspect the power steering pump too. They tend to go. Then make sure the key fob unlocks/locks all the doors, and that all doors open and close properly. Check for window operation – the regulators don't hold up well. All these things are relatively minor but again could help negotiate a better price.
That's what I can think of off the top of my head.
I'd also inspect the front prop shaft for any sign of impending failure, and see if the Hookes joint has grease nipples or not (if it doesn't, it hasn't been rebuilt and probably will have to be).
Look for leaks around the valve cover gaskets, which are not a big issue but are common and might help get the price down. Also check the diffs and transfer case for leaks.
Visually inspect the power steering pump too. They tend to go. Then make sure the key fob unlocks/locks all the doors, and that all doors open and close properly. Check for window operation – the regulators don't hold up well. All these things are relatively minor but again could help negotiate a better price.
That's what I can think of off the top of my head.
I'm in Southern California and from what I've seen it looks like 03s are in the high 2s to high 3s and 04s tend to be in the 5k range. On the RRC there was an onboard diagnostic readout under the passenger seat. Anything similar exist on the D2? Thanks
Yes there is an OBDII port under the steering column. You need to have an Indy mechanic check it out or at least bring an UG with you so you can test operating temps on the hwy/city. Also look for a rusted rear frame which would be a 4 figure bill to fix.
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