I just bought this vehicle and learned the hard lesson of not getting it checked out FIRST. It is a 2001 Discovery II SE7 with 150,000miles. I paid $2750 for it.

The interior/exterior are in decent shape and so far all the electrical items seem to work and the a/c blows cold.

I have now had it thoroughly inspected by a trustworthy mechanic and need the following:

all includes parts and labor

coil springs (convert from air to strutmasters) 475 REAL AXLE BEARING - HUB 681 BREAKS (pads, rotors) 442 Master cylinder 491 4 shocks 370 front crank seal 300 valve cover gasket 440

maintenance of the following w/ synthetics where app:
transfer case flush 640 transmission fluid
front diff/rear differential
fuel filter
air filter
oil change


TOTAL $3,800

The rear axle bearing is shot on the rear drivers side and he said it would need to be send out to a machine shop for repair.

The 2 seals are due to some oil leaks. Wondering if I should put those on hold and just make sure the oil levels are ok.

Thoughts from the forum? Should I quit while I am ahead and sell this thing?? Would you think its worth putting $3800 in a vehicle with this many miles? I am eager to hear input.

thanks!

 

Maybe you need to talk to another mechanic, specially about the quoted figures. Yes, you may have a fixer in your hand, but for half the cost it may be OK!.

 

No one here knows the depths of your pocketbook, but if it was me and I was unable/willing to do these repairs myself, I'd get rid of it and get a honda accord. These trucks demand high attention from their owners hands, and if not, then their pocketbooks.

 

sounds like the only thing that is absolutely necessary are the brakes. Even then, how much wear is left? The axel bearing should be looked at, then again that seemed expensive unless they would do the brakes at the same time and not double up on the hours that they are charging. Everything else you can wait on. See if you like the truck and then see about sinking the money into it. 150k miles isn't dreadful, but it does have miles on it. Take your time. As for the crank seal, I paid $110 parts and labor. Valve cover gaskets, might just need a little tightening, get your 12 point 8mm socket, I use the 1/4 drive size and try it out. Invest in a gallon of simple green and a spray bottle and clean it all up before you start too many projects. All the best. Phil

2001 DII
1999 DI

 

I agree, and you should be able to do the brakes yourself. We can help you with that, then with the rest of it if you want to tackle it yourself.

 

thanks for the advice... i wish i had the time to do some of this myself but with 2 kids and a 60 hour work week its not possible right now. i will look to see what i must do now and try to spread it out a bit. it seems that the axle bearing is a must and should be done while i do the breaks as the fluid will leak out of axle and kill the new break pads (hope i stated that correctly). i need to speak to the mechanic to better understand what is being done to the axle and may want to look at getting a used one rather then fixing mine.

with this forum and all the current and past posts i can take on some of the easier items. i will consider doing the fluid flushes and the shocks myself. i will give the the valve covers a quick tighten as well.

thanks!

 

Axle bearing? Do you mean the hub assembly? There is no "sending that out" you just replace them. they are pricey new but are cheap used bot that hard to install either if you have a big enough wrench. Sorry to say these trucks can be expensive to have fixed especially when you cannot tell what is really needed.

If you try to type out your post a bit more clearly with decimal point and dollar signs we might understand it better. It appears you are saying he is charging $640 for a transfer case flush, sounds ridiculous. The only way to do things cheap on these trucks is to DIY. Don't let things go too long though at that mileage the trucks tend to fall apart fast.

 

1. Are you having problems with your air suspension? If not why convert to coils. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

2. Is that supposed to read "rear axle bearing - hub"? That is something that does need fixed but $681 seems way too much. If the wheel seal is leaking it will contaminate the brake pads and make them useless.

3. Pads and rotors is about right at $442.

4. Master cylinder is about $100 part and maybe an hour to remove/replace.

5. Go with OME shocks.

6. Front crank seal is about $10 in parts and a half to install. Either they told you the wrong thing or they're trying to rip you off royally.

7. Tell them you'll take the standard rubber valve cover gaskets, not the solid gold ones. $440 to replace valve cover gaskets is absurd. For those kind of prices makes me think I should be a mechanic. Of course before you replace valve cover gaskets get a 8mm 12pt socket and tighten down the bolts. They loosen up over time and need retorqued.

8. Is the $640 to replace all the fluids in the truck for life? And what is a transfer case flush? You drain the old gear lube out and pump the new stuff in, there's no flushing to be done.

Before you spend any money you need to get a second opinion by a mechanic that specializes in Rovers. That is way too much they quoted you.

 

$640 for a transfer case flush?!?!?!?!? this guy is a rippppppppppppp. find a new mechanic.

 

Before you do anything go and get a second opinion, then a third. Just a guess here but I doubt you need half that work. Also if you set aside just one saturday afternoon you can save probably $800-1000 on labor for all those jobs.