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Just finish doing the cooling system upgrade on our discoII and installed a glowshift water temp.
Using a wifi obdII with a phone app now I can see between 5 to 7 degrees difference between the OEM sensor and the aftermarket gauge
Guess based on getting a few degrees lower with a IR at base of my temp sensor in manifold. Always good to have a backup temp gauge and know readings are fairly close together.
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did you do the inline sensor with your coolant gauge or did you tap into the existing OEM coolant sensor?
Originally Posted by Detoured Discovey
Did this to my D1, exiting water will read the same as your block, it's surprising to see a real gauge move over my factory. Oil pressure as well, who knew these things to 20 seconds to build oil pressure in full. Both are easy projects with peace of mind end results.
I'll add, both of my gauges are old school, not electric.
Mine were closer, actually the same when stone cold. Larger split at operating temp would seem to be expected. Your senor is also mounted a short distance from where max temps would likely be sensed. In days paste we didn't have any accurate reading to compare and usually just added a gauge to supplement the lone idiot light. I'd like to add one too and hope to get around to it one day.
Mine were closer, actually the same when stone cold. Larger split at operating temp would seem to be expected. Your senor is also mounted a short distance from where max temps would likely be sensed. In days paste we didn't have any accurate reading to compare and usually just added a gauge to supplement the lone idiot light. I'd like to add one too and hope to get around to it one day.
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You are dead on!when starting the truck the temps are the same and the max discrepancy is at heavy traffic.
I thought that the install of the probe on the upper rad hose and after the inle Tstat will be providing almost the most accurate reading.
quick unusual question: working on bleeding the coolant sys...is it possible that the more i bleed the lower ( couple of degrees ) on operating temp and minimal difference between gauges?
here is a pick of our mod, dyi bleeder on the far right ( lower part of upper rad hose )
It's possible you'd get less of a split once all the air is out? I really wouldn't worry about a small split such as that since you can just remember do the easy mental math to be cautious as we don't know what reading/sensor is the more accurate one.
If you can easily swap the sensor and the bleeder it would be good to raise the bleeder to the higher point. Moving the sensor a short distance shouldn't change your readings or split.
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