Does anyone know for a fact that a DII alternator will fit a DI?

 

I know a RRC will.
Need a new 120amp one?

 

LOL, yes.

I too know the RRC one will work.
I found a place online that sells amped up ones, I sent them a e-mail to find out about pricing.
I have found all kinds on e-bay from rebuilt to brand new, DII alts tend to be cheaper than DI's.
DII's put out 120 amp, DI 100.
So a DII alt would be preferred.

Do you have a line on DI alts Tom?
I am looking for new as I am tired of these piece of **** rebuilt's going bad on me.
But of course I dont want to break the bank.

 

The cases are almost the same. Since the D2 mounts on the passenger side of the engine, the offset is different (When moved to the topside in a DI, the high mount would become the low mount, and the low mount would become the high mount because of the bracket location). So when you put it on the "Topside" in a DI, it will sit a bit higher than the stock one since the offset will be reversed. This would mean a different belt would be needed (what size), I've no clue). The pulley's are definitely different sizes, but could be swapped. With the trial and error of trying to find the right size belt, and the higher sitting alternator - I'd personally not want to deal with dealing with it - but it will technically "fit".


94-95 = same size pulley
96-99 = same size pulley
99-2004 (D2) = same size pulley

What problem are ya having? I did an instructional write up on a voltage regulator swap just last week, and it really isn't difficult at all ( 2 on a scale of 1-5). I've a guy here in Seattle that can get one shipped to ya withing 24 hours for $58, and it's an original Marelli replacement instead of a Chinese knockoff (which is what they generally use in the "rebuilt" alternators then it fails within 2 years time.) The regulator is usually the problem. If you're not in a hurry, you can get 3 shipped over from the UK (takes about a week) for that same $58, use one, put one on the shelf, and sell the 3rd to cover the cost of all 3...

 

Not sure what price you would consider "breaking the bank" Spike, but I bought a new Bosch 130A alternator part# W0133-1786495 for my '01 D2 at PartsGeeek.com for $226 and very reasonable shipping rates in Dec 2009.

 

I'm running a 120amp RRC Alt on my Disco. I left the smaller RRC pulley on it so it hits peak power at lower engine RPM. The factory bench test actually shows it peaking at 140amp.
I was going to put the other one I have on ebay but haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

Here is the Readers Digest version of my alt troubles.
The original alt went bad 2 years ago with over 160k on it.
Went to AutoZone and bought a rebuilt, lifetime warranty.
Went bad after a year, replaced.
Went bad in 6 months.
Returned it and bought one from Advance Auto.
6 months, bad, replaced under warranty.
6 months, bad.
In the mean time I scored a used one for free from another forum member.
I brought the used one with me on my trip to TX because my lights were flickering, dim bright dim bright really fast, the longer the engine ran the faster they flickered.
When I changed my alt in a parking lot on my trip after driving for 2 hours the alt was so hot you could not touch it, that was even after sitting for 30 min so the engine could be cool enough to work on.

So here is where I am at, I can replace the rectifier in this junk rebuilt alt that I have for $60.
I can return this bad one and buy a brand new BOSCH for $100 more (it is actually rebuilt but they replace everything except the case, and windings) and I wont have to pay a core charge.
I can return it and buy one online and not pay a core charge.

There is nothing wrong with the truck, it is a alt problem.
The bearings went out on the original one and that is why I replaced it to begin with.

So while I am not in a hurry I still want this done and over with.
I really dont want to repair the lifetime warranty alt when it should be good anyway.

So any thoughts are appreciated.

 

There's something to be said about OEM LR parts, they do last.

That being said, I read that most often, the reg is the part that goes.

If you can find the OEM reg, thro' it in the rebuilt, hopefully you're done for another 150k

Also, you know to start the "new" alt with a fully charged batt, until the diodes cure in the rectifier ***'y - seriously

I'm sure you know, it's sometimes a crapshoot on aftermarket parts.


luck,greg

 

I'm still weighing my options.


I found out that with these rebuilts they only replace what is bad when it comes in to them, so if the bearings are bad they replace them and nothing else for example.

 

I got my alternator from this guy on e-bay and have not had any troble from it. Had it a little over a year. http://stores.ebay.com/eagleautoelectric

Walter