Did you drain anti-freeze before pulling heads? If not...that's most likely were the anti-freeze in the oil came from. Since you had to pull the lower intake/valley pan to remove heads, which would allow anti-freeze into oil pan.

Those gaskets don't look original, someone's been in there before you. Looks like you had some external combustion leaks and possible internal (cyl to cyl)...but the pictures aren't the best. It's somewhat hard to see if there was internal or external coolant leaks through the gasket...because you removed it...which distorts gasket or removes material along the way. Were all of the head bolts tight?...or did any seem easier to remove than others?

Going by the pictures alone...it looks as though the heads weren't properly torqued or warped. I don't see any marks on the steel portion of the gasket, which would signify sleeve movement.

I'd definitely check the heads for straightness.

Good luck.

 

So about the bolts, I think 1 of them wasn't that hard to remove, so that tells me that the jackass that worked on my vehicle didn't torque on the specs. I've lost faith in all these mechanic shops in my area. The shop that I took it to was a shop that I delivered parts to while I going to school. I thought they were a reputable shop but it turns they did a **** a job at everything it seems. First it nearly took them two damn months to finally finish the job, when I got it back I noticed it overheating, I popped open the hood and notice that these morons put clear caulking on the plastic nipple thats on the radiator as if that would solved the problem. And the I bought the radiator new, next I noticed that they put on the power steering pulley backwards so it was cutting into the belt, then I noticed that they didn't position the top hose that connects to the thermostat so I rubbed against a pulley causing it to get cut and eventually leak, and on top of that I noticed that I got a bunch of the gaskets back from the gasket kit I bought as a whole so that tells me that they didn't replace everything. Did I bring it back to the shop so they can un**** their mistakes? Hell no, this was 4 years ago. I fixed most of the issues myself. Anyways yeah I'll take better pictures so you can get an idea.

 

​​​​​​Yeah as I was saying to the deputy, the shop I originally hired to change the head gasket missed and didn't replace the other gaskets. I mean they did some ghetto crap like putting a freaking stud on the exhaust manifold, 3 bolts were missing on the water pump...it's so much crap. So from now on I'm doing all the work myself, I don't trust any shop to work or give me advice other than you gents.

But I'll definitely try to change the timing cover gasket, shouldn't be to hard right?
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Yeah, I would say 75% chance your issues were inflicted by your mechanic and your engine block is fine, just need new gaskets and good assembly.

FYI, the head bolt thread pockets have 1 extra thread clearance with the heads torqued, about .050". If you cut the heads close to that, the bolts can bottom and crack the block. Most do not cut them that much, so generally not a problem as long as the head bolts are not reused. However if there is any question you might think about studs.

 

Oh okay well I think they reused the head bolts. I was looking at the head gasket kit that Atlantic British has for sale and I believe one of the kits has head bolts to replace the original ones.

 

Sounds like a place to stay away from, most definitely.

You have to remove oil pan to remove front cover...oil pick up tube has to be accessed and removed from front cover from below.

As far as the "leftover gaskets"...most kits fit multiple engines...so there are always leftovers. Not defending their work in any way, shape or form...just mentioning.

Yeah, l'd get that head checked and just replace gaskets/head bolts or studs (and whatever you run into, like timing chain and gears, etc). I'm not seeing any "steam cleaning" of the pistons or marks on head gasket from slipped liner...so l'd feel pretty confident that this was just a crappy rebuild the last time.

 

It took a far crank to loosen my head bolts when I did mine, with a 3 foot breaker bar. None were "easy" although some were less difficult.

 

Oh no I wasn't expecting the bolts to be easy to break off but like the bolt towards the fire wall wasn't that hard to break off. So as I was saying to the others the mechanic shop didn't torque these down to specs.

 

Yeah I just looked over the pic's and the HG around the cylinders looks good. Also the sleeves themselves in the engine look fine. The outer water jacket part of the gasket was questionable as the red line is supposed to go all the way around the water jacket to help seal it. It's probably a combo of a bad job, re-used HG bolts, or incorrect torque, or the heads were warped and they didn't bother to check them for being warped, or they said they did it, but they didn't.... I'd have them decked or get a set of refurbished heads, then get the HG Kit from AB, Roversnorth, or Lucky8.

 

I don't mean to sound like a noob but when you say decked do you mean have the heads machined? Also yeah I'ma do everything myself, I also have pics of bank tore down. They didn't look as bad as bank as for coolant in the piston goes. Also when you said cross hatching in the sleeves, I did see what you meant.