The amigos bypass was done by the PO on my disco. When I started up yesterday(it was rainy) they came on. I shut off and restarted and they're gone. I thought once the bypass was done it was good from there on?

 

bypass? are you talking option b or a? or ........?

 

only if the shuttle valve o rings were replaced, if not it will come back.

 

Get the 'bypass' taken off and find the source of the problem. I really hate it when people resort to bodges because they can't be bothered to find the real problem.

The amigos could be; a broken wheel sensor wire or damaged sensor itself or worse case scenario a worn wheel bearing. Get a diagnostic reading to find where the fault is and go from there.

 

I agree, although replacing the shuttle valve is cheaper and quicker than going to a shop, leaving the car and paying to diagnose. At least that is out of the equation. But it could be anything. every once in a while mine fails, not worried about it, will do the by-pass at some point. But it could also be the above.
Did you reset the computer?

As far as the seals, the only thing could fix would be leaking fluid. IF you were dry in there are fine.

 

Check the POs work. It's possible his spliced wires havnt held up too well.

 

There is so much misinformation floating around about the Three Amigos and their cures.

First of all, the electrical circuit board defect corrected by the Option B bypass is only one of several problems that will result in the Three Amigos being lit. It may be that the Option B bypass failed, or it may be a wheel speed sensor or other component. The only way to know for sure is to get the ABS codes read. There was another thread on the forum in the last week or two talking about a relatively inexpensive ($140) scanner available somewhere online that will read and not only engine management codes but ABS and SRS codes also.

Second, it is NOT always necessary to replace the shuttle valves which is for the shuttle valve seals to cure an SVS fault. I did mine over four years ago following Josh's Option B instructions to the letter. The switch in my truck tested with correct continuity and resistance, and there was absolutely no evidence of brake fluid having leaked past the seals. I put all the original parts back in place after doing the bypass and all is well still four years later. I understand the argument that you "may as well" replace the switch is in the seals while you have everything torn apart but I am by nature a cheapskate and I figured that if a problem emerges with the switches or the seals later it will cost me only a couple of hours of repeat labor whereas replacing the switch and the seals would've cost me probably a couple of hundred dollars in cash at the time.

And finally, on Josh's behalf we should all take great offense to the suggestion that his Option B bypass is some kind of a botch or hack job. It is an absolutely and completely valid bypass of the faulty circuit board internal to the modulator. It preserves complete ABS function (restores it, actually). It is a hack only in that it allows an owner to avoid replacing the modulator with another one that could easily fail in the same way due to an inadequate design.

 

I agree 100%.

 

thanks all.
It hasn't come back yet. Should I just wait until it rears its ugly head or get ahead of it now?
The bypass he did was the wire up at the modulator. I'm not sure what else he did or didn't do.
I already have a standard OBDII reader (which I realize does not do chassis codes) so I'm not super keen on spending another $140 for a one time use tool, but I may have to bite the bullet. I'd be more keen on spending a bit more for a fully functional computer that can bleed my ACE too, whatever that would be.

 

If you're willing to put a little effort into it SuperSport's Autocom CDP+ thread may be what you want. There is a little chatter in it about whether or not it can bleed an ACE system but I'd bet that if it can bleed the brakes, including the modulator, it can bleed the ACE.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-vmware-64725/