Another basic speaker replacement thread
#1
Another basic speaker replacement thread
My 99 has the Harmon Kardon system, pillar tweeters, upper door mids, lower door bass, and tail door sub. I've already replaced the tail door subs with some Pyle brand(and cut the door to fit). Now I'm looking to replace the door speakers as a few of them are dead.
My Factory speakers:
Front
Are the factory speakers single way component speakers? Pillar tweeter, upper mid, lower bass? YES
I saw @Alex_M (2017) recommended disconnecting the upper door mid range speakers and using Infinity REF-6030cs in the lower door which seem to be discontinued. Crutchfield has Infinity REF-6530cx on a Black Friday deal as well as some other 2way components.
What's the consensus on basic replacement speakers today?
My New installation:
Front
My Factory speakers:
Front
Driver pillar(tweeter) - Working
Driver upper(mid) - Working but suspension has disintegrated, 2.6ohm
Driver lower(bass) - Working, 3.5ohm
Pass pillar - Working
Pass upper - Working
Pass lower - Not working
RearDriver upper(mid) - Working but suspension has disintegrated, 2.6ohm
Driver lower(bass) - Working, 3.5ohm
Pass pillar - Working
Pass upper - Working
Pass lower - Not working
Driver upper(mid) - Not working, open circuit
Driver lower(bass) - Not working, open circuit
Pass upper - Not working
Pass lower - Working
Tail Sub - Barely working
.Driver lower(bass) - Not working, open circuit
Pass upper - Not working
Pass lower - Working
Tail Sub - Barely working
Are the factory speakers single way component speakers? Pillar tweeter, upper mid, lower bass? YES
Originally Posted by "RAVE Manual"
A high range speaker located in each 'A' post trim
A low and mid range speaker located in the front doors
A low and a high range speaker located in the rear doors
Low range speakers located in a housing on the tail door
A low and mid range speaker located in the front doors
A low and a high range speaker located in the rear doors
Low range speakers located in a housing on the tail door
Originally Posted by "Alex_M proposed basic solution"
A high range speaker located in each 'A' post trim
A lowand mid range speaker located in the front doors
A low and a high range speaker located in the rear doors
Low range speakers located in a housing on the tail door
A low
A low and a high range speaker located in the rear doors
Low range speakers located in a housing on the tail door
What's the consensus on basic replacement speakers today?
My New installation:
Front
Driver pillar - Left Factory
Driver upper - MTX Terminator6s High range(3d printed insert)
Driver lower - MTX Terminator6s Low range
Pass pillar - Left Factory
Pass upper - MTX Terminator6s High range(3d printed insert)
Pass lower - MTX Terminator6s Low range
RearDriver upper - MTX Terminator6s High range(3d printed insert)
Driver lower - MTX Terminator6s Low range
Pass pillar - Left Factory
Pass upper - MTX Terminator6s High range(3d printed insert)
Pass lower - MTX Terminator6s Low range
Driver upper -
Driver lower - Relocated Front Driver lower
Pass upper -
Pass lower - Relocated Front Pass lower
Tail Sub - Replaced with Pyle(some cutting involved)
.
Driver lower - Relocated Front Driver lower
Pass upper -
Pass lower - Relocated Front Pass lower
Tail Sub - Replaced with Pyle(some cutting involved)
Last edited by Sandman614; 12-02-2022 at 03:58 PM.
#2
I would just measure the dimensions and resistance (if not stamped on the original speakers). Then go to a specialized parts distributor like Partsexpress in order to find something that fits. For mid range and tweeters the acoustic parameters are not as critical, while for bass speakers they are. The easiest way to get around it is trial and error. You will find speakers with acceptable sound, but never something which sound exactly like the original ones.
The following users liked this post:
WaltNYC (11-28-2022)
#3
I would just measure the dimensions and resistance (if not stamped on the original speakers). Then go to a specialized parts distributor like Partsexpress in order to find something that fits. For mid range and tweeters the acoustic parameters are not as critical, while for bass speakers they are. The easiest way to get around it is trial and error. You will find speakers with acceptable sound, but never something which sound exactly like the original ones.
I really want this thread to end up with 100% this is the type of speaker and ratings that are needed for a basic replacment.
#4
Here's my 2 cents from some limited speaker work and pulling off door panels,
1) All speakers are "1 way" as you listed: upper tweeter, upper door mid, lower door low, and tailgate bass (subwoofer).
2) All mixing/frequency crossover is done in the amp under the drivers seat, so it's not worth paying for a 2 way speaker because half of it won't really be used (but it's not really harmful either, so if it's all you can find- go for it).
3) I have had no success in finding the tweeters new, so it's either a parts car pull or getting an off the shelf tweeter and fabricating a custom enclosure for it.
4) If possible, cut and reuse the connectors from the stock speakers (or use your own releasable connectors), there's a good chance at some point you'll need to get back in the door panel to fix a lock or window regulator or something else that you will want to be able to quickly undo the connection.
5) Pay attention to the polarity of the speaker wire, if you get one backwards your speakers will be "out of phase" and it will sound weird, but unless you know what you're listening for you'll never figure it out. Best to test before you put the panel back on and flip the polarity if needed (another reason for using some type of connector).
1) All speakers are "1 way" as you listed: upper tweeter, upper door mid, lower door low, and tailgate bass (subwoofer).
2) All mixing/frequency crossover is done in the amp under the drivers seat, so it's not worth paying for a 2 way speaker because half of it won't really be used (but it's not really harmful either, so if it's all you can find- go for it).
3) I have had no success in finding the tweeters new, so it's either a parts car pull or getting an off the shelf tweeter and fabricating a custom enclosure for it.
4) If possible, cut and reuse the connectors from the stock speakers (or use your own releasable connectors), there's a good chance at some point you'll need to get back in the door panel to fix a lock or window regulator or something else that you will want to be able to quickly undo the connection.
5) Pay attention to the polarity of the speaker wire, if you get one backwards your speakers will be "out of phase" and it will sound weird, but unless you know what you're listening for you'll never figure it out. Best to test before you put the panel back on and flip the polarity if needed (another reason for using some type of connector).
The following 2 users liked this post by greisinb:
longtallsally (12-08-2022),
whowa004 (11-28-2022)
#5
Here's my 2 cents from some limited speaker work and pulling off door panels,
1) All speakers are "1 way" as you listed: upper tweeter, upper door mid, lower door low, and tailgate bass (subwoofer).
2) All mixing/frequency crossover is done in the amp under the drivers seat, so it's not worth paying for a 2 way speaker because half of it won't really be used (but it's not really harmful either, so if it's all you can find- go for it).
3) I have had no success in finding the tweeters new, so it's either a parts car pull or getting an off the shelf tweeter and fabricating a custom enclosure for it.
4) If possible, cut and reuse the connectors from the stock speakers (or use your own releasable connectors), there's a good chance at some point you'll need to get back in the door panel to fix a lock or window regulator or something else that you will want to be able to quickly undo the connection.
5) Pay attention to the polarity of the speaker wire, if you get one backwards your speakers will be "out of phase" and it will sound weird, but unless you know what you're listening for you'll never figure it out. Best to test before you put the panel back on and flip the polarity if needed (another reason for using some type of connector).
1) All speakers are "1 way" as you listed: upper tweeter, upper door mid, lower door low, and tailgate bass (subwoofer).
2) All mixing/frequency crossover is done in the amp under the drivers seat, so it's not worth paying for a 2 way speaker because half of it won't really be used (but it's not really harmful either, so if it's all you can find- go for it).
3) I have had no success in finding the tweeters new, so it's either a parts car pull or getting an off the shelf tweeter and fabricating a custom enclosure for it.
4) If possible, cut and reuse the connectors from the stock speakers (or use your own releasable connectors), there's a good chance at some point you'll need to get back in the door panel to fix a lock or window regulator or something else that you will want to be able to quickly undo the connection.
5) Pay attention to the polarity of the speaker wire, if you get one backwards your speakers will be "out of phase" and it will sound weird, but unless you know what you're listening for you'll never figure it out. Best to test before you put the panel back on and flip the polarity if needed (another reason for using some type of connector).
#6
2 way speakers like the Infinity's I would have recommended (wow... 5 years ago) are a great basic/budget/ease of install setup. That model appears to have been surpassed, but in general the Infinity Reference series is a good bang for the buck... or at least they used to be. My info is a bit outdated at this point, but concepts still apply.
If you're willing to put in the extra work for the increased sound quality, doing a component set with separate tweeters to install in the factory pillar location is the way to go. The Disco actually has a great sound stage from the factory in my opinion.
I do recommend bypassing the smaller upper door speakers if your Disco has them. I see your particular disco does.
In my personal setup I also bypassed the factory amp and used an aftermarket head unit, but if you are retaining the factory head unit and amp then you should be fine forgoing the crossover.
Most aftermarket tweeters can be made to mount back into the factory tweeter "frame" with some work.
Factory speaker size is 6.5" in the doors. I used 6.75" and that required a little clearancing. Your mileage may vary.
If you're willing to put in the extra work for the increased sound quality, doing a component set with separate tweeters to install in the factory pillar location is the way to go. The Disco actually has a great sound stage from the factory in my opinion.
I do recommend bypassing the smaller upper door speakers if your Disco has them. I see your particular disco does.
In my personal setup I also bypassed the factory amp and used an aftermarket head unit, but if you are retaining the factory head unit and amp then you should be fine forgoing the crossover.
Most aftermarket tweeters can be made to mount back into the factory tweeter "frame" with some work.
Factory speaker size is 6.5" in the doors. I used 6.75" and that required a little clearancing. Your mileage may vary.
#7
2 way speakers like the Infinity's I would have recommended (wow... 5 years ago) are a great basic/budget/ease of install setup. That model appears to have been surpassed, but in general the Infinity Reference series is a good bang for the buck... or at least they used to be. My info is a bit outdated at this point, but concepts still apply.
If you're willing to put in the extra work for the increased sound quality, doing a component set with separate tweeters to install in the factory pillar location is the way to go. The Disco actually has a great sound stage from the factory in my opinion.
I do recommend bypassing the smaller upper door speakers if your Disco has them. I see your particular disco does.
In my personal setup I also bypassed the factory amp and used an aftermarket head unit, but if you are retaining the factory head unit and amp then you should be fine forgoing the crossover.
Most aftermarket tweeters can be made to mount back into the factory tweeter "frame" with some work.
Factory speaker size is 6.5" in the doors. I used 6.75" and that required a little clearancing. Your mileage may vary.
If you're willing to put in the extra work for the increased sound quality, doing a component set with separate tweeters to install in the factory pillar location is the way to go. The Disco actually has a great sound stage from the factory in my opinion.
I do recommend bypassing the smaller upper door speakers if your Disco has them. I see your particular disco does.
In my personal setup I also bypassed the factory amp and used an aftermarket head unit, but if you are retaining the factory head unit and amp then you should be fine forgoing the crossover.
Most aftermarket tweeters can be made to mount back into the factory tweeter "frame" with some work.
Factory speaker size is 6.5" in the doors. I used 6.75" and that required a little clearancing. Your mileage may vary.
I might get a pair of something for the front and shuffle the good bits to the rear doors, at least until I find a better deal on something like the new model Infinity.
#9
I picked up a MTX Terminator 6s 2-way component kit. I was just looking at the LR Harman High Line wiring diagrams to see where the feeds were commoned together to determine where would be suitable to run the High pass speakers that came with my 2way kit. I spotted a note on all of the speakers that says 15watts and the headphones are 5watts. Another thing I noticed is that the Front Door low and Tail Door subs look to be on the same filtered lines E2/F2, which makes sense but the Rear Door lows look to be filtered again(inside the amp)? Would the idea be to bring the Rear Door lows up a little bit because of the full low in the Tail Door?
I guess ultimately I need to know do I use the capacitor/filter that came with the MTX high speaker or not?
.
I guess ultimately I need to know do I use the capacitor/filter that came with the MTX high speaker or not?
.
Last edited by Sandman614; 12-03-2022 at 06:34 PM.
#10
You have some options. The speaker surrounds are foam and disintegrate. You can get generic repair kits from Partsexpress to replace the surrounds.
Second option, you can still get OME replacements speakers but at a huge cost,
Third options the mids in the front doors are the same used in BMW E46 (poss E36 as well) with some trimming will fit into the original Land Rover mid enclosures, or places like Bavsound have new uprated mids which you could use. The BMW may also have the door woofers and tweeters as well, I have not checked this out.
This is presuming you are keeping the original HK amp
Second option, you can still get OME replacements speakers but at a huge cost,
Third options the mids in the front doors are the same used in BMW E46 (poss E36 as well) with some trimming will fit into the original Land Rover mid enclosures, or places like Bavsound have new uprated mids which you could use. The BMW may also have the door woofers and tweeters as well, I have not checked this out.
This is presuming you are keeping the original HK amp