Another Engine Ticking Question
#1
07-25-2010, 12:54 PM
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Another Engine Ticking Question
My 04 with 90,000 miles just started ticking. I am using 5w30 Mobil 1 but have read that when the temps are in the 90s, and it has been here in Ohio, this oil is too thin. It has been this hot and hotter the last few months so hopefully this is my issue. I read that some people use Diesel oil. I was wondering what oil they use and if I need to use any special oil filter with it. We use the shell rotella in our Diesel Pickup trucks and some of them have over 300,000 miles on them with no issues. Please comment with any other oil filter combinations.
Thanks,
Andrew
Thanks,
Andrew
#2
07-25-2010, 01:15 PM
Not really..
That is a misconception..i live in florida and it's that hot if not hotter all year around....add 30 minutes of traffic to that equasion...your ticking is probably another issue. when at operating temputure..most all oil is the same reguardless of weight..they are only different when cold...this a simple answer to your question though...some people will elaborate more on this. Yes alot of people use diesel as it has more detergents in and helps clean the engines better as these motors tend to sluge up.. Mobile one is praised by some but as it contains parifin wax ..and when wax burns it gets black....again it also materrs how you drive and service your truck....
There are 2 new synthetics on the shelf one by castro and one by pennsoil. the one by pensoil is recommended by ferrari
There are 2 new synthetics on the shelf one by castro and one by pennsoil. the one by pensoil is recommended by ferrari
#3
07-25-2010, 01:22 PM
Use any SL/SM rated HDEO. I like Mobil 1 5w40 TDT or Rotella T6 5w40 for 6000 mile oil change intervals. If you don't like synthetic then a 15w40 is good in the sumer, fall and spring. Rotella, Delo, Delvac, motorcraft, etc are all great. You may want to use the longer filter for a bit more media surface area, the numbers are Mobil 1 M1-301, K&N 3001, Napa Gold/Wix 1515/51515, purolator PL30001.
Edit: HDEO oils do have good detergency as do most synthetics and modern oils, that is not the (main) reason to use them as stated above. People like to use them in gas engines because they generally have a high TBN, high HTHS, low volatility, and generally are tough oils with higher levels of anti wear additives. I personally believe in these engines a 30 weight PCMO just does not cut it, they are just not tough enough. If you are set on 30 weight go with an HDEO like Rotella 10w30 or even SAE30.
Also just note mobil 1 does not contain paraffin wax, not sure where that is coming from, don't pick up that piece of misinformation though. Also the new pennzoil ultra that is used by ferrari (10w60 or something) is nothing like the 5w20 and 5w30 ultra you will find on the shelf. You cannot even buy the ferrari oil in a retail store. It is a good oil but the whole farrari business is just propaganda and advertising at its best.
Edit: HDEO oils do have good detergency as do most synthetics and modern oils, that is not the (main) reason to use them as stated above. People like to use them in gas engines because they generally have a high TBN, high HTHS, low volatility, and generally are tough oils with higher levels of anti wear additives. I personally believe in these engines a 30 weight PCMO just does not cut it, they are just not tough enough. If you are set on 30 weight go with an HDEO like Rotella 10w30 or even SAE30.
Also just note mobil 1 does not contain paraffin wax, not sure where that is coming from, don't pick up that piece of misinformation though. Also the new pennzoil ultra that is used by ferrari (10w60 or something) is nothing like the 5w20 and 5w30 ultra you will find on the shelf. You cannot even buy the ferrari oil in a retail store. It is a good oil but the whole farrari business is just propaganda and advertising at its best.
Last edited by lipadj46; 07-25-2010 at 02:20 PM.
#4
07-25-2010, 03:05 PM
I have been using Mobil 1 10w-40 High Millage + the K&N 3001 long filter. Have been consistant with that for 3 years since I have owned my Discovery. It gets pretty dirty as all oils do. I change it every 5000 miles.
Now Wal-Mart has it for $21 for the 5 quart container cant beat it!
I add Lucas Stop Leak every other oil change for a while and and now no more leaking from the main seal and crankshaft seal. Nice when somthing works. Dont give me any crap about Lucas products folks!
Now Wal-Mart has it for $21 for the 5 quart container cant beat it!
I add Lucas Stop Leak every other oil change for a while and and now no more leaking from the main seal and crankshaft seal. Nice when somthing works. Dont give me any crap about Lucas products folks!
#5
07-25-2010, 03:14 PM
Sorry I can't help it but that stuff is swill, just an oil thickener, no seal conditioners, no antiwear additives nothing but 100% pure thick ****. The seal conditioners in the mobil 1 HM are probably doing their jobs. Try it without the Lucas if it still leaks use a thicker oil. The fact that you can go every other OCI without the Lucas I would assume means you don't need it at all.
Last edited by lipadj46; 07-25-2010 at 03:17 PM.
#6
07-25-2010, 03:25 PM
what i ment...
ok here is what i was trying to convey...
Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
Group III oils have essentially no paraffin and wax in them..but it is still based on group II oils which have more than group III. This is just from talking to engine techs and we know they all have a different opinion...
And remember it's a LR
oil should be the least of your worries....
Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
Group III oils have essentially no paraffin and wax in them..but it is still based on group II oils which have more than group III. This is just from talking to engine techs and we know they all have a different opinion...
And remember it's a LR
oil should be the least of your worries....
#7
07-25-2010, 06:12 PM
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Should I try the heavier oil first or have the oil pressure looked at right away. I am going to be driving to Rhode Island in a few weeks and do not need any problems on the road. I read it could be a weak oil pump. My wife had the oil changed a few weeks ago and they used the 5w30 I always used the 10w40 before. What should the oil pressure be at idle and when reved up
Andrew
Andrew
#8
07-25-2010, 07:46 PM
Winching
#9
07-25-2010, 09:30 PM
ok here is what i was trying to convey...
Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
Group III oils have essentially no paraffin and wax in them..but it is still based on group II oils which have more than group III. This is just from talking to engine techs and we know they all have a different opinion...
And remember it's a LR
oil should be the least of your worries....
Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.
Group III oils have essentially no paraffin and wax in them..but it is still based on group II oils which have more than group III. This is just from talking to engine techs and we know they all have a different opinion...
And remember it's a LR
oil should be the least of your worries....
I think Mobil 1, etc. is a marketing gimmick.
My old work van, a '06 E-250 has 250,000 miles on it and still going strong and dino juice was used in it with cheap quick lube oil filters and changed every 4-5,000 miles.
As for the question on do you need to do anything special to switch to diesel oil?
No.
#10
07-25-2010, 09:36 PM
yep..
That explains why "synthetic" oil is now $21 a gallon instead of the $35 it used to be.
I think Mobil 1, etc. is a marketing gimmick.
My old work van, a '06 E-250 has 250,000 miles on it and still going strong and dino juice was used in it with cheap quick lube oil filters and changed every 4-5,000 miles.
As for the question on do you need to do anything special to switch to diesel oil?
No.
I think Mobil 1, etc. is a marketing gimmick.
My old work van, a '06 E-250 has 250,000 miles on it and still going strong and dino juice was used in it with cheap quick lube oil filters and changed every 4-5,000 miles.
As for the question on do you need to do anything special to switch to diesel oil?
No.
200k with advance auto 20 50w high milage...never a hicup besides retard over heat issues...
Im with you spike...