“A light on I could see it running down the block right in the seam of the bell housing”

This is exactly what a leak at the hard coolant line to manifold does.

 

1. Pressure test the system to verify where it's leaking 100%
2. Spec is .002 warpage on BOTH the cylinder head and the block deck. For a total of .004 max if I remember right, it's in the Rave.... Use a straightedge and a feeler gauge.
3. I spray Copper Coat on the head gaskets for added protection
4. Buy the middle of the road TTY head gasket kit from Lucky 8. 130 or 150 bucks??
5. If the oil pump and timing chain hasn't been inspected, buy them and have on hand for when you tear it down.
6. You can read for days on this forum about how people go about doing this job.

 

ARP studs 100%....seat the studs to snug and back out 1/2 turn....

 

probably can't see now that I've loaded this picture. But right by that o2 sensor plug it was leaking.
But! 2 lines going to the firewall closest one to the camera but on the firewall closest to the engine... i put my hand under it and it had wet coolant all over it. They replaced this clamp with the screw type and it's awkward to get to. I was able to move it and tighten it further. Let the car warm up and didn't see any new coolant running down. So maybe no headgasket?! Although I think the water pump might be leaking 🤔 will double check tomorrow.

 

Had a better picture. You can atleast see where it's wet

 

The area where it’s wet points to that hard line leaking at the manifold. With the truck running look behind the alternator at the connection and see if it’s leaking. It might not be a full on deluge but I bet it’s weeping, dripping to the valley pan and off the back side of the motor. I’ve had this happen 2x.

 

I haven't got to look yet. But when looking around I did notice a small puddle of coolant laying on top of the engine right below the alternator. Another thing someone might be able to answer is...are the 2 exhaust manifolds different styles? I need a driver side. And I'm getting weird search results. They noted a small crack in this manifold and was going to be replaced. And I just so happen to be getting lean codes from both o2 sensors on that side...so I figured that's what's causing it.

 

The TTY bolts work, but these engines expand and contract a lot & they certainly aren't getting any younger. I still use TTY bolts, but if you've got the extra $$$ you can't go wrong with the studs. The older ARP studs didn't have allen heads so getting them seated all the way down into the block was a bit of a PITA. All the ARP studs now all have allen heads so getting them to sit down into the block isn't a problem anymore. I always clean the block threaded holes regardless if I'm using TTY or ARP studs. Clean threads, then use loctite paste on the ARP studs. Make sure the heads are clean where the ARP washers are going to rest. Then install the head, install the ARP studs, then lube up the washer, and install the nuts. I do 25FTLB, let it sit, then 45FTLB, let it sit, then I go to 70/75FTLB and call it good. Some people have done 80FTLB, but I've had no issues with 70/75.

Some people complain with the studs you can't simply lift a head off, but I've just loosened the nuts, then used the allen head to remove the studs. Only other thing is cost, but to me doing a HG and not having to worry about it or do it in as little as 10K is worth it to me. Plus you can re-use the ARP studs unlike TTY bolts which you throw away.

 

“But when looking around I did notice a small puddle of coolant laying on top of the engine right below the alternator”

you do not have a head gasket leak

 

Gocha, that makes sense. Thanks!