i believe the bevel only matter if you are using NOS parts, i dont think it is an issue with aftermarket gears

 

I hope so because the timing cover, water pump and pan are all installed. I don't recall seeing any difference in the outer gear from one side to the other. I was questioning which side faced up so I flipped it over and looked and no obvious difference jumped out at me. I ended up installing it with the side the string was tied on facing up.
EDIT: Just found this thread - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t-40174/page4/ Pretty much what I figured. The bevel just makes room for the machining in the cover. If they spun by hand with the cover on, they're fine and they did do that. A little resistance from all the Vaseline on them but they still spun.

 

The beveled edge on the oil pump gears has been talked about before. I was actual able to go back and find some really good pictures I took when I did my rebuild and covered to topic pretty well in this thread. It might help.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...air-kit-40174/

In the end we confirmed that the EAC gears from AB do in fact have 2 different sides, but after someone emailed EAC directly they said it didn't matter which way it was installed.

 

I installed an EAC and it definitely has a bevel on one side.

About the email from EAC the same guy that said it didn't matter which way it went in also said, in the same email, that both sides were the same and, as we know, they are not. So, he obviously didn't take one out of the box to look before he answered the question.

Here is a copy of his email.

"No, there is not any difference between the two sides, either way round is ok for fitting. The original manufacture type was sintered so this mark may have been to do with that process or as indentification over similar parts, cannot think of any other reason.

Regards

Steve

S. P. Hall

Evolution Automotive Components Ltd."

So, I'm not saying I know for a fact that it matters or don't matter but, I can say that the guy that answered that email is not someone I'd bank my engine on.... since he didn't even know his part has a chamfer.

I put mine in same way as the old ones...chamfer into the pocket/toward the front of the truck.

Maybe it doesn't matter??? I'm guessing if it did we would have heard more about it after the sharp edge cut into some front covers.

 

Got it back together today and fired it up. It sounded like crap at first. What a racket from the valve train, plus I had drained the fuel from the rails, flushed the injectors with cleaner, then drained that so I had some air to purge out. After it quieted down and I cleared the initial codes it threw it still acted strange and had slow throttle response. I drove it down the street and the check engine light came back on. The codes were all misfires from the coil on the drivers side. I managed to squeeze my hand back there and the plug to the coil had come loose. After that it ran perfectly. I only have a mild 2nd degree burn on my forearm from the effort.

Had a weird thing happen though. I took it out on the highway and hammered it pulling into traffic. The engine revved up to about 4,600 rpms then it began to misfire like crazy and run real rough. It smoothed out soon after that though and ran fine, although the SES light had kicked on. The codes were misfire codes from both banks so I must have pumped up the lifters and ended up with the valves open. Pretty wild.

One thing that was nasty that I found was the PCV system. The separator was plugged. I had to drive it out in pieces. That would have definitely added to my oil leaks. It's nice having that cleaned out. It must have improved the vacuum drawn by the engine because I'd swear my brakes feel better.

 

Did you reuse your lifters and pushrods? Just curious. About to tackle the same job on mine and trying to decide how far to go with replacing parts. What machine work did you have done on the heads, just milled them or a valve job as well? Congrats on your successful work.

 

I reused lifters and pushrods. They have about 50,000 miles on them and looked great so I didn't change them out. I've been running Rotella T6 and as far as I can tell it eliminates wear. I know that's not entirely true but all the parts looked like it does. If your lifters are worn to the point that you need to replace them you need a cam as well.


For the heads, I had them cleaned, pressure tested, valves tested for leakage, new stem seals installed, and had then skimmed. They were curved backwards so the edges were up 0.0015". The valves all looked great so I didn't have a valve job done, just cleaned the carbon off the back side. I also had the exhaust manifolds ground and the studs replaced. One of the ports on one of the manifolds was so warped that it didn't even touch the belt when it first got set up.


Using the tty bolts was no issue for me. The bolt holes in my block were almost spotless to start. I didn't use a chaser. I just sprayed them out with brake cleaner then blew them out with air. I checked them all with an old head bolt and I could spin the bolt all the way in with my fingers no effort. I used an angle meter to torque every bolt except the lower ones against the firewall where it wouldn't fit. You could feel the bolt stretch while doing the final 90. They went in nice and smooth. I would imagine an older motor that had been leaking coolant for a while might have nastier bolt holes but for me it was no issue at all.

 

So you put in a new short block and heads at 70K and your already doing head gaskets again 50k later?

 

Has you revved it like that again under load and got the same thing? wondering if they took more than a skim on the heads and you needed shims under the rocker posts? did you check the lifter pre-load?

 

The shortblock was replaced 2 owners ago by LR under warranty, the heads were original but appear to have been cleaned up at that time. I say that because several of the valve springs were installed upside down (they're progressive). Shows you what you can get from a dealer head gasket job.

"Has you revved it like that again under load and got the same thing? wondering if they took more than a skim on the heads and you needed shims under the rocker posts? did you check the lifter pre-load?"


Never noticed it before but I don't think I ever stood on it like that before. The shop only machined off a tiny amount, this guy is really good. You should see this cracked flathead Cadillac head he did a stich repair on. This guy's an artist. He spent $40k for his surface mill. I didn't check the preload as he only took off about 0.0020" and the heads looked like they had never been machined before so I felt I wouldn't likely exceed the tolerance. My guess is some of the grease and vasoline made it by the bypass in the filter and got to the lifters and then had a hard time flowing out. It's runny beautifully since then so I'm not worried