Well I think I fixed it by default.
My Altenator was putting out over 16volts. I was causing my lights pulse. After I replaced it no more misfire and no codes at all for 3 days.


"I have a 97 Disco with 175k on it at 158 I replcased the short block with one with 4k and a set of heads with 75k.
The original engine overheated until it stopped running.The lady drove it with a blown hose.
I reused everything else including wires.
I just replaced the wired with moroso blu max 8mm and a fresh set of champion plugs.
The truck has a hesitation almost like the timing is retarded when I rev it or take off.

The fuel pressure is good. It is throwing the following codes.

P1314
P1313
P0446( I replace the purge valve and no change)

Any ideas??


Thank you "

 

Have you looked at the injectors? If you are sure the plugs are good and the wires are on correctly, I would pull the plugs and see if there is any difference.

Does it run any different when it is cold?

 

It runs the same either way cold or hot, except when my fan clutch went bad and it would run a little warm. After restarting in it would load up and run rich.
I was going to try the sea foam today for the injectors.

Thank you

 

If you want to do it right, Get a set of BG products to do the induction, throttle body and fuel treatment. The BG44K in the tank works best for injectors...

 

P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A
P1314 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B
So, have you ever replaced the 02's, I realize they are not showing a code, but this is truely one issue that can be caused by them.
I would suggest you pull a plug from each bank and see if they are as black as it sounds.
I would as a possible last resort, go out and push it hard, see if you can make the ECU throw a better set of codes, I bet something else may show up.
As for the B&G, great idea, but more for after you get a handle of what is causing your current problems.

 

Thank you,

I will try it all. I just changed the plugs yesterday and the old ones did not look foul, a little black around the edge but clean white electrode.
The O2 sensors have been on my mind to change,just not wanting to drop the $$ if it doesn't fix it.

 

The new sensors, if they aren't the cause of the problem, will give you better power and mileage. They usually need to be changed at 100K

 

I've heard that 90 Nissan's may have used the same O2 sensors as Land Rover.
Anyone heard this?

 

Go to www.roverparts.com They have the best pricing on the direct fit O2 sensors. I would stay away from the others you can find cheaper. You will have to splice the connectors back on, and unless you want to solder and heat shrink all of the wires, they won't be the same. You may not get a good element either....

 

Just installed new NTK O2 sensors. Cleared the codes and drove it for a couple of hours.
The SES flashed and then came back on as always.