When parked, i'm dripping a few drops dialy. I looked underneath and found alot of oil spalttered. I wiped down, drove and took pics from rear VC and underneath where the new oil showed up. All the bolts I can reach are tight. I'm using 10w40...

What do I check next?

Is there a gasket that may need to be replaced?

Maybe a thicker oil will not leak as much...?

 

I had a similar issue and it ended up being the front mainshaft seal on the engine, very hard to notice without taking some of the pulley / fan parts out.

 

1. Valve covers usually leak, and can be snugged up each oil change with an 8mm 12 point 1/4 inch drive socket. Don't torque them down like a head bolt.

2. On top of the valve cover on passenger side is an oil separator that allows the hot oil fumes inside the engine to be sucked off by plenum vacuum and burned in the engine, saving 16.9872 scraggly trees (just my estimate, your actual may vary). If plugged up, the slight pressure causes oil to vent in some places. It can be removed and cleaned or squirted in place with carb cleaner. Pix attached.

3. 10 W 40 is fine, so is 15W40 Rotella and many others. Even 20W50 in some climates in warmer areas. 10 W 30 very thin to start with, not rated for summer operation in most of the US, if you figure temp gets over the mid 90's pretty often. Page from RAVE attached (stands for Rovers A'int Very Economical).

 

Looks like typical valve cover leakage for the most part, but pic #2 worries me a little. Is it just my computer screen or do I see signs of coolant?

 

Thanks for the responses thus far.

I have tighten the VC bolts, though have never checkedthe oil separator, hopefully that solves the major leak. The mainshaft seal sounds extensive.

With the temp's here, i may need to go back to 5w30/40.

photocrimes,
That may be coolant, but from heater core hose repair earlier this year.

 

5W40 would be best.

Front seal can sling oil a good distance. Wipe around it, then re-check in a day or so. Some members make a bandaid repair to limp along until better weather. Clean off with solvent and dry. Finger of RTV, rubbed all the way around. Wait a day to cure. When you crank, it splits into a hair line crack, and will reduce flow. Seal is usually under $5, but swapping it out is another post, many have done it, use the search to find several.

 

First, don't do anything till you power scrub the entire engine, top and bottom so you can track down the leaks. A front seal isn't go to cause that oil leak at the rear of the engine.
Clean the engine and watch it for a day or so and get back to us.

 

And pretty hard for the front seal to get oil high up on the engine....

 

That looked like my leak. X2 on valve cover bolts, I couldn't find a 12 pnt 8mm 1/4 drive. So I used a 8MM wrench.

 

If it dosnt leak oil it's not a land rover.Before you go tighting up all the bolts and nuts, make sure you loosen them up at least quarter of a turn and then torx them to the propper torx.Disco Mike is right power wash your motor so you can see where the leak is.As its coming from the back of the motor it is prob a main oil seal, if you can drop the tranz yourself it is only a $20.00 seal.If the oil isnt pooring out just leave it.