Another Temp Light/ Coolant/ heating thread
#1
Another Temp Light/ Coolant/ heating thread
Hello all-
I've had my 2002 D2 for about a month now. I bought it off criagslist - looked beautiful, 125K, super clean. A week in I discovered the 3 amigos lights covered with electrical tape, but otherwise it's been great.
Leaving nothing to chance, I've been doing the 120K service. It runs fantastic, but there has been an odd thing or 2. I went on a 4 hour drive, no problems. Next morning, I was driving it around my sister's neighboorhood when the temp guage went up, then down, and the light came on. It happened in the space of 5 seconds - it was halfway, it shot up and then almost instantly down. When I poped the hood, coolant was bubbling out. Let it cool, topped it off, everything good. Got a pressure tester, replaced the thermostat, found 2 little drips on hoses, and after leaving it pumped up I noticed that after 2 hours the pressure was down ever so slightly, and there was a dark sppot near the weep hole of the water pump. Order a new water pump.
Double check the coolant level constanly, but over the weekend I was running an errand and it did the spike crash red light dance again. Pull over, let it cool for a few hours, only this time I can't get the light off or the guage to work. The new oil is pristine, it still runs perfect, no codes, but temp guage just doesnt work now. Could the sender be shot? I've followed the bleeding procedure probably 18 times now....
Thanks for your wisdom - I'm going to find a head gasket testerm but I'm 99% sure I dodged a bullet. Needless to say, I had it towed and I'm not driving it until I get the water pump changed....
-rj
I've had my 2002 D2 for about a month now. I bought it off criagslist - looked beautiful, 125K, super clean. A week in I discovered the 3 amigos lights covered with electrical tape, but otherwise it's been great.
Leaving nothing to chance, I've been doing the 120K service. It runs fantastic, but there has been an odd thing or 2. I went on a 4 hour drive, no problems. Next morning, I was driving it around my sister's neighboorhood when the temp guage went up, then down, and the light came on. It happened in the space of 5 seconds - it was halfway, it shot up and then almost instantly down. When I poped the hood, coolant was bubbling out. Let it cool, topped it off, everything good. Got a pressure tester, replaced the thermostat, found 2 little drips on hoses, and after leaving it pumped up I noticed that after 2 hours the pressure was down ever so slightly, and there was a dark sppot near the weep hole of the water pump. Order a new water pump.
Double check the coolant level constanly, but over the weekend I was running an errand and it did the spike crash red light dance again. Pull over, let it cool for a few hours, only this time I can't get the light off or the guage to work. The new oil is pristine, it still runs perfect, no codes, but temp guage just doesnt work now. Could the sender be shot? I've followed the bleeding procedure probably 18 times now....
Thanks for your wisdom - I'm going to find a head gasket testerm but I'm 99% sure I dodged a bullet. Needless to say, I had it towed and I'm not driving it until I get the water pump changed....
-rj
#2
The problem that you have is not unusual, and unfortunately the landrover temperature gauge doesn't help.
Be sure to pressure test when you finish the water pump. Frequently a pressure test will show the weakest link.
The problem with your gauge is either a bad sender unit or its in an air pocket.
That is why your gauge acted like it did, it has to be in water to read.
How high did you go with the pressure test?
ted
Be sure to pressure test when you finish the water pump. Frequently a pressure test will show the weakest link.
The problem with your gauge is either a bad sender unit or its in an air pocket.
That is why your gauge acted like it did, it has to be in water to read.
How high did you go with the pressure test?
ted
Hello all-
I've had my 2002 D2 for about a month now. I bought it off criagslist - looked beautiful, 125K, super clean. A week in I discovered the 3 amigos lights covered with electrical tape, but otherwise it's been great.
Leaving nothing to chance, I've been doing the 120K service. It runs fantastic, but there has been an odd thing or 2. I went on a 4 hour drive, no problems. Next morning, I was driving it around my sister's neighboorhood when the temp guage went up, then down, and the light came on. It happened in the space of 5 seconds - it was halfway, it shot up and then almost instantly down. When I poped the hood, coolant was bubbling out. Let it cool, topped it off, everything good. Got a pressure tester, replaced the thermostat, found 2 little drips on hoses, and after leaving it pumped up I noticed that after 2 hours the pressure was down ever so slightly, and there was a dark sppot near the weep hole of the water pump. Order a new water pump.
Double check the coolant level constanly, but over the weekend I was running an errand and it did the spike crash red light dance again. Pull over, let it cool for a few hours, only this time I can't get the light off or the guage to work. The new oil is pristine, it still runs perfect, no codes, but temp guage just doesnt work now. Could the sender be shot? I've followed the bleeding procedure probably 18 times now....
Thanks for your wisdom - I'm going to find a head gasket testerm but I'm 99% sure I dodged a bullet. Needless to say, I had it towed and I'm not driving it until I get the water pump changed....
-rj
I've had my 2002 D2 for about a month now. I bought it off criagslist - looked beautiful, 125K, super clean. A week in I discovered the 3 amigos lights covered with electrical tape, but otherwise it's been great.
Leaving nothing to chance, I've been doing the 120K service. It runs fantastic, but there has been an odd thing or 2. I went on a 4 hour drive, no problems. Next morning, I was driving it around my sister's neighboorhood when the temp guage went up, then down, and the light came on. It happened in the space of 5 seconds - it was halfway, it shot up and then almost instantly down. When I poped the hood, coolant was bubbling out. Let it cool, topped it off, everything good. Got a pressure tester, replaced the thermostat, found 2 little drips on hoses, and after leaving it pumped up I noticed that after 2 hours the pressure was down ever so slightly, and there was a dark sppot near the weep hole of the water pump. Order a new water pump.
Double check the coolant level constanly, but over the weekend I was running an errand and it did the spike crash red light dance again. Pull over, let it cool for a few hours, only this time I can't get the light off or the guage to work. The new oil is pristine, it still runs perfect, no codes, but temp guage just doesnt work now. Could the sender be shot? I've followed the bleeding procedure probably 18 times now....
Thanks for your wisdom - I'm going to find a head gasket testerm but I'm 99% sure I dodged a bullet. Needless to say, I had it towed and I'm not driving it until I get the water pump changed....
-rj
Last edited by drowssap; 02-22-2016 at 05:15 PM.
#3
I held the presssure at 20 psi-
Hopefully I'll find something conclusive when I tear into it tonight-
-rj
Hopefully I'll find something conclusive when I tear into it tonight-
-rj
The problem that you have is not unusual, and unfortunately the landrover temperature gauge doesn't help.
Be sure to pressure test when you finish the water pump. Frequently a pressure test will show the weakest link.
The problem with your gauge is either a bad sender unit or its in an air pocket.
That is why your gauge acted like it did, it has to be in water to read.
How high did you go with the pressure test?
ted
Be sure to pressure test when you finish the water pump. Frequently a pressure test will show the weakest link.
The problem with your gauge is either a bad sender unit or its in an air pocket.
That is why your gauge acted like it did, it has to be in water to read.
How high did you go with the pressure test?
ted
#4
#5
You should really get an aftermarket gauge to monitor your coolant temperature. The factory gauge is inaccurate to begin with. It basically just has 3 positions, so when it does move to over-heating (on a properly functioning unit) then the coolant has been climbing up to some 230 degrees or so before it ever set the switch. This is a contributing factor to many a failed head gasket...coolant temps operating in the 220's and no signal from the "temp gauge."
When I first bought my D2 with no idea of the quirks, there were a couple of occasions when I saw steam before I saw the temp gauge move.
When I first bought my D2 with no idea of the quirks, there were a couple of occasions when I saw steam before I saw the temp gauge move.
Last edited by chubbs878; 02-22-2016 at 09:27 PM.
#6
I'll have to start checking out gauges- I've always had a obsessive instrumentation bent- I had a ultralight aircraft engine management guage in my old VW
On the happy side, I took the pump off. It is definitely shot, there is no goo or sludge, and the gasket even stuck to the pump side. It's like it's Christmas all over again!
-rj
On the happy side, I took the pump off. It is definitely shot, there is no goo or sludge, and the gasket even stuck to the pump side. It's like it's Christmas all over again!
-rj
#7
You lucked-out on that gasket. Of course it's not a big deal when air compressor and tools are accessible to buff it off the block but I didn't have that luxury stranded in the AutoZone parking lot. I didn't have enough sense to buy an electric version like a Dremel-type; won't make the same mistake again.
FYI: tons of threads suggesting viscous-clutch replacement with new water pump. I have to agree, so if you have the means you should seriously consider this. More often than not, 1 fails shortly after the other. Better to go ahead and upgrade it to heavy duty version for better cooling with summer temps right around the corner
FYI: tons of threads suggesting viscous-clutch replacement with new water pump. I have to agree, so if you have the means you should seriously consider this. More often than not, 1 fails shortly after the other. Better to go ahead and upgrade it to heavy duty version for better cooling with summer temps right around the corner
#8
#9
#10
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