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Old 08-17-2012, 07:09 PM
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Hey All, I'm new to this, but have had two Range Rovers, The Classic, and a 96. Just bought a 2003 from a dealer in NJ, who hosed me. The car arrived over heating, Got that addressed with several thousands of dollars in other fixes. Now I have a ticking when the car gets up to opperational temp. I just had the oil pump changed, thinking that that was the problem. And it was leaking, but had not failed completly. I So I caught that in time too... I think! Also had the water pump replaced at that time. The ticking happens when sitting in traffic. When I give it gas, it disapates/goes away. In fact, sometimes, after it begins to tick, I might pull up to another stop light, and it will be much lighter. It does not begin at a cold start. When I drive for an extended period of time, it gets louder. My "Service Engine Soon" Light is on, and it is coding P0327(Knock Sensor Fault Bank 1 Drive Cycle B:Signal out of range) and P0441.(Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve) which I am much less concerned with, as I can see from the black "duct tape" around the hose going into the Black box on the driver's side, thats why that is jacked up. I guess my question for some LR Guru out there in Cyberspace is, two part: 1)It has been suggested to me that if the knock sensor has failed, as indicated by the code, the sensor it's self can create the ticking. Is this correct? And if so, is it something I can do myself easily? I have tried to locate the part under the bonnet, but can't seem to find it. It's supposed to be by the starter, I think??? The part online looks like it just clips in place on one end, and maybe takes a bolt at the other??? And it books out as a half hour job, but I'm in Pittsburgh, and i cant get any of these Yinzers to figure it out. PART 2: LOL! I am getting ready to take a 1400 mile drive in this wagon to Denver, pulling a trailer, so my HUGE concern is If this is a tappet, or a valve, or a lifter, I could throw a rod pretty easily... Just guessing. And I don't think the Lucus I put inn the engine today is going to help me avoid that... But, if it's just this knock sensor, it seems to me, I can do it, and be on my merry way. Other than the tapping, the engine is running strong! No knocking, no wierd RPM spikes, and it's steady as she goes, middle of the road temp wise now. Oh, and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust either. If i can get to Denver, I know Safarri 4X4 will be able to isolate it, and fix it for a reasonable price. ANY CONSTRUCTIVE FEEDBACK WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... AND THE SOONER THE BETTER! THANKS! I love these cars, and I want to keep it alive!
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:12 PM
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Oh, this is a 2003 Disco SE7 we are talking about.
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:23 PM
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The overheating has caused a steel liner sleeve in the cylinder to go bad and come loose.

When the engine heats up the liner will come loose and slap around.

Loud tick in the middle of the engine.

At idle, the friction of the piston rings can move this liner up and down.
It slaps against the head gasket crown ring and the lower part of the engine.

This is a known engine defect on the 2003 engines.

Since you put so much more money into the engine - you are sort of committed and screwed at the same time.

If you had NOT put money into it - I would demand the dealer buy it back.

Even if you put a few thousand in it - demand the dealer buy it back..

Your other recourse is to have a new engine put in.

take all the new parts - oil pump, water pump and have them put those on the new engine.

Your current engine is ruined.
there is no way to keep the liner in place without extensive work and money.

There is a liner called a top hat liner - but, this entails tearing the whole engine apart - $4,000 to $8,000 or so.


Find a low mileage engine and have it installed.
Sorry.
You got a bum deal.
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:29 PM
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:30 PM
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OMG! I am going to throw up! So driving this anywhere is not happening now, right?
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:54 PM
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So I just got on You-Tube, so I could find what an active slipped sleve sounds like, and while I have the ticking on and of, there is NO clanking like what I saw. Is this Slipped Sleve Syndrome something you would consider to be definative??? Or might the other possibilities still be valid?
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:03 PM
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And the compression test has it testing fine... twice.
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:26 PM
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With them driving it is hard to tell.
If it is a slipped liner dont worry about it, it can do that for 1,000's of years and not have any effect on the engine other than noise.
What motor oil are you using?
Switch to a 10w-40 or 15w-40 and see if the noise goes away.
 
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:38 PM
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My 04 does the same thing. What started sounding like a stuck lifter, but only when warm, has now started to sound almost like rod knock over the last 5000 miles. My plan is to start looking for a used 4.0 , have the block tested, and the liners pinned, then have it rebuilt with the 4.6 crank.
 
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:25 AM
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This is like some crazy 600 level class! And I kind of feel like I'm more interested in getting to the bottom of it than the actual mechanics i've paid to do so. Ninety percent of my knowledge base is coming from this, You Tube, a phone consult with my friends brother, a former LR Mechannic, and what little ability I have to deduce the right course of action from these sources. My friend, an engineer,said The knock sensor makes sense to him, from personal experience with his Subaru, and from a fairly lengthy explanation of what the part does in relation to most moder computer systems... And God knows, from my old Range, these are sophisticated vehicles too. The car has had two synthetic oil changes in a week. I feel dumb, because I just assumed it was 10-30. Today I drained a quart off, and added Lucus, on the recomendation of a buddy who sells used cars. Oh, and when I had the codes read, It was my friends brother, the former LR Mech. who said the Knock sensor could definately be the issue, now creating the tick. Plan: $200 in knock sensor, and see what that looks like, 10W 40 oil change with one quart of Lucus at about 250-500 miles out, listening and watching everything the whole way. I did just drive this wagon 460 miles, round trip, from Pittsburgh to Westfield, PA., on the back side, pulling a 7x12 concessions trailer. The trip was event free, acept for the ticking having come back at the end, and that was whwn I decided to address the oil pump, so at least that was not the problem. Thanks for the feedback, if nothing, it's a bit cathartic, because I get to work through all the stimulis, and use my reason and deduction skills to form, what I think, hope, is a sensable game plan, and wager. All the imput and any additional is welcomed!
 


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