Do not even bother to change the knock sensor.
Waste of money.

A knock sensor will retard the timing if there is pre detonation or a knock
sensed when the cylinder fires.

A detonation sound is a low rap sound - not a tap. And, a pre detonation sound can't be heard when the hood is closed.

The sound you have will grow so loud that you WILL hear it from 20 feet away soon.

Save the $200 and use it toward a new engine.
Don't put ANY more money or time into this engine.

As Spike said - you can drive it.
People do drive them just as they are.

Unfortunately - the overheat you had ruined the engine - to a degree.
In your case - looks like the head gaskets survived.
And, the liner came loose.

This liner loose problem seem to only affect the 2003's. Engine build quality problem or such.

But, you can run around in it.

The other solution is pinning the liner.
This involves a small hole in to the bottom side of the cylinder
and a screw into the hole to keep the liner in place.
Then the liner will not slap around at idle.
Rather involved.
You can't put the screw in too far as it affects the piston.
You MUST have the hole below where the rings travel.
Ideally, the hole should be as low as possible and under the coolant water jackets too.
Delicate work.

And if you get an engine from a junk yard - all you may get is junk - an engine is the same condition. So, you are stuck in a way of getting an engine from a running rover - one you can actually HEAR run and run it until it warms up.

Another option for you may be to put a BMW engine into the Rover.
That would cost a lot and not many people could pull it off but...
The engine will probably bolt up to the transmission as the ZF
4HP22 is also used in BMW's.
I would try to put in a BMW V8 - the 4.0 liter from the 740i.

Just trying to help..
Sorry you got a bum deal

 

Agreed, knock sensor is a waste of money.
DO NOT use the Lucas, if you need a additive then you need a different oil.
The truck came with Castrol 10w-40 from the factory.

Oil additives counter act the properties of the oil, oils are engineered to work a certain way, throw something else in and now the guy's who engineered the oil have been kicked in the *****.

Unless it is a stop leak or seal conditioner all those oil additives do it make the oil thicker and usually zero out the anti wear additives.

 

Thanks, JFall, and Spike! And I get it. I am just now trying to buy time and roughly 2000 miles. LOL. When I change the oil out... for the 3rd time this week. Any thoughts on Master Rover Mechanic's Oil suggestions from "End All To Stupid Oil Questions"??? He says Rotella T 15-40, and... I think it was a Purolator oil filter. Lots of views, and a good number of supporting remarks, especially from Savanah, who seems to know a thing or two also. Pinning is not of interest here. I'd rather go with the new engine, this far into the game, just the same. I don't know about the Beemer idea though. I'm commited to the wagon, but I'm not doing it... Although, it seems to be doing me. LOL!

 

Well read this post at least - https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...highlight=tick

As for Savannah knowing anything, you are confusing verbosity with viscosity....

 

Rotella 15w-40 is what I use, NAPA oil filter though, #1068.

 

If your tick is due to oil pressure low - then
thicker oil and a high volume filter may make it better.

If your tick is due to a sleeve banging up and down - there is nothing you can do except lower the temperature of your engine with a soft spring thermostat and even that will not really help it. A soft spring will drop you about 10 degrees.

You may do well to put a scanner on the OBDII port and see what the temperature of the engine is when the tick shows up.

If you hear the tick equating to when the engine is at the hottest then most likely a sleeve.

The year of your truck coincides with the slipped liner issue.

If you do pin the liner - there are three others which may come loose.
Seems the middle cylinders come loose first.
That is 3,4,5,6 known to tick

But, all this is probably a waste of time.
Need new engine.

 

You don't specifically need a new engine. I have yet to hear of anyone pinning their liners, and it not being succesful. it just depends if you want to do this or not; it is unlikely any mechanic will want to do this.

 

Stop listening to jfall, otherwise you're going to get all worked up. Your engine could be making the sound for any number of reasons, and yes, the later engines do that. Odds are you can drive it for years to come, and the tick may go away. Or go away and come back, then go away, etc.

Do some more searches, reach out to Disco Mike and Savannah, but put the mute on jfall before you stroke out.

 

If your cell phone can record video, then warm it up for 15 minutes via a drive.

Record the sound from different angles and put it on youtube.
Then, put the youtube link onto here so we can hear it.

Man, I just don't want to give you false hope on the engine.
I kept think my head gaskets were not bad - and in the end they were
and I just had to "man up" and deal with it.

You can try everything else - well, why not.
If the noise persists, after all else fails then pin the liner.

What I would do:

1) Rotella oil 15w/40 or some such thick oil.
2) Good high volume oil filter.

Tick remains????

3) Check oil pressure.

Oil pressure 5 lbs at idle -

4) Rebuild bottom end of engine - new main and rod bearings

5) Check oil pressure at idle - should be higher

6) Oil pressure still low - well, you did rebuild the oil pump..

Oil pressure high now..
And tick remains

You need to really verify that tick.
I had driven a 2003 at a dealer.

In the first 5 minutes, hardly a tick at all.
10 minutes - tick is there.
20 to 30 minutes - driven a few miles - tick is loud, loud loud.

If it is a slipped liner - the tick will get progressively louder as the engine gets hotter.

As the engine gets hot, the sleeve will be able to move more easily as the block has expanded.

If your cooling system is keeping your engine really hot - then this may be part of the problem.

Get an OBD scanner and measure the engine temp while the engine is running.

You own a rover now and you should have an OBD II scanner in your glove box or tucked away in the rear cubby boxes.

The Check Engine light will come on eventually. Trust me.


This assumes the tick is from low oil pressure.

MasterRover Mechanic had a good writeup about a tick being solved via a lower engine bearing rebuild. If your tick is just that then you will solve it.

I once had a BMW diesel.
Whereas the motor mounts had sheared the mounting bolts.
The engine was literally resting on pipes and stuff and resting on the frame.
Made on heck of a noise.

Well, I was drilling - trying to get that bolt out of the side of the engine
which was sheared off.

I eventually drilled through into the oil area - above the level of the oil -
but not by much.

The car would not leak oil - but when you drove it - man, did it leak.

I had to drill out a bigger hole and then tap the hole with a tap and drill out the motor mount to handle an oversized bolt.

In the end - it all worked out.

Your issue will too.
Best of luck.

 

did anyone mention the condition of the old oil pump when they took it out? was the outer ring gear broken in several places? You should probably get new hot and cold oil preasure readings.