Wrapping up a big front end restoration project. Literally took it all apart down to the frame, rust treated, repainted everything, new rubber bits, springs, differential, etc. Anyway, I'm just about done and before dropping it off the jack stands, I was thinking about bleeding the brakes, but want to start with the front since it's already up and open. Any downside to doing the front first and then moving onto the back? I've always started with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and worked forward. But ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Rave actually mentions if going from the front first. I've done it either way. Just do each wheel several times until it's solid fluid and no air and you should be fine.

 

I was taught to bleed brakes from the furthest brake caliper (or piston) to the nearest, because the fluid that has to flow furthest will carry most of the bubbles out its tremendous length. Or that was the theory in high school auto shop, anyway. The trouble with that advice was that it was long before anti-lock brakes were invented. Since I now have a Nanocom, I'll be able to exercise the ABS unit to get bubbles out of it too. Same for bleeding the ACE system after I change its filter, since the Nanocom can exercise the roll bar pistons. I'll report back how these operations turn out.

Scott

 

I've gotten into many heated discussions with the Brits while drinking mass quantities of beer about completing this bleeding process. lol
They swear by following the RAVE guidance by starting with the nearest front brake while I've always been trained to bleed the farthest rear brake first.
As long as you don't have squishy brakes, no leaks and they stop, you are good.

 

agreed I do the farthest first, I also lock off the other brakes by clamping the flexi hose with a brake pipe clamp or locking grips, so that the 2 front flexi pipe, then where the rear lines have the flexi between the body and chassis, test the brake peddle it should now be solid, OK now with someone pushing on the pedal, remove the to the farthest rear brake and bleed that caliper, close the bleed nipple peddle should now be solid, continue to the next, rear brake caliper, doing it this way stopes any fluid/debris going into another side of the system, it also confirms flushing out the old fluid. and that you started with a good master cylinder as it was solid if you have a problem it on the one you're bleeding

 

The split is at the ABS box. This takes two peeps: I bleed MC to the box at all four outlet ports, then fronts(because the lines are shorter and I want the air out before doing the long lines}, then rears, then fronts again (as a double check).....

I have yet to try a suction pump, but that may work well for next time....