If the heads were milled too much, even if it seals lower, the ports won't line up correctly.
That's why I suggested marking them like for a port match job. That will show exactly where they come together, either showing that to be the problem, or eliminating it as an issue.

 

I totally agree, I've experienced this with a Jasper short block.

 

If you have the PCV disconnected that is your problem. The crankcase will build pressure and FORCE oil into and out of the engine. You need to clean the baffle and reinstall the PCV. Put a balloon or glove over the oil filler tube while running and make sure it is sucking instead of blowing. You need a vacuum (although a small one - hence the baffle) in the crankcase at all times.

 

I was looking at this procedure on YouTube. Can you clarify what this would tell me? Are you suggesting the ports are so misaligned that it’s possibly allowing oil/air to pass by? Assuming I need the gasket in place as it would need to provide the spacing of the gasket material? Further explanation would be helpful.

None of you are thinking the head alignment dowels having wiggle room is contributing?

 

Right, that would be a problem It’s bypassed temporarily and a breather is in place. I’m trying to isolate any source of oil entering the intake is why I bypassed it.

 

Yes sir, that is correct.
Misalignment of the ports is causing an air and/or oil leak.
Picture looking directly at the front of your bare engine block.
Now picture the heads on, and then the lower intake.
You know that, in theory, the rectangle head ports match up against the rectangle intake ports.
Like 2 doorways, without doors, that line up and are flush against each other.
Now picture the same block, heads and intake from the front, only now, pretend the heads have 1" cut off of their block surface(impossible, yes). But, picture how the heads would now sit so much lower, that the top of the head ports would now be sitting level with about the middle of the intake ports.
That leaves head or intake material on one side, flush against the gasket, and bare gasket to the open port on the other side.
A typical head resurfacing job usually cuts off .020"-.030", do that twice and you can be at .060"+,
which is roughly 1/16", a substantial gap.
I hope I explained that well enough, if not, let me know and I'll try again.
I'm also not saying that is your problem, but it is a possibility. That's why marking to check alignment is an easy way to find out.

As for the dowell pins, they are just for alignment, and to help hold and square the heads as you torque them.
If they were an issue, you would see obvious damage to the pin(s) themselves, or the holes they fit into in the block or heads.

 

Thanks for the feedback and I understand what you are saying. Here’s is the first pan gasket I used from all-makes. Note the impression on the rubberized material. There is some misalignment at the bottom of each port. Not quite 1/8” on the intake side and 1/16” on the head side. But like I said, with the rubber end pieces on, I can’t get the gasket to align nicely with the holes. I tried without the rubber end pieces but couldn’t get a good seal and had an external leak.

 

When you reinstalled the gasket, without both end gaskets, what did you use in their place?
For many years, many engines have had issues with front/rear intake gaskets leaking.
The fix has been to not use them, but to run a thick bead of rtv across the front/rear of the block in their place.
Let it set up for a while and get somewhat firm, but still tacky. Then install the lower intake.
If you have not yet done that, and aren't burned out trying things, that may solve your problem.
I can't tell from the pics exactly how the heads/intake are lining up.
If you have calipers, you could measure from the head surface to whatever you feel is a good reference point on the head, where ever you can get a good flush measurement.
I have the heads I took off my 04 (which I haven't checked, but am near positive are ok, truck ran great, never overheated on me, head gaskets weren't blown, engine just ticked. I found bad cam, main, and rod bearings.)
I also have a set of refurbished heads I bought before removing the old.
I know the refurbished set have been resurfaced.
I am unsure about the other.
Regardless, I am confident both sets are good.
I could measure both sets tonight from your reference points. If indeed yours are cut to much, I would expect to see a .030"+ reading on what you get over what I would get. Allow a guesstimate of .005" varience between calipers.
Let me know if that would help.
If you end up needing heads, you can have my old ones, just pay whatever the shipping would be.

 

I think these are useable as is, but definately good to resurface, lap valves, and install new guides.
I had cylinder misfires and bad MAF sensor codes when I replaced lifters, pushrods before pulling engine for rebuild. Why the intake valves are sooty on those 2.
Otherwise, it ran excellent before, other than the bearings ticking.
122k miles on an 04. Unsure if heads are original, but after seeing a few things disassembling the engine, I'de say it's probably been apart before.

 

Wow! Thanks for the offer. Are the heads set up for SAI? I assume so since ‘04. On the end seals I did just as you suggested but I think I should have put a washer between the block and the clamp as a spacer. It appears the end clamps are designed to apply more pressure at the ends as I can rock the clamp back and forth without the rubber seal in place.

I see some specs in Rave so let me see how that pairs up with my heads once I get it torn down again. I can post the measurements too and see how it matches up with yours.