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Anyone upgrade their Door Speakers recently?

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Old Feb 2, 2025 | 03:30 PM
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CatskilCruiser's Avatar
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Default Anyone upgrade their Door Speakers recently?

Looking to upgrade the front and rear door speakers in my Disco. Wanted to see if anyone tackled this job recently and what is involved removing the 4 door panels and what replacement speakers did you use?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 04:41 PM
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No one?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 06:31 PM
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From your question about removal of the door panels (it's no big deal), it sounds like maybe you don't have manuals. They are available lots of places; here is one. https://extinctmotorsports.com/extin...-manuals-rave/

There are a few threads on here about speakers, but I think they are a bit stale IIRC. I always start at Crutchfield just for their fitment info; I move on from there if I need to.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 08:29 PM
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Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.

I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.

There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.

6.5" Midbass speakers:
Amazon Amazon

3.5" Midrange Drivers:
Amazon Amazon

1" Tweeters:
Amazon Amazon

All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.

Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
 

Last edited by LSDisco; Feb 6, 2025 at 12:37 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LSDisco
Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.

I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.

There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.

6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/

3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S

1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0

All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.

Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
Thx just sent you a PM about the 3D printing! Want to do the same setup you have!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 06:31 PM
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Hi, what sub did you use under the passenger seat?

Did the 3.5" upper door speaker require an adapter?

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LSDisco
Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.

I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.

There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.

6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/

3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S

1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0

All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.

Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
send you a PM. Don't have a 3d printer, so wanted to see if I could buy a set of what I need from you!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 09:14 PM
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LSDisco's Avatar
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Originally Posted by huggi
Hi, what sub did you use under the passenger seat?

Did the 3.5" upper door speaker require an adapter?

Thanks
Here's the sub:
Amazon Amazon
Realistically, any 8" all-in-one subwoofer should fit under the seat just fine.

The 3.5" speakers didn't require any sort of adapter but I did have to expand the speaker hole in the door panel from 2.75" to 3.5" with a dremel.
 

Last edited by LSDisco; Feb 16, 2025 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CatskilCruiser
send you a PM. Don't have a 3d printer, so wanted to see if I could buy a set of what I need from you!
Sorry for the delay, sent ya one back.
 
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Old May 5, 2025 | 03:58 PM
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Any chance you could post the STL files for the adapters? I'd love to upgrade the sounds system! Any improvement for the sub in the swing door?
 
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