Anyone upgrade their Door Speakers recently?
Looking to upgrade the front and rear door speakers in my Disco. Wanted to see if anyone tackled this job recently and what is involved removing the 4 door panels and what replacement speakers did you use?
From your question about removal of the door panels (it's no big deal), it sounds like maybe you don't have manuals. They are available lots of places; here is one. https://extinctmotorsports.com/extin...-manuals-rave/
There are a few threads on here about speakers, but I think they are a bit stale IIRC. I always start at Crutchfield just for their fitment info; I move on from there if I need to.
There are a few threads on here about speakers, but I think they are a bit stale IIRC. I always start at Crutchfield just for their fitment info; I move on from there if I need to.
Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
1" Tweeters:
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
1" Tweeters:
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
Last edited by LSDisco; Feb 6, 2025 at 12:37 AM.
Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S
1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S
1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
Removing the door panels is insanely easy. A couple screws and some clips and they come right off, takes about 2 minutes per door.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S
1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
I replaced all my speakers - 6.5" midbass speakers in the lower part of the door, I converted to 3.5s in the upper door, converted to 1" tweeters in the a-pillar, and installed an 8" sub under the passenger seat.
There's slim pickings for speaker replacements. The upper door and tweeters have no true direct replacement and will require custom work. The doors are easy, just punch the hole out with a rotary tool with a router bit and screw the new ones in. The tweeters are a bit more complicated, I modeled and 3d printed some converters that sit over where the stock tweeters are. I didn't try fitting any 3/4" tweeters but it might be a bit easier to make those work. The lower 6.5"s required that I designed and 3d printed some adapter rings. Important note, the 6.5s are NOT midrange speakers, they're midbass drivers. If you put midrange speakers in there, they will severely detract from the overall sound quality as the stock amp will drive them at frequencies they're not made for. I'm happy to send you the STL files if you have access to a 3d printer to print them with.
6.5" Midbass speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/ORION-CMB65PR...dp/B0CTS1R8N2/
3.5" Midrange Drivers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEV8S
1" Tweeters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786Y0
All driven with the stock amp. It sounds absolutely phenomenal for a budget system. I've been in 100k cars that didn't sound as nice. It was absolutely worth the trouble.
Edit: Also, apart from the speakers themselves, I dynamatted the doors and interior. Cut down on road noise and stopped a lot of rattles/resonance from the subwoofer.
Realistically, any 8" all-in-one subwoofer should fit under the seat just fine.
The 3.5" speakers didn't require any sort of adapter but I did have to expand the speaker hole in the door panel from 2.75" to 3.5" with a dremel.
Last edited by LSDisco; Feb 16, 2025 at 09:15 PM.


