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ARP Stud torque screw up

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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 03:07 PM
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Default ARP Stud torque screw up

I thought the final torque for ARP studs was 70 ft lbs (reading here it looks like most everyone likes 80).
I was mistakenly sent one 14 MM 12 point in the kit (the other 19 were the 16MM 6 point) that I thought I could use but when approaching what I thought was the final torque 3 (70), the nut snapped. It was #8 out of ten I was tightening. So I need some advice.
When the replacement nut come today, would you take it right to 70ft lbs? Once it is to 70 should I follow it up by taking them all to 80 ft lbs? All of the nuts on the drivers side sit at 70 ft lbs so should i also take them all up to 80 as well?
One side note, I was D2 athlete in college 30 years ago and nothing has humbled me more recently than torquing down head bolts LOL
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 03:09 PM
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Call ARP Tech Support. They have some helpful and knowledgeable people. For what it is worth, they told me that 50 was probably enough torque, but 80 is the right number. There is a lot of conflicting info.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
Call ARP Tech Support. They have some helpful and knowledgeable people. For what it is worth, they told me that 50 was probably enough torque, but 80 is the right number. There is a lot of conflicting info.
For the kit I got the ARP web site says 70
Did you go with 80?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 03:33 PM
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If the website says 70...then 70 it should be. If you go an additional 10 pounds of torque...that's substantial...and could cause breakage...in my opinion.

​​​​​​​ Brian.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:23 PM
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I just got off the phone with Zach at ARP he said 70 is the number.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoBuckeye
For the kit I got the ARP web site says 70
Did you go with 80?
My HG job was an ordeal, have your valve seals changed FYI, and I had to do it twice. First hg job 70, second hg job 80. 70 is what the instructions on the Internet say, 80 is what ARP tech support told me.

I had washers slip, freaked out, and talked to ARP three times. 3rd time I spoke to a guy who had been there 20 years, and he was really helpful, as you would expect.

I believe it is ok to back them off and redo, but it really depends on your gaskets, I used all metal cometic and if not ran they can be torqued twice. Other gaskets I do not know about.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:32 PM
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I should add. My valve seals were bad, and my LH Head gasket was pouring oil out from the combustion chamber as unlikely as that sounds.

The RH side did not, and was sealed fine at 70 foot pounds. The tech guy told me that theyare more than likely sealed at 50. So if you have one at 70 I wouldn’t worry about it. I would have had 1 at 70 with an elring gasket and one at 80 with cometic gasket had the shop not had me change both heads valve seals which had dried out/leaked.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
I should add. My valve seals were bad, and my LH Head gasket was pouring oil out from the combustion chamber as unlikely as that sounds.

The RH side did not, and was sealed fine at 70 foot pounds. The tech guy told me that theyare more than likely sealed at 50. So if you have one at 70 I wouldn’t worry about it. I would have had 1 at 70 with an elring gasket and one at 80 with cometic gasket had the shop not had me change both heads valve seals which had dried out/leaked.
I am up to speed with your thread so I knew your issues(well some of them anyway ). My heads were both redone.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoBuckeye
I am up to speed with your thread so I knew your issues(well some of them anyway ). My heads were both redone.
I hope yours takes !
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 08:23 PM
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Me too
 
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