I'll pull the plugs this weekend. No idea what the plug or leads are.
how do i test the leads, coil, distributor, etc?

Ignition timing will need to be done at a shop - don't have the tools or knowhow!
Tyre pressure is good 36 psi X4.

Fuel is the same - i can try and hunt down zero ethanol but that is short term as soon everyone will be 10% - law.

Also only one refinery in each state - it might say Mobil at the pump but it came from the Caltex refinery. so not really any difference between brands - only old dirty fuel or new clean fuel, depending how popular the station is.
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Live sex

 

I dont know how it works over there but here in the US the fuel may all come from the same distributor but they put the different additives in the tanker trailer before they take it to the gas station.
So while Joe's Gas-N-Go and the Shell station both get their fuels from J&H Oil (a gas, diesel and bulk oil distributor here where I live) Joe's fuel has no additives but the Shell fuel does.
Each truck load is mixed to the customers specs.
So you get what you pay for.
Personally I use Shell gas (93 octane) 98% of the time and I get 15mpg as a daily driver.

 

Do you think the valve seating could have anything to do with it. It is an old truck and never had any head work done at all.

How to I test the leads etc?
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WETDREAMZ cam

 

have you done the seafoam treatment yet? if not then you are due.
as usual see one of discomike's stickys for instructions...

speaking of that; mike, have you ever thought of putting together a disco bible? like a compalation of your posts/stickies? hell, id buy it.

 

Yeah Done!
the equivelant here is a SUBARU Upper Engine Clean (Induction Clean), you can't buy Seafoam here.
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Vaporizer.Net

 

Cranky,
If your engine starts instantly, runs strong, I don't think you have any major issues like valves, piston rings, etc.

If you or your mechanic pulls your spark plugs after idling for any extended period (5-10 mins), you can expect them to be sooty Indicating a rich run.

I recommend that you pull up, shut it off, remove plugs & check.
Write down all details as you may forget something.

Since you have a distributor, have the mechanic check your vacuum advance throughout the normal operating range.

If he's (she's) any good, it'll be easy with just a timing light.
The marks should NOT wander as he's checking (worn distributor)
He should check under load, you in car in drive, foot on brake & giving gas (checks vacuum advance).

that can seriously affect mileage while you feel truck is running great.

ethanol & mpg don't like each other

Bad plugs, wires usually affect smooth idle & under load - usually.

All the other stuff can certainly wreck your fuel consumption, but I think you'd have other symptoms and I get the impression you would know that.

Given your stated level of ability, I'd recommend a couple of beers with your favorite mech and have him/her tutor you.

luck,greg

 

sounds like a plan.
starts after 3 or 4 cranks, idle is smooth, runs strong (well stronger than when I had a mechanic looking after it).

timing is the major culprit by the sound of it.


I've done a bit of work myself with a good success rate:

• replaced shocks all round
• replaced fan clutch
• induction clean
• new fluids engine, gearbox, transfer box, diffs & hubs.
• touble shooting CC - thats got me for now!

Should I just spend 50 bucks on a timing light and have a go?
No friendly mechanics 'round these parts!
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Fabiana live

 

UPDATE
The plugs are black with soot

They are NGK R BPR5EY - not the right plug. all the info I found on them is for small engines!

The cables are some FML brand - not too old (<10k) but at least one of the plug covers is cracked.

So if I go out and buy some decent cables & plugs will that solve the problem? I'm thinking maybe poor spark is causing the soot build up and the poor milage.

I'm having trouble justifying the timing going out by itself. Does this happen?

Also no O2 sensor in the exhaust line - not on this model anyway.
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Karynxxx cam

 

If only one or two plugs in a set are black, it is a good practice to check for sticking valves, if all are black then you are running to rich and it can be an air intake problem, vacuum leak, fuel injectors, or the wires. you want to make sure you have the problem nailed down before you get some bosch +4 plugs and some 8mm magnecors. otherwise you will just ruin the nice new plugs. the 8mm wires handle the heat that our engines disperse so very well.

 

I personally don't think timing is it. If the truck is running strong, it is firing right. If the T-body is clean, chances are it is getting and reading the right mixture of fuel. I would throw some 8MM magnacor wires and either Bosch +4 plugs or the stock Champion replacements. The regular 7MM wires don't handle the heat from the engine as well.