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Battery or alternator? + 2 misc q's

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Old 08-15-2009, 03:24 PM
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Red face Battery or alternator? + 2 misc q's

Good day everyone. Having some issues with my 02 D2 with <60k. The vehicle had been running fine up until 2 weeks ago after sitting in the hot sun for 2 days the truck would crank(not sure if thats right word) but not turn over. Had it towed into dealership and the diagnosis was faulty crankshaft sensor.. $400 later with new crankshaft sensor my baby was running strong again. 1.5 weeks after that (3 days ago) i noticed my truck having a hard time starting, when I got home I turned her off and she would not start again.. just clicking... i made sure the clamps were tight on the terminals.. still not starting. It will start after a jump and run fine. Im in the process of pricing batteries ( i found the recent thread on this) and looking at diehard gold, and the duralast gold.. I use my truck for daily driving only. Do you guys think its a dead battery problem or the alternator? If so I can just replace the battery in my driveway, if not im gonna have to have it towed to dealership for the alternator.

Random note: After jumping and while revving I can hear what sounds like running water from the passenger side of my truck.. there is no sign of water in the floorboard or anywhere I can see ... but my coolant level is really low all of a sudden.

Misc Q #1. I did a half arsed coolant flush last fall... was my first attempt at service on my truck.. My main problem was that I didnt unclamp the major hose from the radiator. What kind of tool do I need to get those pain in the butt factory clamps off the hoses and where can I buy replacement clamps that can be tightened with a screwdriver.

Misc Q#2. As preventative maintenance I purchased the Tom Woods driveshaft last year. Im ashamed to say that I havent greased it 1 time yet. I did purchase a grease gun and I just read the recent thread on the TW driveshaft. My question is where and what do I grease? I dont even know what a zerk looks like. I understan dthe ball needs to be grease but I dont have the faintest on dropping the shaft to do this.. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any advise on my D2 issues.
 
  #2  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:41 PM
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Take your battery to Autozone and have it tested. If it is running on its own after a jumpstart it is most likely a bad battery (assuming you have good clean connections). However they will charge it, then test it for free. Get back to us after you do that.

1. Cut these factory clamps off and purchase same size ones while you are also at autozone.

2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_fitting I don't know anything specific about the TW driveshaft. Put the grease gun on the zerk nipple and give it a couple pumps.

If there's some sort of procedure for the TW shaft someone will chime in shortly.
 
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Old 08-15-2009, 04:47 PM
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Vise grips work well on the land rover spring loaded hose clamps.
 
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:24 PM
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This is what a grease zerk looks like.
It is the "nipple" in the pic.



I am voting on a bad battery.
You do not need to go to the dealer for all of your work, any shop can work on these trucks.
 
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:50 PM
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If you don't have real deep pockets, I would stop driving that truck till you fix a few things.
You have a coolant leak causing the water noise, when did you last check and add coolant?
Go it it pressure tested on your way to your local auto parts stores where you are going to get your battery/alternator checked
 
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:19 PM
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Tightening the terminals are the battery isn't enough. You need to check all the connections from the battery to the starter to the ground and back to the battery. They all have to be in good shape.
If you do replace your terminals, get good ones. The mil-spec are the best, IMO.
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Whatever you do, don't get these pieces of crap I see on way too many cars.
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As for your propshaft, if you haven't lubed it in a year, you probably should rebuild at the least the double cardan end. If you aren't going to lube it, and at every oil change, you're better off with sealed u-joints, they'll last longer. A TW propshaft isn't magic, it's just heavier duty, but is subject to the same things that kill the OEM.
You need more than a "couple pumps" of the grease gun. You need to see new grease coming out from around all four seals on each u-joint. However many pumps that takes. Though if it takes more than 5 or 6 you probably need to pull the propshaft out and work it some.
 
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