Either the crank turns or...

 

Measure or take it to a shop and have them measure. Doesn’t matter who branded the bearings. All will be to spec and there’s only a hand full of bearing mfg’s anyway just branded differently. Land Rover sells bearings but Land Rover doesn’t manufacture bearings.

 

That came from common sense and some previous experience or knowledge?


Pretty sound advice. If the crank/rods rotates it's an indication there's enough clearance for some oil and should be adequate. That's all you are supposed to do per the manual.

You can still use a plastigauge to verify the crush is greater than .001 and would see if you have a gigantic clearance. I wouldn't get too hung up on trying to have .00059 as just about all other similar engine minimum clearance specs are higher.
.....

 

It means what it says.
I have a hard time beliving a simple, non hi revving, non hi performance engine, needs such a tight tolerance.
I could type whatever I want for qualifications of my opinion on that, and it would be worth what?
I will be plasti-gaging it, which was my plan all along, only I was expecting around .002", and readable, not a quarter of that, silly me.

 

Actually, I'm going to use a bore gage.
I was hoping to plastigage and be done.
After finding the tolerances are so tight, I need to make sure it's right.
...I work in QC for a production machine shop

 

Take pics!


This might be one of the few times outside the factory that anyone has seriously measured such on these motors.

 

Also, if you are going to this extreme hopefully you have verified the flatness of the block and heads.

 

Sixpack, if you have the facility to gauge the bores, the primary object is to check they are within limits and also very importantly the ovality particularly at the bottom of the bores but also check all the way to the top longitudinally, laterally and diagonally. Also check the pistons similarly for ovality. Also check the top of the block for flatness, initially with feeler gauges and a straight edge and then using an 'I' beam shaped section straight edge, slider and mag block with a dial gauge for mega accuracy. Have fun, good luck.

https://th.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/223005158073/

https://www.ebay.com/p/Mitutoyo-513-...unt/1401651478

 

Block deck is square/flat.
Bores are 3.7000-3.7003
Pistons are 3.6996-3.6999
New cam bearings and freeze plugs.
All 8 cylinder liners have been pinned; drilled, tapped, loc-tited, I just need to safety wire them.
Don't have a big enough bore gage to borrow from work, so I ordered a 2"-6"
I will take it to work and have it calibrated.
Heads are resurfaced, valves lapped, new guides and seals, spring heigth checked.
Cam/crank gears look new, have new timing chain, new lifters, pushrods, rocker shafts, and rocker arms are good as well.
Just waiting on the bore gage, and warmer weather.
Assembling engine in garage with heat...Disco is outside.
Lots to do, lots to come.
I will start a build thread with all of it.
Pics below of pinned block.

 

I would double check that spec for yourself. The only specs I see that tight are at the low end of a range and the ranges are a lot wider than what was posted here