Taking advantage of the shelter in place mandate to do some work on the Disco.

New coil packs and wires
New con rod bearings
New windshield, lower cowl, A pillar covers

Probably going to start the new motor build next week...

 

Nice, good luck with the motor build. Are you re-building your existing motor or starting with a different one to rebuild?

 

Good luck! Just did my bearings, timing kit, oil pump and a heap of seals and o-rings. I'm also hoping to build an engine, buy a used one and send the block/rods and crank to Turner and build up from there. What's your engine build plan? Quite looking forward, never built a v8 before! Nice to have a spare when the non-top hat engine gives up.

 

Tony, how bad were your con rod bearings?

 

Not as bad as I thought - but it did quiet down quite a bit upon cold start. Still have some clacking going on for about 30 sec when cold (maybe a little piston slap), but nice and quiet when up to temp. Oil pressure was always good, and I had replaced the rod and main bearings once already a couple of years ago. Second time torquing the rod bolts down so I’m a little nervous about that - good excuse to start the new build if something happens...

 

I was able to score a replacement 4.0 block reworked with top hat liners and new cam bearings, 4.6 rods and 4.0 pistons with new pins, a machined 4.6 crank (-10), and a set of rebuilt heads with slightly larger intake valves (the stuff in my signature). I was planning on using my existing Crower cam, lifters, push rods, and rockers that I installed a couple of years ago, but I'm now thinking of going new with all of that too. The "problem" is, that at almost 250K, the original motor runs great - quiet, good compression, and oil pressure. Granted, everything has been replaced or rebuilt on the motor except for pistons/rings, cam bearings, rear main seal, and injectors. I'm just kicking myself in the *** is that I didn't replace the leaking rear main seal when I swapped out the transmission and t-case a few of months ago.

 

Probably not the rear main seal leaking, Extinct has a post showing why with the design of the rear cap and a relife/drain in it(and it makes sense when you see it), and that it's the cruciform seals that are leaking.
Those can be replaced just by dropping the oil pan and rear main cap.
And, use the Bearmach brand, as they have the full cross oem design, the Allmakes do not.

 

I did see that thread, and you're probably right. When I recently had the pan off for the rod bearings, the flywheel looked really clean. If the rear main were leaking, I would have expected there to be at least some oil on it. I cannot remember if I had the full cross seals when I did the main bearings, but I already have the full cross deals on hand for the new build.

 

Note the line where the babbit has stopped, haven't mic'd these yet but wear is apparent with tip of finger.

Rhys Legge

 

I didn’t have any scoring. Babbit was gone and copper was showing in a few spots on some of the bearings. Journals looked good.