Best Modifications for 4X4 dependability
Mudding
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Canterbury, CT
But depending on the mileage on your truck I would advise these things:
1) Check your tie rods/track rods, if bad replace. Terrafirma and Britpart sell affordable tie rod HD kits with everything you need and they have a zinc coating on them
2) Check your steering damper. Again an inexpensive part offered by TerraFirma.
3) Check all your bushings. If you've got over 100K on your truck then they might be wearing and and starting to fail.
4) Invest in a new crankshaft position sensor and some die-electric sealant. Your factory sensor WILL **** the bed soon and if you plan on doing any light water crossing in your truck or take it to the car wash for that matter, you risk finnishing it off. When you replace it invest in a pair of super long needle noise pliers (will make your life so much easier) and apply the die-electric sealant in the electrical terminals before connecting it. Doing so will make your sensor resistant to water entry in the future.
5) Change out all your fluids: your diffs, transfer case, get a transmission flush and replace the filter etc. Your old fluids will start breaking down and lose the lubricating properties, so you want to ensure your lubs are keeping all the mechanical gears lubed before doing any off-roading.
6) If your using the stock thermostat then you are strongly advised to replace it as it will reduce your engine tempatures. I do believe that engine temps actually increase while off-roading and these engines already have problems with overheating as it is. Buy a grey 180 Thermostate from Rovers North $89? and easy to install.
7) Check your brakes and lines make sure they have enough thickness left. If your doing any steep hill climbs or desending a steep slope, you will want to have good breaks!
8) If you plan on driving through narrow trails and between large rocks and trees, then you will want to think about rock sliders to protect your door panels and front and rear light guards to protect your lights from swinging branches.
1) Check your tie rods/track rods, if bad replace. Terrafirma and Britpart sell affordable tie rod HD kits with everything you need and they have a zinc coating on them
2) Check your steering damper. Again an inexpensive part offered by TerraFirma.
3) Check all your bushings. If you've got over 100K on your truck then they might be wearing and and starting to fail.
4) Invest in a new crankshaft position sensor and some die-electric sealant. Your factory sensor WILL **** the bed soon and if you plan on doing any light water crossing in your truck or take it to the car wash for that matter, you risk finnishing it off. When you replace it invest in a pair of super long needle noise pliers (will make your life so much easier) and apply the die-electric sealant in the electrical terminals before connecting it. Doing so will make your sensor resistant to water entry in the future.
5) Change out all your fluids: your diffs, transfer case, get a transmission flush and replace the filter etc. Your old fluids will start breaking down and lose the lubricating properties, so you want to ensure your lubs are keeping all the mechanical gears lubed before doing any off-roading.
6) If your using the stock thermostat then you are strongly advised to replace it as it will reduce your engine tempatures. I do believe that engine temps actually increase while off-roading and these engines already have problems with overheating as it is. Buy a grey 180 Thermostate from Rovers North $89? and easy to install.
7) Check your brakes and lines make sure they have enough thickness left. If your doing any steep hill climbs or desending a steep slope, you will want to have good breaks!
8) If you plan on driving through narrow trails and between large rocks and trees, then you will want to think about rock sliders to protect your door panels and front and rear light guards to protect your lights from swinging branches.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Wow I didn't think I'd get this many responses! Thanks for the input and knowledge. I should've started by saying that I'm maintaining this vehicle myself and on a very strict budget. I'm at least 5 months away from affording tires and suspension, let alone what I'll need to repair before then.
I've always known the disco to be very capable stock and wouldn't need any upgrades for most anything i'm looking to do. The lockers sound like they're a bit more than what I need. The most important thing for me is to know that it's in top running condition and that I have the know how to fix any on trail problems. Now onto the preventative maintenance.
How would I check the first 3 items listed by TRIARII?
Thank you again,
Mike
I've always known the disco to be very capable stock and wouldn't need any upgrades for most anything i'm looking to do. The lockers sound like they're a bit more than what I need. The most important thing for me is to know that it's in top running condition and that I have the know how to fix any on trail problems. Now onto the preventative maintenance.
How would I check the first 3 items listed by TRIARII?
Thank you again,
Mike
Three Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 77
Likes: 4
From: South Carolina
Wiggle your suspension components back and forth looking for any play in the tierods or bushes. When you do your suspension its best just Togo ahead and replace your bushes as well.
Id go ahead and replace your steering damper since you plan on roading a bit.
Id go ahead and replace your steering damper since you plan on roading a bit.
TReK
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,167
Likes: 87
Yup
I'm not really sure about the bushings but my guess would be to examine each of them, look for cracks or any other signs that they are going. As for the steering damper, well in some cases you may notice some minor vibration while driving but in my case I just did not like how ****ty my stock damper looked so I decided that with 130K on it, now was a great time to replace it. For the tie rod ends Lift the front up on jack stands and try to wiggle the wheels, or go have a mechanic examine it. I did not realize mine were bad until I went for a state inspection, my truck failed because the tie rods were bad. Inspection stations check tie rods as standard procedure since its considered safety.
Heres what my old damper looked like:
and my new damper complete with the HD tie rod kit:
Good luck man.
Heres what my old damper looked like:
and my new damper complete with the HD tie rod kit:
Good luck man.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 180
Likes: 9
Lots of great stuff.
Do the maintenance before the "fun" off-road accessories.
A few points not mentioned (or I missed them):
1: COOLING SYSTEM! Do it all, and do it now! Everything, rubber, hoses, TD5 180F T-stat kit is a must!, new radiator, water pump, new fan clutch, etc. While your there, do the serpentine belt. Don't want to overheat in the middle of nowhere! So, that also means your FIRST aftermarket accessory should be an ULTRAGUAGE to monitor coolant temps.
2: When you start considering lockers (this should be AFTER brush guards, bumpers (especially rear), rock sliders, and CDL kit), determine what level of wheeling you want. If you want a full locker, such as ARB, plan on buying HD axle shafts. As was mentioned one of the "good things that make an excellent off-roader" is strong axles. Well, the stock Disco has relatively weak axles. If you put lockers on the stock shafts you risk busting an axle and destroying your locker.
Consider true-trac geared limited slip. I've grown up with moderate wheeling, doing Moab's Moab Rim and Golden Spike in everything from a K5 Jimmy to a stock ZJ, to a fully locked Wrangler, and I'm considering True-Tracs front and rear on the disco mainly due to cost per performance. I've never done those trails with true-tracs, but it seems like a capable combination. The beauty of the limited slip? They will generally slip before the axle over-loads and fails. And IF it fails, reports claim that that true-trac is not damaged.
So I intend to save $2k and go the true-trac route. If budget is not an option, HD axle shafts with ARBs front-and-rear would be a formidable rock-crawling combination.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Do the maintenance before the "fun" off-road accessories.
A few points not mentioned (or I missed them):
1: COOLING SYSTEM! Do it all, and do it now! Everything, rubber, hoses, TD5 180F T-stat kit is a must!, new radiator, water pump, new fan clutch, etc. While your there, do the serpentine belt. Don't want to overheat in the middle of nowhere! So, that also means your FIRST aftermarket accessory should be an ULTRAGUAGE to monitor coolant temps.
2: When you start considering lockers (this should be AFTER brush guards, bumpers (especially rear), rock sliders, and CDL kit), determine what level of wheeling you want. If you want a full locker, such as ARB, plan on buying HD axle shafts. As was mentioned one of the "good things that make an excellent off-roader" is strong axles. Well, the stock Disco has relatively weak axles. If you put lockers on the stock shafts you risk busting an axle and destroying your locker.
Consider true-trac geared limited slip. I've grown up with moderate wheeling, doing Moab's Moab Rim and Golden Spike in everything from a K5 Jimmy to a stock ZJ, to a fully locked Wrangler, and I'm considering True-Tracs front and rear on the disco mainly due to cost per performance. I've never done those trails with true-tracs, but it seems like a capable combination. The beauty of the limited slip? They will generally slip before the axle over-loads and fails. And IF it fails, reports claim that that true-trac is not damaged.
So I intend to save $2k and go the true-trac route. If budget is not an option, HD axle shafts with ARBs front-and-rear would be a formidable rock-crawling combination.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Thanks for the input on the cooling system. I just ordered an Ultra Gauge today so I'm excited and also worried to see what it'll tell me. I didn't grow up working on cars so all this is very new but I love working with my hands. I'm really enjoying this forum and all the help. You guys rock! (A horrible pun, I apologize, I'm better than that!)
As you suggested working on the coolant system is the best way to avoid overheating. Once I receive the Ultra Gauge, what coolant temps should I be looking for so I don't overheat? It's my biggest worry here in AZ. Any extra parts I should have with me at all times incase?
Mike
As you suggested working on the coolant system is the best way to avoid overheating. Once I receive the Ultra Gauge, what coolant temps should I be looking for so I don't overheat? It's my biggest worry here in AZ. Any extra parts I should have with me at all times incase?
Mike
Last edited by Dweller in the Desert; Dec 16, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 446
Likes: 3
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
But yeah, I carry 2 bottles of peak 50/50 with me at all times. It has come in handy.
Last edited by ScreamingLife; Dec 17, 2013 at 08:50 PM.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 180
Likes: 9
With a 180 stat (and that's a must), I would not expect the ultraguage to read over 200F, unless you are doing serious rock crawling in the heat with the AC on. Even then probably not above 215.
I'm not completely finished with my overhaul (just did the T-stat mod) and I can run 188.6 all day long. It can go up to 197 at idle, mainly because I noticed my electric AC fan just crapped out (at least it waited until winter instead of the summer).
If you have the stock stat, you will be above 200F. Your first mod (after the ultraguage) should be a 180F T-stat, I suggest the Land Rover TD5 diesel version, but others use Moterrad which is a bit cheaper.
I'm not completely finished with my overhaul (just did the T-stat mod) and I can run 188.6 all day long. It can go up to 197 at idle, mainly because I noticed my electric AC fan just crapped out (at least it waited until winter instead of the summer).
If you have the stock stat, you will be above 200F. Your first mod (after the ultraguage) should be a 180F T-stat, I suggest the Land Rover TD5 diesel version, but others use Moterrad which is a bit cheaper.