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Big Plans This Weekend (Need Advice!)

Old Feb 5, 2021 | 09:18 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Tcase fluid is very easy, wait until afternoon after a few beers for the joints. Beer = power

btw.
that’s one mean looking dog
I agree, that's why we're starting with everything else. If we're still standing by the time we're done with that, the ball joints should be a breeze.

looks mean, but is a total panzy. Husky/GSD mutt.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 06:38 AM
  #12  
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Knee pads.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 07:42 AM
  #13  
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Fluid hand pump for filling the t-case and transmission. Creeper and ramps for scooting around underneath, unless it's on a lift.
You may need to purchase a 12-point 8mm 1/4" drive socket (or 3/8" drive deep socket) in order to do the rocker covers. It's an unusual piece of equipment, even for a well-stocked workshop.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 08:32 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
Fluid hand pump for filling the t-case and transmission. Creeper and ramps for scooting around underneath, unless it's on a lift.
You may need to purchase a 12-point 8mm 1/4" drive socket (or 3/8" drive deep socket) in order to do the rocker covers. It's an unusual piece of equipment, even for a well-stocked workshop.

second the hand pump for the T-Case and Transmission.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 10:42 AM
  #15  
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If his friend has a "fully loaded shop" he more than likely has a fluid pump. Likely a better one than most of us make do with.

The only thing I would question about what you are doing is the tie rod end. The OE drag link and track bar are kind of flimsy, and if one tie rod end is bad (drag link) more than likely the other two are as well (track bar). When I discovered the tie rod ends on my truck were bad I bought and installed the heavy duty drag link and track bar replacements.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2021 | 06:39 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mln01
If his friend has a "fully loaded shop" he more than likely has a fluid pump. Likely a better one than most of us make do with.

The only thing I would question about what you are doing is the tie rod end. The OE drag link and track bar are kind of flimsy, and if one tie rod end is bad (drag link) more than likely the other two are as well (track bar). When I discovered the tie rod ends on my truck were bad I bought and installed the heavy duty drag link and track bar replacements.
Correct, he’s got a fluid pump and pretty much any other tool we’ll need. I’ll have to check out that 12-point 8mm driver.

I got the tie rod end based on my buddies recommendation after he gave it a once over. I’ll ask about the track bars while we’re down there Monday and see what his opinion is.

thanks!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 12:13 PM
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how did this go
 
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 12:30 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
how did this go
So far, so bad. Haha took the Valve covers off to find a complete mess of gunk and roasted oil. So far I’ve only successfully changed the diffs and t-case oil, put in the new spark plugs, replaced the air filter, and installed a PCV Valve while removing the old oil separator and flushing the tubes for Best4x4’s PCV mod recommendation.

I’ve scrubbed the valve covers themselves about as good as they’ll get, any tips on doing the rockers themselves? Preferably one that doesn’t require removal and retiming.







 
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 12:33 PM
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Unbolt those rockers and clean them outside of the engine. There's no timing necessary with hydraulic tappets. Best not to rotate the engine while they're off, just to be on the safe side.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 01:35 PM
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I agree with mollusc. Just remove the rocker arms and get them cleaned up off the engine. Maybe your friend with the garage has a good parts cleaning setup.

Just keep track of which side each rocker arm came from. They are identical when manufactured, but I would recommend putting them back on the side they came from. Same with the pushrods. I drill holes In a 2 x 4 to keep the pushrods in order.
 
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