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Bit of info on generic o2 sensors I bought today

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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 02:17 AM
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Default Bit of info on generic o2 sensors I bought today

Well, we'll see how this goes. Picked up two "Standard" SG300 sensors at autozoo today at 57$ each, on the shelf. There are TWO styles with that same part number but only one has the "dome" looking thing on the end.. that's the right one. Wire colors match up so no guessing there and they are the proper "titania" type. Got a 22mm o2 socket, the sort with the whole side cut out of it, and an offset, leveraged protrusion which accepts a 3/8 ratchet head, used a combo wrench for increased leverage, and with this style of socket you can turn the ratchet upside down if it makes things easier, and it did, which is how I know ;-) The connectors were easy to get off and apart, each from the top, draped over the engine bay. They just "hang" on a hook of sorts and a tiny screw driver poked IN to the TOP portion of the connector in a tiny horizontal slot, press inward into the connector body then lift, they slide right off. Then pull the cable up a few inches so you can get at them better to separate them.... now sqeeze the tang on the BOTTOM part of the connector with fingers and they slip apart. Seriously, this r'nt hard.

The "splice" is included with the sensor and it is VERY well designed. It uses "posi-lock" connectors which are secured by threads and are better than the best "butt connectors". The whole thing has 8 rubber seals which look like they will actually work, too. Wrapped the whole thing in some scotch brand elect tape and holy S... I didn't know they made black tape that good, you could make an inner tube out of that stuff! It's called "liner-less" whatever that means, anyway then I coated it all in permatex liquid tape. I'm confident that this splice is now the most secure electrical connection on the entire car by far, submersion proof.

Anyway, don't run out and buy these yet cuz they're not installed yet see, update tomorrow. Btw this is a 99 II and doing this because I got a "no signal bank 1 blah blah, rich condition bank 1 and 2, amf code, misfire multiple cyl. Weird cuz he car runs awesome.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 06:24 AM
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From: Boston Strong
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stock plug and play are only $50.00 on amazon, i would have suggested returning those and use stock replacements.
 

Last edited by drowssap; Apr 9, 2014 at 07:10 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
stock plug and play are only $50.00 on amazon, i would suggest returning those and use stock replacements.

Which ones are the "stock" ones on amazon? This is on my project list as the front 2 are throwing codes.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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From: Boston Strong
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Bosch
also the tool they sell that looks like a crows foot works exceptional well
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:13 AM
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x2 on bosch for the O2's. you can buy the O2 sensor socket- pretty cheap, or even just rent one at auto zoo or advanceded auto stuff. got mine done with a combination of lots of extensions while working from the top and the fine adjustments in/out while working from underneath. pretty straightforward project.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:42 AM
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Where to buy in Canada?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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I could have had them for 30$ if I'd wanted to wait a couple days, once in a while it's nice to just drive a few blocks and have what you need in your hand.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 06:32 PM
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Auto Parts in Canada! - Canada Auto Parts Online

Fast delivery - decent prices
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:23 PM
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Take those back.
No splicing wires.

Of course in Canada you get ripped off for it but...

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_nos...er%20discovery
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:15 PM
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Got rid of my "rich, bank 1 and 2" and "no signal from o2 sensor 1A" but still have 030 305 447 and 102. Will do comp and vacuum test... I clear the codes and run it for hours at a time without the check engine light coming on, then immediately after shutting off the codes will come up. I suppose it's possible that splicing works fine on MOST cars.
 
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