Well, if you want some help, PM me your number and I'll walk you thru what to do or check.

 

I think someone recommended using a turkey baster to get as much of the old out prior to starting.

i plan on doing this, after i get off my butt and order some SS break lines from Justin... I don't see a point in doing it until I replace.

 

Thanks. Plenty of fluid has been flush properly and the ABS module responds to scan tool, yet the pedal feels like my old fiat, which leads to the booster. Booster has vacuum, but hard pedal is present. I'm picking up one at a salvage yard after lunch.

In the meantime, I stripped the frickin plastic gears inside the drivers side mirror! Lucky me.

 

how does one bleed the module?
Or, will it not need bleed if one starts at the farthest wheel and simply bleeds for clear fluid?

Will the module self bleed if the wheels are bleed correctly?

 

Update and summery on the brakes... after rebuilding the master cylinder and doing Shuttle Valve repair B, bench bleeding everything, and then manual bleeding the system and then forcing the ABS system to bleed (with the scan tool), my tech was left with a hard brake that felt like the booster was shot. We swapped it out with a spare, and gained some brake pressure, but still had a "hard" pedal. They bled the system more, and still haven't had much of an improvement. There is vacuum, and the check valve was even replaced.

Unfortunately, they have had to work on it as they have had time, and this has stumped even my partner (who is a BMW tech). I need to get this truck up and running, as I wan't to get it sold so I can buy another Rover (sick, I know).

So, what say yee, forum?

 

Ouch.
Well my brakes are just a tad mushy but they work!
Maybe I will leave them alone after hearing all the steps which may lead me to make them worse.
I am down here in cement / BMW land in So CAL

Hardly ever see Discovery here.
Do see RICH people in new Range Rovers.

 

I carried out the shuttle valve repair - I found the wiring had been messed with by a previous owner and one of the cap screws holding the switches was cross threaded. Fitted the new valves and new seals. That was fine. I bled the brakes the old fashioned way with a jar and tube and lots of ****ty fluid came out of Right rear.

Pedal is now rock solid. switched off the 3 amigos but they come back on after about 100yds. Before they come on the ABS works fine on gravel. I bled the brakes without the engine running as I always have done.

Any ideas?

 

What codes are coming out of the brake scan tool?
That would be a huge help to know the results of those codes.
Can you put those codes in your next post?

I have yet to attempt bleeding my brakes.
I do seem to have air as I can pump them up and get good brakes with very high pedal when I pump them up.

 

It is like a game of pass the parcel. When I got the disco it was the left rear wheel sensor. Replaced that with a full overlay harness. Shuttle valve kept reporting problems but in the winter it behaved due to the viscosity of the oil I believe. So now I have repaired the shuttle valve and the codes now say I have a faulty RH wheel sensor. But at least the brakes are better that they have ever been - and last year the Landrover dealer bled them on their machine and they always had one pump to get them hard. They must not have passed enough fluid through judging by what came out. It was very cloudy and had a few bits of dirt in too.

 

fellas,
i also replaced right caliper along with new rotors and pads
bled and flushed with dot 4, right side brakes front and rear seem to be dragging
rotors are getting hot, but the left stays cool
hmmmm