Warning - no one agrees with this method of bleeding

 

I agree that I don't agree lol

 

Or you can just open the hose connections, and pull forward, and wait on bubbles to stop.....

 

Did just that to start with after I flushed the heater core and blew out the tap water. You can't get the heater core completely full this way because the outlet port is below the top of the heater core. I made a cheesey sketch showing what I mean. The air above the outlet level can't be displaced by gravity alone.

"Or you can just open the hose connections, and pull forward, and wait on bubbles to stop..... " Did that too only without the boat but that didn't get it all either.

My much maligned piinch and surge technique seemed to be the most effective of all the things I tried, but there was still some air trapped in the core. I probably just need to get the thing out and run it with the engine above 2,500 rpms for a while to get the rate of coolant flow up and force the air out. I haven't had a chance to drive it any distance on the highway so I'll give that a try.

 

you worry to much just go drive it, it will work its self out. that is why you check it the next few following mornings

 

It seems so at this point. I'm just worried about air pockets moving around in the cooling system. I'm not too psyched about the thought of overheating this thing.

 

the air should go to the recovery tank eventualy that is its purpose, to purge air.

 

Go off road and drive up a steep ditch, keep the passenger front corner at the high point and do your high idle speed for a few minutes, that usually finds the last of them.

 

And here I've been trying to stay out of the ditches. Anyway, seems like I got rid of the last of the "waterfall." Took it for a 25 mile trip at 75 to 80 mph and the sound is now gone. Having never emptied the heater core before, I was worried about what would happen as that air bubble moved into the rest of the cooling system but the temp gauge stayed around 190 for hte entire trip and the heat was working awesome so I should be all set. Maybe one more check at the bleed screw and I'll be done with mopping up green stuff for a while.

For anyone that replaces a heater core or empties it by blowing it out, when you refill the system follow the standard bleeding procedure and then take it out and drive it like you stole it to purge the last bit of air from the heater core. Pinching off the heater core return hose and releasing it emptied the bulk of the air but running it on the highway finished the job.

 

What is important is that the bubbles not return....