I've been pulling motors out of these yards since I was 18, 45 now, saves me money and most of the time they just bolt right in.

One of them had 80,000 miles on it few months ago, the engine had new heads on it. The front driveshaft had smashed the trans, so I bet that engine would have lasted a long time.
Unless you're buying a brand new block, you're just going to wind up with just about the same thing only spend allot more money.

 

Shane,

Thanks for the insight. I too have been wrenching for a few too many years and at 51 yrs of age I just want to put it in once and be done. Sure, I can pull an engine @ the "local to me" pullapart (200 miles round trip) with unknown mileage and drop it in my truck, Easy Peazy. Then two weeks farther down the road having to ****** it back out for the same issues I have with my present engine.
End result, I have $250 plus dollars (Atlanta Georgia cost), times how many times do I want to R&R an engine. No thanks.
Unless I can see verified mileage, engine temps and engine noise after an hour or so running, I will not be putting in a used engine.

Right now I'm gonna back away from it and see what develops. Its in the garage all clean and dry waiting for an opportunity to fall into my lap.

More to come at a future date.

 

So, wanting a second opinion on my 4.6 block, I took it to another engine builder in my area.

Per his inspection, I have three cylinders that are beyond maximum spec.
He has recommended, due to cost, that I allow him to hone, not bore, the cylinders to accept a set of 0.20 oversize pistons. I found a set at Rimmer Brothers for less than $500.

So, If I go this route I could have a short block ready for assembly for less than $1K, after selling my top hat liners on to someone who can use them.

I consider this option due to; 1) my block wasn't leaking water at the time of disassembly, and 2) the cylinder liners have been pinned to mitigate movement. My major concern with this is overheating due to an thinner liner after the hone job and new rings and pistons.

Has anyone gone this route? if so, please share your experience.

 

I would think that if .020" over pistons are sold, that heating wouldn't be an issue.
Not that it isn't a legitement concern(and not trying to be a smartass either).

 

And, since aluminum disapates heat much faster than steel, and the cylinder walls would be thinner, taking less time for them to get hot, and heat to transfer through them, that with a good cooling system, you should be ok.

 

Should be no problem, .020 is barely any material off. I would go for it.

 

I personally would not spend the time and money on rebuilding an engine without putting top hat liners in, doubly so if you need to bore the cylinders, making already very thin walls even thinner. Liner movement isn't really the issue, the issue is cracking behind the liner into the water jacket

But that's me. I pray to the rover gods that I never have to pull the engine ever again.

" I just want to put it in once and be done" -- sounds like a good reason to do flanged sleeves to me.

 

Hello all,

It's been quite a while since I posted on this thread so I thought I'd give an update. To review, I was chasing the ticking noise and had already replaced the entire valve train with exception to the actual valves and heads. I did new lifters, rocker arms, push rods, rocker shafts, brand new front cover with oil pump, as well as cam and cam bearings. The crank was checked and was well within the wear limits. I had no over heat issue, just low oil pressure and the tick.

Fast forward to about a month ago. I had the block honed to .020 over size and picked up a set of pistons from Rimmer Bros. To save myself some time, I had the machine shop reassemble the short block for me.

Over the last few days I put the engine back together and reinstalled it in the truck. Guess what....? Yup, still ticking and idles with less than 10 psi oil pressure. Yes, I packed the pump full of engine assembly lube, Yes, I did fill the oil filter prior to installation and I used 15w40 Rotella.
I'm at a loss here now.

WTF!!!

 

Can you post a video of the ticking?

 

I was in a situation like this when the mechanic and machine show said one of the holes was "under specs". Some idiot had ground it down to far. They said they I needed a new one. Instead I got new heads from a Junkyard and had them take the black off without grinding any metal. It's been fine (knock on wood) ever since. The main issue is keeping the engines cool.

You can only do that with distilled water + wetter or purple ice (or water and antifreeze if you live in northern climates) with an authentic grey T-stat or inline T-stat (if you live in Tropical or Desert climates) with LARGE aftermarket radiator with fans + new tubing.

The guys who did this from the get go claim they never had a head job.

The temp is what messes everything up. NEVER use Orange Dex cool and if a scum bag mechanic gives you lip about it not being "by the book" argue with him and/or WALK. The book is what gives them all their repeat business. These websites have PROVEN what works and what doesn't with trail and error. And it's discovered the "book" is just like Land Rovers infamous engineering - SEVERELY FLAWED.

You either have the money or you don't. If you don't then you could do what I did back when I was poor. Otherwise you should buy a new short block.

On top of all this you MUST make sure the engine runs cool. You want it at 180-185 never over 200 ideally. That's the jist of what I've learned reading on these websites.