Hello Roverers!

My 2002 Disco S2 SE been having some issues with the AC. The typical sudden stop of the blower with it's on and off 'till it finally stopped for good.
I've pulled out the blower many times, cleaned it up following the excellent write up found around here, and have even connected it directly to the battery and seems to work just fine.
As soon as back in its place and everything is connected and fastened, it may work for a while, although not up to speed, until it just stops working.
Occasionally comes back to life, but you cannot feel it blow, just barely.
Today I pulled out the glove-box, turned it on and stuck my hand in there, you feel it rotating softly when on high, not as fast as when connected directly to the batt. If you bring it to low it will stop, but if you give it a push it will start.
Took out the resistor and it was fairly cleaned after being there for all these years. No signs of anything faulty. Tried to measure it, but not sure if doing it right, so will post pics of what I connected where and what it read, in case this can help rule out the resistor.
Terminals and cables seem to be OK, nothing burnt, melted or loose.
Dunno where else to look, any pointers will be greatly appreciated, summer is coming and it gets nasty down here in SoFla, thanks!

 

Under dash fuse panel most likely needs to be replaced. That's what cured mine

 

...the entire fuse panel? how did you come to that conclusion?

 

I'm going to say it's the white connector by the blower itself. You have the blue connector that the blower has to actually connect to the electronics and then clipped on the right side of the blower pack you have another connector (white or faded light brown) that goes up to the relay for the blower. It is VERY common for that connector to get hot and for the internal connections at the plug to fail. You can either cut and splice using but connectors or use blade connectors, but I think that is your issue not the resistor, blower, or the fuse block.

I just had this issue with my $500.00 wonder that I traced it down by wiggling the connectors and it would go on/off. I then had trouble unplugging it and once I did it was badly melted on one side of the connector. Repaired the connection and boom I was back in business.

 

The fuse panel going is actually quite common. Moisture gets in and corrodes the boards and stuff will at first intermittently work, then just not work altogether.

My motor would spin, then shut off then on again. Eventually it just crapped out. I checked the fuse and it was fine, the transistor pack rarely has issues since it's solid state. Checked for power at the motor connectors and had nothing, while sometimes it would show up.

So start with power at the motor lead connector? Do you have 12v there? If your fan needs a bump to start directly off the battery, it's done. Needs to be replaced. It should spin at max speed and accelerate to that speed within 2 seconds of having 12v supply. Speed controller isn't a resistor, it's a solid state transistor power supply. Chances of it crapping out are close to zero. To test, try cycling through fan speeds, you'll see voltage change at the motor leads. Check for voltage at the fuse as well, I'd actually start here. If there's no voltage across the fuse holder then you won't have power at the motor.

Keep in mind one thing. My panel was toast but would give me voltage readings across the fuse. But once there was a load attached, the board would open and the connection and voltage would be lost. I eliminated all the other parts one by one until I found the fuse panel boards would open under load.

1. Check fuse
2. Check fuse for voltage across the holder
3. Check for voltage at the motor lead connector (if it's brown it needs to be fixed, common)
4. Check motor directly to a 12v source, should spin hard and fast almost immediately

Lastly, make sure if there is voltage at the leads, to cycle through the fan speeds to check for the power pack operation.

Let me know what you find.

 

...yes, the blower turns on with no problem when connected directly to the batt. No other electrical issues are present, at least I don't think they are related (driver window dead, driver lumbar support not working, front passenger seat rise and lumbar support not working), although did find 25 lighter fuse blown. ;-]#

 

Edited my post with what I just had on my 500.00 wonder and it certainly could be your issue. I forgot all about that common little weak spot. Check that connector and let us know. It's thicker gauge wire on one side vs the other. It actually was the same style connector on the 06-10 H3 Hummer that issued a recall 2 years ago that had a few H3's go up in smoke due to the wiring shorting out and causing a fire.

 

...which connector are you talking about?

 

If you have the lower dash cover off, you’ll be staring straight at the blower. It has a blue 2pin connector. Now off to the right of the blower and usually held onto the blower pack assembly itself is another 2pin connector, this one is white/off white. One side goes into a harness up to the blower relay, and the other side if I’m not mistaken leads to the blue 2pin on the blower or the resistor.

Check it & chances are it’s melted & not causing a good contact.










P.S. Sorry for my nasty looking hands, but I’ve got a case of hand/foot/mouth from my little one.

 

I would also suggest the underdash fuse box, drivers side. The blower fuse connect suffers from a cracked solder connection. Some people take the fusebox apart and resolder, some replace it, some bypass it by connecting an inline fuse to the input and output wire. Look for the threads on blower fuse.