I am blowing fuse # 21 15a everytime I place my 2003 Disco in park. Which I no longer do.
It starts and every thing seems ok but can not shift out of park. Although I do have a party pack of cheap 15a's for when I forget. Use the shifter lock detent button when out of fuses. Emergency brake holding well but I afraid I'm wearing it out. Sometimes I'll place in park on an steep incline for extra holding power(?) and waste a fuse.
A long long time lurker, most of what I've learned about D2's was here. The rest on the road or trail side. LOL
Any body else had this problem?

 

I would check the wiring to the XYZ switch. There is probably a short to ground in that circuit somewhere. Look for chewed or melted wires.
Edit: After looking at the electrical diagrams, Fuse 21 goes to the HI/Neutral/LO alarm that sounds on a Non-NAS or the transfer case interlock solenoid on the NAS. ( I believe you will need to remove the center console to get this.)

 

Thanks for the quick reply JoshD.
Last time I had it partly lose I found about $5.00 in change!!
Does any one know any tricks for removing the shifter ball?

 

I'd actually check all 3 of your brake light bulbs. If one has shorted... could cause your issue. I've also seen instances where the rear ladder was installed, and the wiring got wrapped around the drill bit when installing and eventually shorts out inside the rear tail door... and starts blowing fuses when you step on the brake ....

 

OK Thanks Nashvegas
All are working. It does seem like when this all started besides the fuse 21, fuse 25 was also blown and I had no brake lights. Happened a few times. It must of been an easy fix, I can not remember what I did to fix. LOL This has been going on for a long time now. Seems like it was the brake switch at the pedal.
The #25 fuse and brake lights have been working fine. Could it still be that circuit somehow acting wonky?

Any tricks for removing the shifter ***? I understand it takes brute force. I'm scared I'll take out the windshield when it lets go.

 

I can’t imagine that you are “wearing out” your parking brake, brake wear is caused by motion wearing down the friction surface, so as long as your truck isn’t moving while the parking brake is on it should last basically forever. As far as tricks to getting the shifter **** out, well just don’t have your face right above the **** when pulling, you won’t break the windshield but you could still smack your face pretty good! I think (if memory serves) you should also be in neutral when you remove the **** so that you can more easily remove the shifter bezel.

 

That's good to hear Greisinb. Although I wish I could say that I never started moving with out releasing the brake 1st. It's kinda muscle memory now though.
Do you believe that maybe leaving in reverse with e-brake would give it more holding power on a steep incline?

 

That’s a good question, initially I would say keep it in first because that gear ratio is better (2.48 for 1st, 2.09 for reverse) but I don’t know if the force from the drivetrain will transmit through the torque converter “backwards” enough for it to matter, I’m not knowledgeable about the details on how that works (although now I have something interesting to look up). If it does work your best bet would be to put it in 1st and low range.

 

I try to avoid the steep incline situation but sometimes unavoidable. When scary i block a tire. lol

 

Does it blow the fuse in neutral, too? Fuse 21 (pass compartment) runs the interlocks for the shifter and 4Low. The 4Low interlock would be activated by both Park and Neutral, I believe, so you could have a short at the solenoid interlock for the transfer case.