I picked up a '99 series II last week. It just rolled over 75K miles and I was able to get it for $6k so I think I came out alright. The seller was pretty good about documenting the maintenance, but he did admit when his wife drove it she put in regular gas. It has the rear jump seats and moon roofs, but not the rear air or ACE. I have A LOT of questions but I'll just start with a few for now.

1. I wired in a 4 prong connector for trailer lights but can only get turn and running lights to work..no brake lights..yeah I know I need a diode in there. Here is a write up from a guy that made his work with a wal-mart trailer light kit...possible? http://www.discoweb.org/trailerwire/index.htm

2. passenger door does not auto unlock. I can hear it trying to but sounds weak. What is the most common solution?

 

Do yourself a favor and buy the wire harness set up from Atlantic British if you want it to work well the first time.
As for your door lock actuator, you could try opening up the door panel and lubing the lock system, but most likely you will need a new one. Go to, http://www.roverlandparts.com/ and buy yourself a good guaranteed used part.
If you want to run by many things that should be looked at you might want to e-mail me your tele number and a good time for me to call you.

 

I agree with Mike on both things. The harness can also be bought from E-bay. ATB sells them on there in auctions all the time. Also, you can get a used lock actuator on E-bay as well. I got 2 from spuliup or something for $15 a piece. One was broken and they sent me another no questions asked.

 

Mike, thanks for the offer I might have to take you up on that. Right now I'm trying to fix that door lock problem. The door lock actuator is getting power so I believe it has gone bad. How do you get these things out?? They are wedged behide the window rail.

 

It appears to me that you have to remove the intake manifold before removing valve covers...somebody say it isn't so.

 

I was able to get it out and bench tested it. It is bad. I only see the series I lock actuator on ebay...Does anybody know where I might find one cheaper than $95 at roverlandparts? If I have to buy it there i will..just want to make sure it's my only option before ordering.

 

RE: Intake manifold and valve covers.

Yup, the manifold needs to come off. There is, obviously, a gasket for it that needs to be replaced during the procedure. There is also an O-Ring in the cooling system that should be replaced when you take the IM off. In order to take the valve covers off you will need a 8mm, 12 point, 1/4" drive socket. I only mention that because I had stripped the engine down and didn't have that one socket for the valve covers and had to go find one to finish. [:@] Also, when replacing the valve covers, get new bolts. The inside and outside are different and you will need a total of four of each size.

Hope it helps and welcome to the wonderful world of Rovers.

 

I'm not even sure if I have a 8mm 12 point, luckily I found a 8mm 12 point boxed end wrench to use. The bolts were a little loose. I hope this stops the leak, but I doubt it will.